Engine tick help please (video)

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UOP

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Ok, so here's the deal. My buddy and I have been fighting this tick for way too long, and no matter what we do it just won't go away. Just keeps ticking and ticking and it's like the motor is just pointing at us and laughing. Here's couple videos we took today.









We've been fighting this for quite a while and have adjusted the rockers numerous times with no change, swapped the lifters, checked the cam lobes, you name it, we've done it, but I'M OPEN TO ANY SUGGESTIONS. This has gotten ridiculous, and it has to get worked out.

Discuss 8)
 
Have you checked your header gaskets.If they leak,they will make a ticking sound.My Duster with the 360 did that until I changed them,now its gone.
 
Check to see if the pushrod is contacting the opening in the head. If you have a lot of lift the geometry can change and cause one or more to just barely hit. Easiest way is to pull the pushrod, clean the oil off and paint it. Let the paint dry and CAREFULLY so as not to scuff the paint reinstall the pushrod. Run the engine for a few minutes and then pull the rod and look where the paint has been rubbed off. You may actually be albe to see the transfered paint on the passage in the head. If its contacting you may be able to use a rat-tail file and open up the passage. Just remember to pull the intake and put some rags in the valley to catch any particles then clean up REAL good when finished.

Larry
 
When you adjust that rocker, does the sound change at all? If not, then I think you might be looking in wrong spot. I would think by adjusting it, the ticking sound should change, or go away, or get worse...something anyway.
I also vote for a possible header leak. They do make a ticking sound sometimes.

(shrug)
 
lhearold said:
Check to see if the pushrod is contacting the opening in the head. If you have a lot of lift the geometry can change and cause one or more to just barely hit. Easiest way is to pull the pushrod, clean the oil off and paint it. Let the paint dry and CAREFULLY so as not to scuff the paint reinstall the pushrod. Run the engine for a few minutes and then pull the rod and look where the paint has been rubbed off. You may actually be albe to see the transfered paint on the passage in the head. If its contacting you may be able to use a rat-tail file and open up the passage. Just remember to pull the intake and put some rags in the valley to catch any particles then clean up REAL good when finished.

Larry
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Good idea on the paint. Do you think it's possible it could still be rubbing but show no signs on the pushrod? On the pushrod we clearanced for, there was a shiny ring around it, right about an inch or so below the cup, but that was all I could see.
 
65Val said:
When you adjust that rocker, does the sound change at all? If not, then I think you might be looking in wrong spot. I would think by adjusting it, the ticking sound should change, or go away, or get worse...something anyway.
I also vote for a possible header leak. They do make a ticking sound sometimes.

(shrug)
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If I back the adjuster off enough it will get worse, that's true, but it won't get any better.


As for a possible header leak, I agree, they can make a ticking sound. I had that happen on my own car (in my sig). However, would you hear it the loudest on the intake manifold when listening through a stethescope?
 
UOP said:
If I back the adjuster off enough it will get worse, that's true, but it won't get any better.
Click to expand...

Thats normal...but if you keep tightening it up, if its really valve-train-related ,the tick should eventually stop.

Maybe back off the header bolts ,just a scosche, and see if that changes the sound. That would eliminate header leaks if it doesn't change.
 
I was digging around for info on the Comp Hi-Lift series for Mopars for my 440, mainly the 285HL and found posts where people had their pushrods being flexed by the aggressive fast ramp of the cam, some to the point of actually coming out of the lifter plungers. Maybe even with the extra clearance the push rod simply can't cope with the ramp and is still flexing to the point of rubbing or ticking when it contacts the plunger over and over? Not sure, but I am to the point of forgetting the HL cams.
 
Try clearancing the pushrod holes adjacent to that one. You've got a ton of exhaust noise there, but i hear what you're talking about. Definitely something valve train related. No doubt about it.
 
Disconnect one spark plug at a time and see if you can narrow the tick down to a particular cylinder.

Also check to make sure your flex plate is bolted securely to your torque converter and that it is not cracked.
 
NeedMoreMopars said:
I was digging around for info on the Comp Hi-Lift series for Mopars for my 440, mainly the 285HL and found posts where people had their pushrods being flexed by the aggressive fast ramp of the cam, some to the point of actually coming out of the lifter plungers. Maybe even with the extra clearance the push rod simply can't cope with the ramp and is still flexing to the point of rubbing or ticking when it contacts the plunger over and over? Not sure, but I am to the point of forgetting the HL cams.
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I should have mentioned this before, but the pushrods are custom Hughes pieces, and are thick and heavy. I've checked them before so make sure they are straight and they are. But really, .525" isn't all that much lift. Atleast I don't think it is.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Try clearancing the pushrod holes adjacent to that one. You've got a ton of exhaust noise there, but i hear what you're talking about. Definitely something valve train related. No doubt about it.
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Yeah I went back and listened to the video again and heard what sounds like an exhaust leak. Funny thing is that in person it's not that noticeable.
 
trapster said:
Disconnect one spark plug at a time and see if you can narrow the tick down to a particular cylinder.

