Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI

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Dusterfreak said:
No they were actually brand new, but I soaked them so bad trying to get it running that they didnt fire anymore. I also noticed that I have 35lb/hr injectors but the setup wizard didn't give that option because I gave engine size 318, I had to change it to 340 to get to choose the correct injector. Bet that will cause rich AFR because the smaller injector should be open longer than the bigger.
Rear axle is still a work in progress.. So hopefully Ill be on the road in couple of weeks. Thanks to corona, I have time to spent in the shop, no where to go except the carage.
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Good to thing to hear that you go it figured out. I guess Corona is working out for the Hot Rodders staying at home. Unfortunately for me, due to Corona I'm not spending money on the Duster because that's not an essential spend right now. I'm actually at work right now though.
 
Yes, seems like it would be a good time NOT to spent all the money in the car, but I have done it allready, and now its mostly work that this one needs.
 
As I mentioned earlier, you can always use the chart at the back of the instructions to find and load the next leaner map if necessary or use fuel modifiers in the advanced tuning section to take some fuel away if still rich. (Remember that learning doesn’t occur until it’s up to 170*) and it goes into closed loop.
I have fuel subtracted from mine in advanced tuning at idle and in the amount of crank fuel.

Glad you were able to get it running again.
 
Finally got a chance to work on my pro-flo 3 again. Got it running and thus far really dig it! Have to fix a brake line leak before I can take it out though
 
Finn said:
Finally got a chance to work on my pro-flo 3 again. Got it running and thus far really dig it! Have to fix a brake line leak before I can take it out though
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Sweet! If Fall Fling happens, you should take it there. Let's cross our fingers there will be a Fall Fling this year.
 
I'm looking to install this on my la 318, it says I have to use 340 heads?
My Dart is a street cruiser.
Can I get away with larger valves on my 318 heads ?
If not it seems like a lot of work to use 340 heads as the setup between a 318 and 340 is a lot different.
 
Their website lists 318-360. Don’t know why you would need 340 heads unless they are considering port size???
 
Just got my Pro-Flo 4 set up on my 505 motor. Fired right up. I did have to send away for the next size up injectors (42lbs) but its $100 upgrade fee if you upgrade before you use the stock ones.
 
Mopar73340 said:
I believe there should be some technical information or instructions provided if asked for to explain system parameters and how the settings change said parameters. There are multiple parameters to set but no explanation of how exactly they affect the system.
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Not to sound like a dick but have you read the small pamphlet that came with your kit that literally tells you what each parameter does and suggestions for adjustment based on any issues you're having?
 
fulltank said:
I'm looking to install this on my la 318, it says I have to use 340 heads?
My Dart is a street cruiser.
Can I get away with larger valves on my 318 heads ?
If not it seems like a lot of work to use 340 heads as the setup between a 318 and 340 is a lot different.
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They say the kit is for 318-360 but I dont know how the big intake ports would work with the small 318 heads.
 
Cal Tonsley said:
As delivered the ports are smaller than 340-360, I had to get mine opened up a lot to get to Felpro 1213 size!
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They are small. Not looking forward to amount of porting I'll have to do to manifold. Does anybody have small port 318 intake gasket they could match up and take a pic?
 
mechanicmark said:
They are small. Not looking forward to amount of porting I'll have to do to manifold. Does anybody have small port 318 intake gasket they could match up and take a pic?
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Not sure if I'm misunderstanding, but are you saying that the ports on the Super Victor EFI manifold are small? Are they really smaller than the ports on a 340/360 factory heads? Are you using gaskets to measure this? I would be very surprised since the Super Victor is touted a high performance intake manifold.
 
Yes. The gasket matched ports on my strip dominator are much bigger. Edelbrock claims "plenty of material for port matching." They right about that.
 
Has anyone had any backfire problems? Mine starts to backfire and hesitate when the throttle is over 20% open, and I cant step it WOT at all. Other than that, It works like a charm in idle and runs great with just a touch on the gas pedal.
 
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Dusterfreak said:
Has anyone had any backfire problems? Mine starts to backfire and hesitate when the throttle is over 20% open, and I cant step it WOT at all. Other than that, It works like a charm in idle and runs great with just a touch on the gas pedal.
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SOUNDS LIKE A TIMING OR ELECTRICAL PROBLEM , NEW ENGINE ??
 
My friend has a dyno, so we decided to spend a few hours to find out whats happening. And seems that I need a bigger cam, engine can take only 30.25 initial timing. And I think thats because of my 8.3 dynamic compression. But, it pulls strong to 6000 and Hp is rising all the way, torque curve is flat from 3200 to 5200.
 
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Dusterfreak said:
My friend has a dyno, so we decided to spend a few hours to find out whats happening. And seems that I need a bigger cam, engine can take only 30.25 initial timing. And I think thats because of my 8.3 dynamic compression. But, it pulls strong to 6000 and Hp is rising all the way, torque curve is flat from 3200 to 5200.
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I've always been confused on how to arrive at dynamic compression. It's something regarding how much compression is left after the cam bleeds some off. So, where do you want to be? Some where around 8.0 or a tad less? What are you cam specs now?
 
Too much dynamic compression means too much cylinder pressure, too much pressure means pinging. I think around 8 would be max for Iron heads. This is what I have now Hughes Engines
....And this is what Hughes suggested
Hughes Engines
But, I have to say that the EFI works amazingly!
 
