Finally, my first 360 and goals for it! I'll be asking a lot of questions.

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I will be following 318willrunns porting videos and I will also have the heads milled. The shop who will be doing the milling, and taking care of some valve guides also clean the heads. I thought it would be nice to work on clean heads, but then I thought again... Is it better to do the porting first and then have them milled? When porting I will be moving them around a lot and it might be dumb to put the nice clean surface through that?
 
trebor75 said:
I will be following 318willrunns porting videos and I will also have the heads milled. The shop who will be doing the milling, and taking care of some valve guides also clean the heads. I thought it would be nice to work on clean heads, but then I thought again... Is it better to do the porting first and then have them milled? When porting I will be moving them around a lot and it might be dumb to put the nice clean surface through that?
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Car wash will get them plenty clean to handle and port. I wouldn't pay a machine shop to hot tank them before you port, because you'll want to clean them after you port for sure. The ones in the video, I cleaned at the car wash after they were all done. A messy job, though, as I high pressured every hole, port, guide, etc etc.....
And remember safety glasses.... :)
 
crackedback said:
Whiplash, thmpr and rattler are made for sound??? Really
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Yes realy. Thats why they have 13-14degree more exhaust duration compared to intake.
And yes they are also made to build cylinderpreasure on low compression engines.


Trebor75: If im not misstaken you live somewhere around Stockholm? There are a few machineshops around town and they may be different on the pricing and how quick work they do,let me know if you have a use for a few names regading machineshops,in case i know some place that you had forgot about:)
 
318willrun said:
Car wash will get them plenty clean to handle and port. I wouldn't pay a machine shop to hot tank them before you port, because you'll want to clean them after you port for sure. The ones in the video, I cleaned at the car wash after they were all done. A messy job, though, as I high pressured every hole, port, guide, etc etc.....
And remember safety glasses.... :)
Click to expand...
Started porting today following the videos. Safety glasses on :)
 
trebor75 said:
Started porting today following the videos. Safety glasses on :)
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Safetyglasses are a good thing,would recomend that you dont forget gloves,little pieces of sharp iron or other metals sucks to get stuck in your hands and fingers.
 
1Fast340 said:
Safetyglasses are a good thing,would recomend that you dont forget gloves,little pieces of sharp iron or other metals sucks to get stuck in your hands and fingers.
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I have a habit of wearing gloves when I work on the car. I'm a guitar player :)
 
trebor75 said:
I have a habit of wearing gloves when I work on the car. I'm a guitar player :)
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Cool!
I used to hate gloves until i started working 8 hours a day with grinding steel and quickly learnt how ineficient it is to constantly pick little pieces of metal out of ones hands..
 
For the less involved types.... use perma tack to hold the gaskets, glue them to the head ...and walk away. Don't bother sticking them on the intake and matching it the same, chance is it won't line up and you'll have just created ledge when the manifold goes to one end or the other, a ledge on the wrong side.

Fkr the more involved types, do this.... use the plastic locators to hold the gasket in place 'felpro has them', put it together dry, drill with a tiny bit through the flat of the intake flange next to all 4 end runners just till it goes into the head 1/8....then take it apart, dye around the ports ,use the drill bit/s to locate the gasket, tape it if ya want as well...then scribe and grind. Do the same with the intake...then assemble and locate with the drill bits in each corner hole, tighten...done. It's lined up for real.

ps, when I did a lot of 318 heads...after working them to 210 cfm with a stock 1.78 valve...opening the port window to a 360 size was only worth about 4-6 cfm on the intake side. Don't do it on the exhaust or you'll hurt flow.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
ps, when I did a lot of 318 heads...after working them to 210 cfm with a stock 1.78 valve...opening the port window to a 360 size was only worth about 4-6 cfm on the intake side. Don't do it on the exhaust or you'll hurt flow.
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Yeah, I only gasket match the 318 head intake port opening to the 318 gasket, not a 360. I also agree, hogging the exhaust exit port isn't the key, but I do clean up the casting around it on the inside, which may open it up a couple of thousands.
 