Also check to make sure your flex plate is bolted securely to your torque converter and that it is not cracked.
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I have done that. Pulled all 8 plug wires with no change in the ticking sound.

Also checked the converter bolts about a year ago and they were all tight. Car has not been driven in 2 years btw. As for the flexplate, I can't vouch for that.
 
You know I'm running those same Hughes rockers on my 400 with not a sound and I've looked at that video at least a dozen times. That no.6 rocker looks like it's hanging up and not dropping at the adjuster end when the pushrod retreats. This will cause excess clearance at the push rod cup to rocker arm adjuster and then a ticking. Is the rocker shaft new and the rocker spinnning freely on it. Did you go through the entire Hughes procedure for checking rocker roller to valve stem contact through the valve open/close cycle and then determine the proper push rod length using the Hughes adjustable hydraulic lifter. Another thing that could bite ya is if the valve stem to valve guide is carboned up and the valve is sticking for a millisecond when it should be closing which will also give you clearance at the pushrod.

That video looks to me like you've got a few other valves that are not opening and closing smoothly but instead bouncing.

One other thing is to get rocker out of the way and have a look for a broken spring, if you using inner dampeners or springs check them also.
 
I had a noise in my motor I fought for 2 years (when I could work on it). Finally had to pull the motor and tear it down to find it.

Hate to suggest it, but my "mystery noise" was due to my mistake when I installed the new timing chain. I used the mark over the key showing "0", not the mark I was supposed to use, and I had my cam off about 45 degrees. The intake valves were contacting the pistons and collapsing the lifters.

The way your rockers are bouncing around, I'm wondering if you don't have a similar problem.
 
demon seed said:
You know I'm running those same Hughes rockers on my 400 with not a sound and I've looked at that video at least a dozen times. That no.6 rocker looks like it's hanging up and not dropping at the adjuster end when the pushrod retreats. This will cause excess clearance at the push rod cup to rocker arm adjuster and then a ticking. Is the rocker shaft new and the rocker spinnning freely on it. Did you go through the entire Hughes procedure for checking rocker roller to valve stem contact through the valve open/close cycle and then determine the proper push rod length using the Hughes adjustable hydraulic lifter. Another thing that could bite ya is if the valve stem to valve guide is carboned up and the valve is sticking for a millisecond when it should be closing which will also give you clearance at the pushrod.

That video looks to me like you've got a few other valves that are not opening and closing smoothly but instead bouncing.
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Haha, I see what you mean. I went back and watched the video again and saw what you're talking about. It's the video playing tricks with your eyes, and doesn't do it in the original HD version. The shaft is new and the rockers do indeed move smoothly. We followed Hughes' instructions and also used their adjustable pushrod kit to find the proper length pushrod. The contact pattern on the valve tip is slightly off, but very very close to the middle, like a millimeter off.

As for the carbon, the heads are new. Well technically they're 3 years old but the motor has very little run time on it. They're 440source heads btw.
 
DionR said:
I had a noise in my motor I fought for 2 years (when I could work on it). Finally had to pull the motor and tear it down to find it.

Hate to suggest it, but my "mystery noise" was due to my mistake when I installed the new timing chain. I used the mark over the key showing "0", not the mark I was supposed to use, and I had my cam off about 45 degrees. The intake valves were contacting the pistons and collapsing the lifters.

The way your rockers are bouncing around, I'm wondering if you don't have a similar problem.
Click to expand...

This reminds me of a good point. We did degree the cam when it was installed, and it came out to what Comp said it would. I don't remember the number though, it's been too long.
 
You really wanna narrow it down? Remove pushrods and replace them one at a time starting the engine with one gone each time. Yeah, it'll skip, but it won't hurt it and you'll find that flippin tick pretty quick.
 
StrokerScamp said:
You really wanna narrow it down? Remove pushrods and replace them one at a time starting the engine with one gone each time. Yeah, it'll skip, but it won't hurt it and you'll find that flippin tick pretty quick.
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You know, I thought about that, but thought the cam lobe would spit the lifter out of the bore when the engine started. Nothing to hold it down. Have you done this before?
 
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