Great (or lousy) customer service makes all the difference! Thanks for reminding us of that
FiTech EFI system
- Thread starter 71duster06
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Great (or lousy) customer service makes all the difference! Thanks for reminding us of that
PhillH
Well-Known Member
Johnny, just read 428 and 429. I can clearly see how frustrating this is for you to try and help. One of the reasons I'm not prejudice, I give equal opportunity for each individual to pi$$ me off. Again, I have to apolagize for the oversite.
PhillH
Well-Known Member
A quick note as to the install of the FI.
I cannot believe how easy this is, it's really amazing to go from a 45 year old technology ( on my car) to this system that is so completely modern, so easily. These are the things we used to read about in magazines with lots of money and dyno and tuning time, definetly not for the average do-it yourselfer. They say the 60's 70's were the muscle car highpoint, that's only because they haven't seen the 2010's. We are in the muscle car era !!
I cannot believe how easy this is, it's really amazing to go from a 45 year old technology ( on my car) to this system that is so completely modern, so easily. These are the things we used to read about in magazines with lots of money and dyno and tuning time, definetly not for the average do-it yourselfer. They say the 60's 70's were the muscle car highpoint, that's only because they haven't seen the 2010's. We are in the muscle car era !!
Wirth, thanks for the kind words. Hope we ended up identifying the issue as nothing more than needing to change the switched 12v source. If not let me know and I will get a hold of them tomorrow.
Phil, again no hard feelings. Hope the install is going well! Now you can start answering all the install questions. ;) Lol.
I try to be informative without getting frustrated. No-one can know everything, and the only dumb questions are ones that dont get asked!
Phil, again no hard feelings. Hope the install is going well! Now you can start answering all the install questions. ;) Lol.
I try to be informative without getting frustrated. No-one can know everything, and the only dumb questions are ones that dont get asked!
BillCJ
Member
Just a plug here for JohnnyMac and Pace and a thank you to the community. I just ordered up a FiTech 600 and a Fuel Commander and Johnny has been great with info and support. I navigated and joined here because of this great thread about the FiTech system. Sadly I don't have an A-body install to show picts when its done (Going into a Jeep CJ7 with a SBC). Keep the info flowing here though, I check back often.
Here is the offending project...
Oh and I plan to use the FiTech for timing control, so hopefully I can add something useful to this conversation.
Here is the offending project...
Oh and I plan to use the FiTech for timing control, so hopefully I can add something useful to this conversation.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
swampbog
New Member
LOL, funny the same reason I'm here and same vehicle but my CJ7 has an AMC 401 in it.
Can't have just one Jeep around so here's mine
Ray here.
Looking at a buying a new 60004 from pace to replace my current unit.
Customer service at this time is very important.
And money well spent..
I can tell you that when the fitech setup works you will never go back to a carburetor.
Ray.
Looking at a buying a new 60004 from pace to replace my current unit.
Customer service at this time is very important.
And money well spent..
I can tell you that when the fitech setup works you will never go back to a carburetor.
Ray.
Hyper Henry
Well-Known Member
And thats the reason I will not buy from Summit anymore!! Customer service is brutal now!! Glad I went to Johnny and Pace for my FiTech and can't wait for spring so I can get some miles on mine and it can self learn.
lancer273cid
Member
How does this work ++270 duration cams @0.050 with minor vacuum and lots of overlap??
Rudy`s Ride
Well-Known Member
Here is a pic of my Ramcharger that I am putting the FiTec on. Now that I figured out how to post pictures I will take some of my install.
PhillH
Well-Known Member
Jim, I took my time and did the under hood install this weekend, all the wiring from the kit is very nice, I just took the time to make the wiring after the six pin connector look as nice as the first half of it, some of it I had to shorten for my application. All the wiring was plenty long for almost any application, except one, they made the orange wire for the fuel pump wire long enough for their kit, but not long enough for someone who wants to run an in-tank pump. This is a small issue, but really, why give me three feet of wire I have to cut off from the temp sensor 12 inches from the throttle body, and then make the fuel pump wire three feet short of going to the fuel tank? Again minor, but I'm no engineer and if I can figure this out? Still I think this is going to be some of the best money I could spend on this ride, if it does what I've seen it do for others it will be fantastic! Ordering the fuel side of it this week, I should have it up and running within two weeks, I'm working out of town and order parts waiting for me to arrive when I get back for the weekend.