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MOPAROFFICIAL said:
For the less involved types.... use perma tack to hold the gaskets, glue them to the head ...and walk away. Don't bother sticking them on the intake and matching it the same, chance is it won't line up and you'll have just created ledge when the manifold goes to one end or the other, a ledge on the wrong side.

Fkr the more involved types, do this.... use the plastic locators to hold the gasket in place 'felpro has them', put it together dry, drill with a tiny bit through the flat of the intake flange next to all 4 end runners just till it goes into the head 1/8....then take it apart, dye around the ports ,use the drill bit/s to locate the gasket, tape it if ya want as well...then scribe and grind. Do the same with the intake...then assemble and locate with the drill bits in each corner hole, tighten...done. It's lined up for real.

ps, when I did a lot of 318 heads...after working them to 210 cfm with a stock 1.78 valve...opening the port window to a 360 size was only worth about 4-6 cfm on the intake side. Don't do it on the exhaust or you'll hurt flow.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I have not yet got to the intake side. I'll keep this in mind.
 
Some pictures of the progress. Is there any reason to gasket match the intake side, the LD340 seem to be about the same size already.
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Guys, like I asked before: Is there any reason to gasket match the intake side, the LD340 seem to be about the same size already?
 
trebor75 said:
Guys, like I asked before: Is there any reason to gasket match the intake side, the LD340 seem to be about the same size already?
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'
318willrun said:
Yeah, I only gasket match the 318 head intake port opening to the 318 gasket, not a 360. I also agree, hogging the exhaust exit port isn't the key, but I do clean up the casting around it on the inside, which may open it up a couple of thousands.
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See above... has been answered. And I would use a sandroll to smooth things out in your head (meaning the 360 head :D).
 
I've had too little time lately to work on the car. Got some work done today. Cleaning and removing the freeze plugs and stuff. Cleaning gasket areas and such.

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One thing that I was thinking of. I will put the engine back together with the new cam asap. Then it will probably sit for a while before I can install it in the car and break in the cam. I was thinking that might be bad since the installation lube could drip of from the cam? Am I overthinking things?
 
Once in my lifetime running a 318 in a w250 crewcab with edelbrock performer camshaft,i milled my heads 080 (2mm) ,i could feel the torq boost with the buttometer :thumbsup:
..did not mill the intake side,so barely got it on.
 
trebor75 said:
One thing that I was thinking of. I will put the engine back together with the new cam asap. Then it will probably sit for a while before I can install it in the car and break in the cam. I was thinking that might be bad since the installation lube could drip of from the cam? Am I overthinking things?
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No, You're right to be cautious, install the cam w/lube on the journals only. Don't drop the lifters in until you've got the heads on and are ready to put the pushrods in, that's
when you apply the break-in lube, roll the engine around once to make sure you've got 'em covered. The shorter the time between then & start-up the better. I prime the oil
system, make sure the carb is full & not leaking by priming w/a "puckity-puck" electric pump, & I pre-time the dizzy to a base value around 8-10deg.BTDC.
 
Killer6 said:
No, You're right to be cautious, install the cam w/lube on the journals only. Don't drop the lifters in until you've got the heads on and are ready to put the pushrods in, that's
when you apply the break-in lube, roll the engine around once to make sure you've got 'em covered. The shorter the time between then & start-up the better. I prime the oil
system, make sure the carb is full & not leaking by priming w/a "puckity-puck" electric pump, & I pre-time the dizzy to a base value around 8-10deg.BTDC.
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Thanks. I will make sure to make every precaution.
 
Took the old cam out. Snapped a picture before doing so. Have a look at the picture. NB 1 piston is in tdc on the compression stroke on the picture.
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rigger3006 said:
thats #1 firing, dot to dot is #6. during install go dot to dot then roll engine over to #1 firing
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I'm confused. The shop manual goes on about how important it is to have nb 1 cylinder at tdc on the compression stroke before removing the cam and be sure not to move the crank after this. Are you saying I should turn it over to tdc on nr 6 cylinder, align dot to dot and then turn it over to nr 1 again???

Just out of curiosity, why cant I just install the cam just the same position as the one I took out?
 
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