Father-Son 1974 Duster Project

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Just a heads up for when you bolt the flex plate to the converter......it will only line up correctly, one way. Meaning, you can get 3 bolts in....and when you spin it to the 4th bolt, the holes in the flex plate and converter will be slightly off. If that happens, just take the other 3 bolts back out and rotate the converter one hole, and try again. If your luck is like mine was when I learned that lesson......you'll get it lined up on the 4th try, lol! Since I had to go thru that the first time as a teenager, I now line the flex plate up to the converter correctly before I bolt the flex plate to the engine, and mark both with a shot of paint or with a Sharpie marker. When I use a Sharpie, I always draw an arrow on the converter pointing towards the lug, and write 'HERE DUMMY' on it, and then mark an X on the flex plate. Good luck. O:)
 
As my buddy Al will attest to, we marked the flex plate alignment with a spot of that beautiful red paint before we bolted everything together :)
 
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Here is our good ole reman distributor. We were looking for a black cap and our local Napa got us one that's very very dark grey.

As far as my HEI conversion goes, it occurred to me we could mount a gutted stock Chrysler ECU box on the inner fender and plug the unused 4 pin connector from the harness into it.

As I've mentioned before, we can mount the HEI module on the underside of the dizzy...
 
DusterDaddy said:
As my buddy Al will attest to, we marked the flex plate alignment with a spot of that beautiful red paint before we bolted everything together :)
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That we did.
Nice distributor I vote for HEI. lol
 
DusterDaddy said:
I need to find out what kind of bolts to use to bolt the flex plate to the torque converter....

We bought a nice stock gently used radiator from a V8 auto trans AC 74 A body. It's on it's way to us now.

Our distributor arrived today and I'm wondering if I should just use the Chrysler ECU box and ballast resistor since our under hood harness is in tact. I really think going with the HEI module would be better for our purposes.

I'm wondering what do you do with the unused connector on the harness that is for the Chrysler ECU box if you don't use one?
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If you need 4 bolts I will send them to you free, just pm me.
 
HEi under the distributor, they like the shortest wire possible.
 
My son Aaron just bought this 72 Indian Enduro. Between College, the bike, his Jeep and friends I'll be spending a little more time flying solo on Misty.....:color:
 

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Vintage bikes are fun, this is a one owner with 269 miles I bought off my neighbor.
Time capsule, tires are not even dry rotted.
And your package is in the mail.

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Yes, street legal, last inspection sticker was 1986.
Neighbor bought it new for his kid, would never sell it to me.
His kid went blind at an early age, pre-teen, so it sat in a heated / ac garage, his kid sold it to me reasonable after his dad passed away.

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I bought an inspection cover from another member and it's on the way here along with the bolt and stud for the big boy starter we are going to run.

Does anyone have an oil filter they like to use? It looks like I have plenty of room. I'm not going with the mini starter or right angle oil filter adapter since we will be running manifolds not headers.

I really wish I had time to get the transmission case completely clean before it went in the car, but the shop that did the shift kit install took a bit longer than they said and I only got it back the morning our buddy Al came over with his engine crane to put in the motor. I crawled under tonight and tried this citrus degreaser I picked up from Home Depot, and it looks like with a little elbow grease and a Scotchbright, it will clean up really nice.....
 

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Scrub it, its just aluminum.
I find it hard too believe a trans shop gave it to you in that condition.
 
Yeah, it's not the end of the world. I was going to try to do the kit myself and then changed my mind and took it to a local garage where the owner loves old Mopars. He was supposed to do the kit, but he got busy and sent it out to a very good trans shop to install the kit. Report came back that the trans looked great and had a recent rebuild ( which I was told when I bought it )
I guess between the garage and the trans shop wire got crossed as to who was cleaning the case. In any event my bill was only $100 so I'll scrub!
 
Ain't no biggie, After how we've seen how you can clean/paint the whole underside of Misty...that housing should be a walk in da park!
 
Despite all the filth a guy gets covered with while cleaning such things, it gets to be almost therapeutic. There's something about entering that 'Zen' zone as you go over every square inch of your car.
 
It IS therapeutic for me. Being under the car on the creeper fiddliefucking around cleaning and painting things has become a real happy place :)
 
And here is our girl with the morning sun making her look orange at the nose and red in the rear! Love the way this color looks different in different light!

I went nuts (for me) ordering parts we need to keep moving forward.

  1. Distributor hold down from a fellow member
  2. Trans inspection cover and starter hardware from another fellow member
  3. Fuel line from inline tube
  4. Pump to Carb fuel line from Summit
  5. Oil Filter from Summit
  6. Compression tester from Summit
  7. Torque Converter bolts from Summit

Someone is going to think I hit the lottery.....:D
 

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We are going to run this Holley 80457 600 cfm carburetor on our motor. We are venturing into uncharted territory now at this stage of the project. Along the way a few guys have said my combo may need more carb than this.

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Most think given the stock high stall torque converter and cam we are running the 80457 will be just right
 
That carb should work fine. Piece of cake to rebuild. Might just lack a little hp on top end.
Hardest part to rebuild is getting the O rings in correct on fuel transfer tube. They make a secondary metering plate that has replaceable jets in it, makes it a lot easier to tune.
 
We located and purchased this stock V8 Auto trans A-body radiator. Needs to be cleaned up, painted and have a few fins straightened out. We're gonna run it! Just realized we're going to need to find a fan shroud too..... View attachment image-1218466104.jpg
 
Send it to a local shop and have the radiator checked out.
It runs about $84 bucks here to take one apart and rod it out, repair minor core damage.
Just a heads up!
 
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