Finally get to pretend I am one of the cool kids - Holley kit swap

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DionR

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Got my core 5.7 setting in my '73 finally. Need the motor in so I can start cutting the floor and building a cross member for the T56 Magnum.

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This is with the Holley mounts, headers and oil pan.

I used the recommended oil filter adapter, works well.

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I even have room for the AC compressor.

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This is a compressor from a 2012 1500 or 2500 Ram so it isn't the same as a car compressor. RockAuto shows they both use a 10SRE18C style compressor but not the same part number.

I do know that I can remove and replace them both with the engine in the car because I dropped the motor in with them bolted up and then had to remove them to knock the spool mount bolt in. Not saying it was fun, but doable. The oil filter adapter has 2 bolts that are pretty well hidden from view from the top, but going from the bottom made them easier to see and get at.
 
The clearance at the firewall for the SRV module is great.

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This was with the back of the motor on a jack, but even without it being supported the SRV module isn't hitting the firewall.

The DS header is really tight to the inner fender. I swapped the k-frame and didn't remember to spend some time centering it up before I tightened it down so I am hopping I can slide the entire k-frame over some.

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Looks like I have almost 7" to the core support for a radiator and fan.

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Overall really happy with the Holley kit. Things are tight but it fits and I (so far) haven't had to massage anything. Really happy to finally have a G3 in the car so I can start on the tunnel and crossmember fabrication.
 
Thanks for sharing the pictures.
How’s the clearance for the steering shaft to the headers?
 
Nice work @DionR didn’t Holley give up on a lot of that swap stuff? Have you just been hoarding it till now?
I’ll be watching your T56 install closely as I’m right there also. Are you using a prefab crossmember like a TodRon for the trans or building your own?
 
Thanks for sharing the pictures.
How’s the clearance for the steering shaft to the headers?

Didn’t get a chance to mess with that. The Holley instructions say you can’t run sock coupler but I did take a peak and with the manual box it kind of looks like it might have room. But I won’t be able to look at it until week after next.
 
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Nice work @DionR didn’t Holley give up on a lot of that swap stuff? Have you just been hoarding it till now?
I’ll be watching your T56 install closely as I’m right there also. Are you using a prefab crossmember like a TodRon for the trans or building your own?

It’s not clear to me what they are doing. When I go to the Holley site and use their links (like Engine swap -> A-Body -> Exhaust) I get nothing. But if I plug in the part numbers I find it and it says in stock. The motor mounts show up as a kit only with mounts and crossmember, but I can find the mounts separate if I have a part number. No idea what they are doing. I know the headers are there, but they are about $250 more than what I paid for them.

I’ve been buying parts for a couple of years now. Sure glad to have them in hand unlike the guy that ordered a set of swap headers for a Dakota and had Holley discontinue them. But I would guess you still could buy everything including the headers again if need be.

I am building my own crossmember. The Holley mounts move the motor forward something like 1.75” so the ToddRon stuff would only be a start and I didn’t want to drop a bunch of money on something that I wasn’t sure would work. My plan is to figure stuff out and use SendCutSend to cut the parts. Time will tell.
 
I fabbed one myself. It's pretty straightforward. I made up some cardboard templates with everything in the car and the tunnel cut out, then welded them up. Front and back were maybe 1/8" flat plate with a 2" or so wide strip between them to make something like a C channel/I beam. I used the original outside bolt of the stock transmission crossmember and drilled a new one outside that to have two per side like stock. The main lesson I learned was to make sure you double check everything is where you want it before making the templates. When I made the first one I must have left the transmission jacked up overnight and it sagged and was way lower by the time I got to it the next morning. Never realized as I just grabbed some cardboard and started working the next day. I kept hitting it on every small bump on the road though and finally actually ran my fuel rail into my firewall at lunch one day before I realized what had happened. Jacked it back up and remade it and it's still pretty low hanging fruit, but much better than it was.
 
@DionR looking good in there! Glad to see the Holley stuff working out(thats what I’m using). Could I get the part number for the oil filter adapter please.
 
@DionR looking good in there! Glad to see the Holley stuff working out(thats what I’m using). Could I get the part number for the oil filter adapter please.

Looks like I ordered 4893315AC. It’s kind of speedy, and seems to have gone up since I bought mine.

There is also a TRX version that has ports for an oil cooler. But I don’t have a part number for it and can’t say for sure it works. But my guess is that it will.

Things Change.. Butters is now getting a 392
 
Looking at pics, dipstick is going to be tight if you are going with the Holley or truck. Looks like no room between inner fender and exhaust tube.
 
That looks like a good fit! I assume this is mockup. You could easily set up a port a power with the engine out of the way and gently push that inner fender out a tad away from that header, I bet. It wouldn't take much at all.
 
