No. Just ground it.
Electrical issues
- Thread starter Dartfreak75
- Start date
-
No. Just ground it.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
With the key in "run" measure the coil NEG to ground. You should have a fairly low voltage, maybe 2V, not much more and certainly not 10-12V. This shows the ECU is causing the coil to draw current which is normal
That would be normal.
With key in run position....
Battery negative to coil positive should be at or near 12V
Batt negitave to coil negative should be at or about 12v unless... The ecu is grounding that lead when the engine is not running. What I don't know... Does the ecu act like a point ignition when the engine is not running?
In a point ignition the engine could stop with the points open or closed. If it stops with the points open the batt negative to coil negative will be at or near 12v. If it stops with the points closed the batt negitave to coil negative will be at or near 0 volts.
Measuring acrossed the coil terminals will give you various results depending on the state of the ecu / points
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
^^No with key in run the coil NEG should be quite low. A properly operating ECU "acts like" closed points to ground with engine stopped. Coil neg should be no more than maybe a couple volts, can be less
with a test light touch the neg side of coil while someone cranks the motor over ,does the test light blink ? if it does replace the coil and if it doesn't check the pick up in dist with a ohm meter or rubbed wires going to the box ,also check the plug on top of engine for loose pins
@dartfreak75 Kevin, ask these yahoos about the difference in the 72 cluster and the 75. There are a LOT smarter guys than I am on that and they'll know if they are different or not. I'm not 100% sure.......but almost sure that they are.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Ok me and RustyRatRod was talking last night and I thought of something. I used a cluster out of a 72 duster. is the pin placement the same in the clusters 71-75?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
you have both clusters? You can easily trace the circuits just looking at the rear of the board. Post photos? Good clear ones of each board? I may have a 75 manual I can take a shot of the connector............and here we go, 75:
!!!NOPE!!! Not the same
And below, the 72
!!!NOPE!!! Not the same
And below, the 72
Last edited:
@dartfreak75 Kevin, I was afraid if this. They are not the same after all.......but hay, at least you know where some of your problem is now.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Ok so I compared the two clusters and they are identical in the back and like @67Dart273 posted i was worried that the pin sequence was different but I went thru my fsm and traced and labeled the stuff on the plug and it matches if you look at the pic with both they line up you just have to picture the fsm mirrored. Idk why they made this stuff so confusing lol the first pic is the 72 the 2nd is is the 75 cluster. The last 2 pics are the 75 fsm wiring diagram vs the 72 cluster.
Then good! That means you can use the better cluster you have!
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I'm slowly chipping away at the electrical issues. I now have brake lights and reverse lights and thanks to RustyRatRod I know my fuel gauge works it must be a sending unit issue. Now the only thing that don't work is wipers and signal lights I have flashers but only to the rear. Nothing up front
We both did.....I just KNEW they were different and still caint believe it. LMAO
Heck yeah man! Progress!! Can you get a pitcher of how you have that sender grounded please?
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I don't think it's your fault. I downloaded a wiring diagram and it was completely different than the fsm. I think there are just wiring diagrams out there that are just wrong. I went and downloaded a diagram from mymopar and it was completely different than the fsm.
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
Your 360 gonna be running this weekend?
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Here is a pic of the test I did you can see the ground strap and wire in the pic. I ran another ground wire to the sender like you said and it didn't work either.
j par
Well-hung Member
You don't want to be cranking on the motor to check electrical stuff if the motor hasn't been broken in yet....
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I'm trying lol I'm trying to get all the bugs worked out that way once its running I don't have any unexpected surprises lol.
I discovered the same thing with schematics. I thought it was FSM from mymopar.com and it wasnt, gotta be careful!
Good luck.
Good luck.
I'm blind I guess, but I don't see WHERE wire is connected to ground OR the sender.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
The ground wire is connected to the sender under the ground strap the gauge sender wire is not connected its got the ground wire in it for the test.
When the ground wire is not in the sender plug, WHERE do you have it grounded FROM the sender?
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
From the trunk floor to the bottom of the sender where the ground strap is. The ground is highlighted in orange the slice is where I removed it and reconnect it. I know it's not a proper splice yet but I will fix that.
-
