Family Fish on its 3rd life: 1967 F/B Resto

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slimjim said:
I thought I recognized those rims and tires haha. where are you located in the central valley? Im currently restoring my 68 FB fish in hanford. Gotta love craigslist.
Click to expand...

too good of a deal - the hub caps are in great shape, the tires are new, and the rims are painted with automotive paint. I am actually surprised I scored these, caught them on the last day of the post.

I am in Tracy, CA.

Got any pics/build thread of your car?
 
Finished shaping the lip panel and tacked it in:
 

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Hi Everyone- I have to take a 2 week break from working on the car, I am getting married today and will be in Hawaii for a couple weeks. More progress when I return....
 
Man 10 days in Hawaii was awesome- but I am glad to get moving on the car again!

Above you can see where I cut out the wiper motor recess, and extended the factor lip in the engine bay. Now I have welded up a panel to fill it all in.
 

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As you can see, the original design idea of having bead roller impressions on the filler panel was not used. I decided the bead roll just didn't look like the factory stamping, and instead would make it look like a catalog filler piece. So I am just going to make it nice and smooth instead.

If you have not seen the pics of the trunk replacement (using a used dart trunk floor),
Spray welding, or the initial "get it clean enough to primer" push, check out the full picture archive by following the link in my signature.
 
My dad fixed up the 73 up K member for me by fulling welding it up and adding reinforcements similar to firm feel. Also an industrial sized tow hook was added for those hit the starter with a hammer days :D

All the welding was done while the k member was being held in a jig. You can see in the background a giant plate with allthread and pipes for spacers.
 

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I'm curious- why are you putting a 73 K member in a 67? What the advantage, and whats required to make it fit?
 
Thanks ABodyBomber!

BobK said:
I'm curious- why are you putting a 73 K member in a 67? What the advantage, and whats required to make it fit?
Click to expand...

Hi Bob, luckily it just bolts in!. The pitman arm on the 67s is a one year only expensive part to replace. Also the 73 up a body k member has the desirable spool mounts that make mounting the engine easy and cheap. Also I am going to run the disc brakes from the 73 up era which requires replacing the spindles, and upgrading to the more desirable larger balljoint upper control arms.

In the end you get the best version of what mother mopar came up with for the a bodies, after everything was standardized (easier parts availability)
 
chris,

nice work. Filling the firewall, spool K-member... all the stuff I kick myself for not doing. Dont tell my wife how much I am gonna re-do later...


Keep it up,

JOE
 
I cannot tell you how nice it is to have this area all one color again. Sealed up the engine bay with Southern Polyurethanes, Inc (SPI) Epoxy Primer. Simple 1:1 ratio, sprays nice. I used too big of a tip (2.0) so it went a little fast.. I just backed off to avoid hitting it too heavy.

Tomorrow I will apply some SPI 2K High Build Primer, then I will be ready to finish this area up.

For your viewing pleasure:
 

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More boring primer photos, in case someone reads this thread and does something similar.

I let the epoxy dry overnight (not required) and sprayed the Southern Polyurethanes, Inc (SPI) 2K High Build Primer. Mixes 4:1, and sprays very thick. tough to get much of a fan to spray. As per the technical documentation, I added a little reducer to help it flow better on the second coat.

I am already missing the gloss finish of the epoxy, as this high build flat finish shows less of the imperfections.
 

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I am going to try to embed a slideshow- let's see if it works!

<object width="425" height="425" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000"><param name="movie" value="http://images-community.shutterfly.com/flashapps/slideshow/slideshow-ui.swf"/><param name="flashvars" value="configXMLURL=http://images-community.shutterfly.com/flashapps/slideshow/config/config-share.xml&slideshowModuleURL=http://images-community.shutterfly.com/flashapps/slideshow/slideshow-module.swf&projectGUID=3QZN2zVm01iBA&swfName=slideshowFlashContent&showReplay=true"/><param name="menu" value="false"/><param name="quality" value="best"/><param name="wmode" value="transparent"/><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"/><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"/><embed width="425" height="425" align="middle" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" name="wrapper" quality="best" menu="false" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" flashvars="configXMLURL=http://images-community.shutterfly.com/flashapps/slideshow/config/config-share.xml&slideshowModuleURL=http://images-community.shutterfly.com/flashapps/slideshow/slideshow-module.swf&projectGUID=3QZN2zVm01iBA&swfName=slideshowFlashContent&showReplay=true" src="http://images-community.shutterfly.com/flashapps/slideshow/slideshow-ui.swf"></embed></object><p style="width:425px;margin-top:0;text-align:center;"><a href="http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=3QZN2zVm0Yxk&eid=118">Click here to view this photo book larger</a><div style="margin-top: 10px; width: 425px; text-align: center;">Photo Book Tip: Create an adventurous <a href="http://www.shutterfly.com/photo-books" style="color: #6666cc;">travel photo album</a> at Shutterfly.com.</div></p>


link just in case:

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=3QZN2zVm0Yxk
 
I took a day off work to enjoy some zen time on the car Thursday.

When I sandblasted the inner fenders, the original suspension was still connected to the car. Therefore there were a few areas that still had some undercoating or rust there. Since I need to get these areas primed before I shoot the firewall in color, I thought I would get it done. After some quality time with a chisel, putty knife and wire brush it is looking much better.
I also finally straightened out the crumpled sheetmetal that ties the front frame rail to the rocker. The driver's floor and rocker were moved more than I originally thought. after pulling it on the redneck frame machine (below) and some persuasion with the supersledge sliding hammer the ebrake cable, the floor and the sheetmetal were all happy.
 

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