Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI

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Lil Demon said:
I've used the Tanks Inc on many customer's cars and it is more labor intensive as it comes in a hundred pieces and even though it is application specific. The specific part ends at the tank all other parts are universal so just more involved. On my current build I wasn't in the mood for all the time needed for the Tanks Inc setup so I went with the Aeromotive setup. Very much worth it in my opinion. Just verify you have the proper fittings and it's pretty much connect, plug and play.
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Gen 1 Aeromotive or the Gen 2 Aeromotive tank?
 
Hope this helps. Aeromotive does use a Tanks Inc tank but it comes fully assembled.

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Lil Demon said:
Hope this helps. Aeromotive does use a Tanks Inc tank but it comes fully assembled.

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Ah Ok, that's the Gen 1 tank. Any issues with the hoses or anything? I mean, I've heard that with the hoses attached, some people had to add more matting between the tank and the body in order to act as a "spacer" because the hoses would hit the body (trunk floor) due to the fuel pump sticking up a bit too high. Is there truth to that?
 
JoesEdge said:
Ah Ok, that's the Gen 1 tank. Any issues with the hoses or anything? I mean, I've heard that with the hoses attached, some people had to add more matting between the tank and the body in order to act as a "spacer" because the hoses would hit the body (trunk floor) due to the fuel pump sticking up a bit too high. Is there truth to that?
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Not at all, pump sits just below the tank surface and i had absolutely no issues with hoses getting anywhere near interfering
 
I just went and snapped this pic for you. As you can see there’s plenty of clearance and you can even read the logo on top of the pump indicating the clearance available. It’s a great quality product which made my life a lot easier that day.

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Lil Demon said:
I just went and snapped this pic for you. As you can see there’s plenty of clearance and you can even read the logo on top of the pump indicating the clearance available. It’s a great quality product which made my life a lot easier that day.

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Awesome!! Thanks!! I see you have new straps too. Man that looks so good it's a shame to hide it under the car!

I also see the filter, and it seems that you went with hard lines for at least the return line from what I can see. I also see how you tee'd the vent from the tank and the vent from the fuel pump into the roll over valve (I think that's what it's called) This really helps!
 
Thank you, hard aluminum lines all the way to the front. Just make sure you isolate them well from vibration and or rubbing and you should be good. I chose aluminum cause it's just so much easier to work with than steel lines.

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Mopar73340 said:
Having seen both the tanks inc pump/tank vs the Aeromotive, the Aeromotive has a more robust mounting flange and the pump is much quieter. This is comparing the 200+- tanks vs the 340 Aeromotive. I’m currently waiting on the Gen 2 tank for an e-body with the 200 pump but may decide to go with a gen1 340 again if they don’t get one produced shortly.

You will also have to use the distributor that comes with the pro flo EFI.
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Thank you
 
Guys, where did you hook the pink ignition switch wire? -71 Duster so brown and dark blue tr are the sw-ignition wires, which one is "RUN" and which is "start"?? Does it work if I just splice and hook those three together?


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Dusterfreak said:
Guys, where did you hook the pink ignition switch wire? -71 Duster so brown and dark blue tr are the sw-ignition wires, which one is "RUN" and which is "start"?? Does it work if I just splice and hook those three together?


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Yes, that's what most have been doing and I did the same. If you have soldering equipment even better.
 
Dusterfreak said:
Guys, where did you hook the pink ignition switch wire? -71 Duster so brown and dark blue tr are the sw-ignition wires, which one is "RUN" and which is "start"?? Does it work if I just splice and hook those three together?


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Ok, I was probably way overthinking and complicating this, but I put diodes off the dk blue and br wire, went to an inertial switch, then to a relay which powered the pink wire. Seems to work, I got an additional safety feature and the cars ignition still follows Ma Mopars pathways.
 
Thanks, I was going to put a diod on the brown wire. Im also doing a magnum swap and Im going to use Jeep alternator so thats a little more complicating than i thought. Seems that the jeep alternator needs a external regulator.
 
I just might be ditching the Fitech TBI unit for one of these.

Reason is: I have just had Sooooo many problems with this Fitech unit. Customer service doesn't help. It starts and runs for a short time...then just dies. RPM gauge on the handheld shows RPM at 58,788. Just fed up with it. Yes it is wired correctly, oh well. If you read on the internet....lots of people reporting the same problems with the Fitech unit.
 
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Backally said:
Ok, I was probably way overthinking and complicating this, but I put diodes off the dk blue and br wire, went to an inertial switch, then to a relay which powered the pink wire. Seems to work, I got an additional safety feature and the cars ignition still follows Ma Mopars pathways.
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Do you have a diagram of how you wired it up with the diodes and inertial switch?
 
Mopar73340 said:
Having seen both the tanks inc pump/tank vs the Aeromotive, the Aeromotive has a more robust mounting flange and the pump is much quieter. This is comparing the 200+- tanks vs the 340 Aeromotive. I’m currently waiting on the Gen 2 tank for an e-body with the 200 pump but may decide to go with a gen1 340 again if they don’t get one produced shortly.

You will also have to use the distributor that comes with the pro flo EFI.
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flashsuperstar said:
Thank you
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As an update since it’s been a while, I got tired of waiting for aeromotive to have the new 200 gph tank and pump ready so I ended up using the Gen 1 tank again. All is well and the pro flo 4 is working good so far. Still doing some tweaking and getting used to the software differences from the Pro Flo 3.

Anyone who ends up using Areomotive’s Gen2 tank please post up your thoughts.

On another note, I also used the Blue and Brown wires feeding the ballast resistor for the pink wire. On the Pro Flo 3 the voltage had to stay above 10.5 volts to the pink wire under cranking conditions in order for the system to start. Not sure if the Pro Flo 4 is the same or not so I wired it the same as I did the Pro Flo 3 through a relay fed from the starter relay positive stud. So far no issues with starting either one.
 
Alex5280 said:
System arrived. I'll probably post all the install pics over on my build thread:
A 1974 Duster - My 2nd one, 41 years later!

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Very nice, I believe that Edelbrock may have been looking to improve this but two things to check, clearance around the distributor cutout and valve cover clearance at the injector risers. Distributor clearance is easy to fix with a die grinder, the valve covers and / or risers are likely to need a bit of surgery though. I had my risers milled back as far as I dared and I’ve just got clearance now. Not sure how you’ll do your linkages but I bought the Edelbrock 8041 as it appeared to accommodate a cable type kickdown nicely, which it does with my Bouchillion Kit.
I hadn’t thought about powder coating mine, are you going for a clear finish? I’d be interested to see how it comes out!
 
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