Electronic Distributors From Rick Ehrenberg

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My issue with Rick Ehrenberg has nothing to do with distributers. It goes back about 20 years to the Imperial Forum. He does seem to have all the answers. His aren't always the best answers. But then no one man has all the best answers. That explains why his name appeared in this forum... Research.
Good luck to all.
 
crackedback said:
What's the point here? Do you feel that 8* initial is a good setting for an engine?

26* mechanical is an absolute POS for anything mopar, even a stock 318. Unless you plan on running 40* total timing, then there's a chance.
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i read that as 12 @ 650 rpm,24 @ 950 rpm,26 @2500 and 34 total @ 3000 rpm
looks like a good curve to me or am i reading the description wrong?
 
Typically when one specifies advance in distributor degrees, it means distributor advance advance at distributor RPM. The timing information shown by 67Dart273 is of that format. It does not include initial advance, nor the RPM at crank, that you suggest. The ebay ad suggests distributor specs, so it seems errors exist...
 
WHEN I TEST MINE THE SPECKS ARE AT 2000 RPM AND 17"HG, SO I RUN THEM AT 700, 1100 AND 2K AND 7. 11. AND 17 hg AND DOCUMENT IT, GIVES A GOOD IDEA HOW IT PERFORMS, my books only have 2000 rpm and 17"hg, add them up to get the total.
Opps caps lock!:lol:
 
Image47.jpg
crysler_dist_fitted.jpg
 
Hey any one have a source for the spring clips? I have a ton of internals if any one needs them I usually strip the remanufactured distributors without numbers for parts.
 
Theses are a example of some of the specs I use, no way I can look them all up in the books.
specs.jpg
 
So after spending a little time searching and studying it seems this particular distributor is a slightly modified Chinese made WPS branded item. This picture from the eBay listing shows the part number printed on the dist. body: "dst3890" which is a WAIglobal part number. Likely changed out springs, riveted cap clip bosses so they don't fall out is about the only mods I can see. A WAIglobal version can be had for about $55+/- depending on a multitude of sources. So an additional $55 for a total cost of $110ish for those two mods unless it also comes with a US made pickup or quality cap and rotor which is unlikely. Highly doubtful. Cleaver ad though, makes you think he gave directives during manufacturing and setup!

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i'm sure he has made damn good money on ebay with the sheeple that think he is the be all end all mopar guru .
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah? Then read his description. He says his distributors are to be set at 8* BTDC. Hardly a performance oriented curve. I think what he knows more is how to fleece people out of their hard earned money while giving them an absolute minimum performance product all based on his"fame". Sounds about right to me.
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This +1

Get an OEM Mopar one from the for sale section or Old Car Parts Northwest, or one of the newer Mopar ones they used to make if you can find them, and then recurve it.

Or get a recurved one from a member here such as @TrailBeast
 
Blueprinted, ISO 9002, custom tailored advance curves, OEM spec's, claims to have "had it made" ....marketing baby!! Heck at least remove the red vacuum cap and remove the part number print! :eek:
 
kiss said:
This +1

Get an OEM Mopar one from the for sale section or Old Car Parts Northwest, or one of the newer Mopar ones they used to make if you can find them, and then recurve it.

Or get a recurved one from a member here such as @TrailBeast
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Exactly where I was going. Both TrailBeast and hallifaxhops are members HERE in OUR forum that provide nice products for a very affordable price. No need to go outside the forum. We need to support our own.
 
ir3333 said:
i read that as 12 @ 650 rpm,24 @ 950 rpm,26 @2500 and 34 total @ 3000 rpm
looks like a good curve to me or am i reading the description wrong?
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Jimminy Christmas

26* mechancial advance, which is what this wonderfully useless distributor in OOTB form has, is not going to be good for anything mopar built that you'd expect to run well at idle and 34 total... is that better? 8* initial timing is ABSOLUTE GARBAGE. 8 + 26 = 34 Is that a good enough explanation why the curve sucks ***? :)

He mentions "For most setups you'd want to run initial timing at around 8 crank degrees BTDC." On what fricken planet is that good advice? Not planet Earth. Not even stock 318's like 8* initial. Maybe a smog tune up, then you aren't buying that thing either. Then just change the mechanical advance in the ad (crazy hot cam), on a distributor which it's not real easy to do... hmmmm.

I wouldn't spend that amount of money on a distributor, especially if it can be found for less money elsewhere needing the work that's required to run in a decent mopar engine. Garbage is what it is in stock form.
 
crackedback said:
Jimminy Christmas

26* mechancial advance, which is what this wonderfully useless distributor in OOTB form has, is not going to be good for anything mopar built that you'd expect to run well at idle and 34 total... is that better? 8* initial timing is ABSOLUTE GARBAGE. 8 + 26 = 34 Is that a good enough explanation why the curve sucks ***? :)

He mentions "For most setups you'd want to run initial timing at around 8 crank degrees BTDC." On what fricken planet is that good advice? Not planet Earth. Not even stock 318's like 8* initial. Maybe a smog tune up, then you aren't buying that thing either. Then just change the mechanical advance in the ad (crazy hot cam), on a distributor which it's not real easy to do... hmmmm.

I wouldn't spend that amount of money on a distributor, especially if it can be found for less money elsewhere needing the work that's required to run in a decent mopar engine. Garbage is what it is in stock form.
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I was tryin to be nice, but you brought it home. LOL
 
I thought he said 8 initial at 650 rpm for ease of starting,but by 950 rpm his 2 stage springs have added 16 for a total of 24 degrees.
That's pretty quick, do you guys run more than 22 degrees at 800 - 900 rpm?
 
for a guy that has built,raced and taught mopar performance for 60 years i can't believe there would be any detractors.
i doubt if there is a more dedicated Mopar Enthusiast.
 
ir3333 said:
I thought he said 8 initial at 650 rpm for ease of starting,but by 950 rpm his 2 stage springs have added 16 for a total of 24 degrees.
That's pretty quick, do you guys run more than 22 degrees at 800 - 900 rpm?
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You have no idea how to properly set up an ignition from a timing perspective. I run stock 318's at 12-16* initial timing, how is that distributor going to work in that set up without a full R&R to shorten that wonderful 26* built in. I guess if it could handle 38-42 total timing, I'd be good, otherwise, not so much.

Simple rule, you NEVER want any mechanical advance bleeding into your idle settings... EVER!!!! You want idle timing to remain STATIC, otherwise it's another moving variable.

If a set up runs at 850 rpm, what's the initial timing? It's STILL 8* which fricken SUCKS on just about everything.

e-booger has his detractors. I'm one of many that called him out on his over-angling and breaking ball joints bullshit using FMJ spindles that he wrote about in the disc-o-tech article years ago. Scare journalism at it's best. I believe he finally admitted that he'd never heard of a case of a ball joint breaking regarding that hypothesis.

Abodyjoe has posted some articles from magazines over the years regarding how to set timing, I suggest you read a few to get a better understanding, then you will see the light why this distributor is a POS OOTB.
 
ir3333 said:
for a guy that has built,raced and taught mopar performance for 60 years i can't believe there would be any detractors.
i doubt if there is a more dedicated Mopar Enthusiast.
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Yeah so lets just follow him off the cliff. <smh>
 
i've welded, changed springs and recurved many distributors,this is going nowhere.
Your 100 % correct...i'm done.
 
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