Looks like I ordered 4893315AC. It’s kind of speedy, and seems to have gone up since I bought mine.

There is also a TRX version that has ports for an oil cooler. But I don’t have a part number for it and can’t say for sure it works. But my guess is that it will.

Things Change.. Butters is now getting a 392
@DionR looking good in there! Glad to see the Holley stuff working out(thats what I’m using). Could I get the part number for the oil filter adapter please.

Looking good Bud.. Keep it up!

the TRX adapter is 53011252AD. They're pretty close to same price as each other, but yea, didn't used to be. The TRX will require you to replace the quick lock fittings and plastic plugs with actual metal plugs.. ask me how I know. I did take advantage of using the plugs tho. I drilled and tapped one of them to add a pressure switch and hook it to my stock dash light.. aka "idiot light". I obviously need one. That way, when you dump 6 quarts of oil in 3.7 seconds , something says "YO!" Thank god for smoke lol

The TRX design also has a lower section on it to direct oil, when replacing the oil filter.. like a drip pan oi 1/2 funnel thing. In my case, I had to cut that off. It was hitting the K.

Also, adding the 90 deg adapter , can make for an interesting lower hose design.. depending on where your lower rad outlet is. the oil filter hangs right out there in front of the intake port.

So unless you want utilize the oil cooler ports for a cooler or extra sensors.. Just get the 4893315AC and save yourself some hassle.

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Got my core 5.7 setting in my '73 finally. Need the motor in so I can start cutting the floor and building a cross member for the T56 Magnum.

View attachment 1716323063

View attachment 1716323064

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This is with the Holley mounts, headers and oil pan.

I used the recommended oil filter adapter, works well.

View attachment 1716323067

View attachment 1716323073

I even have room for the AC compressor.

View attachment 1716323069

This is a compressor from a 2012 1500 or 2500 Ram so it isn't the same as a car compressor. RockAuto shows they both use a 10SRE18C style compressor but not the same part number.

I do know that I can remove and replace them both with the engine in the car because I dropped the motor in with them bolted up and then had to remove them to knock the spool mount bolt in. Not saying it was fun, but doable. The oil filter adapter has 2 bolts that are pretty well hidden from view from the top, but going from the bottom made them easier to see and get at.
Hell Yeah! Finally getting it done!
 
The clearance at the firewall for the SRV module is great.

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View attachment 1716323087

This was with the back of the motor on a jack, but even without it being supported the SRV module isn't hitting the firewall.

The DS header is really tight to the inner fender. I swapped the k-frame and didn't remember to spend some time centering it up before I tightened it down so I am hopping I can slide the entire k-frame over some.

View attachment 1716323081
I'm not sure how much wiggle room the K actually has since the bolts have shoulders on them. Are the Holley engine mount bolt holes slotted? I wonder if the engine could be rotated a few degrees without the trans on it making this header really close.
 
Looking good Bud.. Keep it up!

the TRX adapter is 53011252AD. They're pretty close to same price as each other, but yea, didn't used to be. The TRX will require you to replace the quick lock fittings and plastic plugs with actual metal plugs.. ask me how I know. I did take advantage of using the plugs tho. I drilled and tapped one of them to add a pressure switch and hook it to my stock dash light.. aka "idiot light". I obviously need one. That way, when you dump 6 quarts of oil in 3.7 seconds , something says "YO!" Thank god for smoke lol

The TRX design also has a lower section on it to direct oil, when replacing the oil filter.. like a drip pan oi 1/2 funnel thing. In my case, I had to cut that off. It was hitting the K.

Also, adding the 90 deg adapter , can make for an interesting lower hose design.. depending on where your lower rad outlet is. the oil filter hangs right out there in front of the intake port.

So unless you want utilize the oil cooler ports for a cooler or extra sensors.. Just get the 4893315AC and save yourself some hassle.

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Thanks for info, did find the TRX unit cheaper in a bunch of places.
 
Looking at pics, dipstick is going to be tight if you are going with the Holley or truck. Looks like no room between inner fender and exhaust tube.

I didn’t even thinking to test the dipstick. I have the Holley one which (I think) fits close to block. Will take a look when I get home.
 
How did the header installation go?

I followed the instructions and installed the DS before I dropped the motor in. The biggest issue I had was I didn’t have the motor tipped back so it was a struggle to get the motor back far enough for the oil pan to clear the k-frame so I could drop the motor into the mounts. The header was hitting the firewall before I could drop it further and having the motor tipped back would have been huge. Next time I will have a way to tip it.

The PS header slid in from the front without issues. Partly because the alternator wasn’t installed. Some of the bolts weren’t easy, but not impossible.

I will add that I don’t see a way to install or remove the DS header without at least tilting the motor and maybe even removing or shifting the steering box.
 
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