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Rather than start a new thread I hope I can get some help here from those who have already installed and tuned the PF4. I have mine installed and as some have said the Edelbrock forum is not overtly helpful when trying to find answers to tuning questions. Especially on Small block Mopars.

My setup.
1969 340 bored 60 over with stock type sealed power cast flat tops 4 four valve reliefs that come slightly out of the bore. stock forged bottom end
Heads are older proform speedpro for a 340 so they have the open chamber piston relief area like the Eddy performers for a 340. they are advertised at 65cc. with 1.6 roller rockers.
Cam is the following.
Make:
Chrysler
All timing components are brand new. Billet double roller timing chain with magnum tensioner, new intermediate shaft, new cam, cam bearings, rockers, lifters, valve springs and rattler balancer.

355 true trac 8 3/4 rear in a pro touring setup 67 coronet. ( I know B body) but you A body guys tend to not be as rigid when it comes to things like EFI, so there is more knowledge here than on FBBO.
Engine:
340 "LA" Mopar
RPM Range:
2000 to 6000
Camshaft Type:
Hydraulic Roller
Intake Valve Lift:
.520" rocker adjusted .554
Exhaust Valve Lift:
.515" rocker adjusted .549
Advertised Intake Duration:
282°
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
286°
Intake Duration @ .050":
229°
Exhaust Duration @ .050":
233°
Lobe Separation:
110°
Intake Centerline:
106°

Proflo4 is setup with 35lb injector and i have tried 43 and 58 psi with the same issues.

Issues:

First off with this particular cam I find it damn near impossible to set the timing at 12@ at 750 rpm which is step numero uno in the setup.(timing bounces around to much at that RPM but if I rev it to 1000 I can get it to hold the 12@ so thats where I am at on step 1. For step 2 I am at a loss I cant seem to get the IAC below 50%. I have tried removing the throttle cable, I have tried the bump it down and turn the key off in small increments but I can only seem to go so far with this method before RPM creeps up and the IAC starts going back the other way. Any tips here would be great to start?

I have been able to get the car to idle quiet nicely but its driving that I find issue with. The best tune I have worked out so far was 34 @ all in at 2800. The car would pull could until 3000 rpm than stutter until around 4k before picking back up. i have not pushed it past 4500 due to Im still breaking in the trans(883) and rear end and the new engine. Im curious with my setup what those of you that have this setup working would recommend for my setup as a starting point. Because right now its running so poorly I just dont feel comfortable driving it much and for the cost I would expect more from the so called self learning but it just seems to be making things worse.
 
aeonmcallister said:
Rather than start a new thread I hope I can get some help here from those who have already installed and tuned the PF4. I have mine installed and as some have said the Edelbrock forum is not overtly helpful when trying to find answers to tuning questions. Especially on Small block Mopars.

My setup.
1969 340 bored 60 over with stock type sealed power cast flat tops 4 four valve reliefs that come slightly out of the bore. stock forged bottom end
Heads are older proform speedpro for a 340 so they have the open chamber piston relief area like the Eddy performers for a 340. they are advertised at 65cc. with 1.6 roller rockers.
Cam is the following.
Make:
Chrysler
All timing components are brand new. Billet double roller timing chain with magnum tensioner, new intermediate shaft, new cam, cam bearings, rockers, lifters, valve springs and rattler balancer.

355 true trac 8 3/4 rear in a pro touring setup 67 coronet. ( I know B body) but you A body guys tend to not be as rigid when it comes to things like EFI, so there is more knowledge here than on FBBO.
Engine:
340 "LA" Mopar
RPM Range:
2000 to 6000
Camshaft Type:
Hydraulic Roller
Intake Valve Lift:
.520" rocker adjusted .554
Exhaust Valve Lift:
.515" rocker adjusted .549
Advertised Intake Duration:
282°
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
286°
Intake Duration @ .050":
229°
Exhaust Duration @ .050":
233°
Lobe Separation:
110°
Intake Centerline:
106°

Proflo4 is setup with 35lb injector and i have tried 43 and 58 psi with the same issues.

Issues:

First off with this particular cam I find it damn near impossible to set the timing at 12@ at 750 rpm which is step numero uno in the setup.(timing bounces around to much at that RPM but if I rev it to 1000 I can get it to hold the 12@ so thats where I am at on step 1. For step 2 I am at a loss I cant seem to get the IAC below 50%. I have tried removing the throttle cable, I have tried the bump it down and turn the key off in small increments but I can only seem to go so far with this method before RPM creeps up and the IAC starts going back the other way. Any tips here would be great to start?

I have been able to get the car to idle quiet nicely but its driving that I find issue with. The best tune I have worked out so far was 34 @ all in at 2800. The car would pull could until 3000 rpm than stutter until around 4k before picking back up. i have not pushed it past 4500 due to Im still breaking in the trans(883) and rear end and the new engine. Im curious with my setup what those of you that have this setup working would recommend for my setup as a starting point. Because right now its running so poorly I just dont feel comfortable driving it much and for the cost I would expect more from the so called self learning but it just seems to be making things worse.
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Aeon, you might try realtuners.com those guys are seriously bright for the most part. There are some true tuning wizards on there.
 
The iac needs to adjust by the screw on the throttle linkage. If that does help, get a iac, a genuine GM unit.
 
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