Also this is the unit I wish I had bought from Johnny, just saying.
Also this is the unit I wish I had bought from Johnny, just saying.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure. The problem is that on Mopar ignition switchs, the "run" wire goes "dead" during start / crank. The coil / ignition system gets power through the brown (IGN2) coming off the ignition switch, which feeds to the coil+ side of the ballast resistor.
So if you are still using a ballast, this might be a problem. One way this might work is with a pair of diodes. find out what the white wire draws for current. The diodes need to have the banded end tied together, and this connection hooks to the EFI
One of the other end of the diodes hooks to one end of your ballast (dark blue) and the other diode hooks to the coil+ end of the ballast. (brown and blue)
Not sure why anyone else is NOT having this problem? Have you changed something in the car? You sure your ballast resistor is good?
(My car no longer uses a ballast, I was using an GM HEI module)
cwirth7
Well-Known Member
Yeah still using the ballast still using the orange box and everything stock. What I ended up doing was running the brown wire and the blue wire to the ign wire on the FI. and it seems like it works, but I think I was out of gas so I'm not totally sure
340Duster247
Well-Known Member
About the horse power rating for the nitrous systems...
Is the 600hp rating always NA. Or isnit your total hp with nitrous. For example a 500-550hp NA at the crank combo, spraying 150 shot. Would that be ok for a 600hp power adder system or is the 1200 system required.
Is the 600hp rating always NA. Or isnit your total hp with nitrous. For example a 500-550hp NA at the crank combo, spraying 150 shot. Would that be ok for a 600hp power adder system or is the 1200 system required.
nitrohemi
Well-Known Member
quick question. I'm looking at the two power adder fitechs going to be making just under 600 horsepower on 8 pounds boost. should I go wiith the 1200 hp unit or would I be okay with the 600. the other question is can I use this on a new motor breakin or should I use a carb to break in the motor then switch to the efi
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
If you do that you have electrically bypassed the coil resistor. With engine running, measure voltage at coil+ It bet it is same as battery "running" voltage.
cwirth7
Well-Known Member
Half tempted to just wire it to a switch at the battery
As we talked about through email, I would try this, and lets get it running with the timing control...I think we're chasing tails over a simple 12v constant. If you need me to call them, email me or call me.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Have you actually checked that your ignition switch / wiring / ballast is actually hooked up and working properly?
OTHER guys have hooked these up. I don't know what the differences are..............in their installs
I'll throw out some answers to the last round of unanswered questions.
Q. Can a new engine be broke in with the fitech?
A. Yes you can. This is only limited by your confidence level in your build, and your wiring. If both are problem free, and you want to break in a new engine with the fitech, go for it. If this is your first rodeo with either efi, and/or and engine swap (and you have a carb lying around) you can tackle them separately. Up to your discretion.
Q. Is the 600 hp rating, before nitrous?
A.The power levels are N/a hp. Since a power adder like nitrous would be a wet kit, the extra fuel would be added also. So...a 550hp engine with a 150 shot is not 200hp over the 600's limit. That being said, leave room for expansion.
Last dealeo is cwirths trouble shooting. Putting the switched 12v directly to the bat would eliminate all the guess work to make sure the units getting power.
I also have some detailed rpm signal tests to make sure the tach signal is working properly. If wirth needs them, he has my number.
The above info is free of charge 8) lol. Good luck to all. Call or pm with more questions.
Q. Can a new engine be broke in with the fitech?
A. Yes you can. This is only limited by your confidence level in your build, and your wiring. If both are problem free, and you want to break in a new engine with the fitech, go for it. If this is your first rodeo with either efi, and/or and engine swap (and you have a carb lying around) you can tackle them separately. Up to your discretion.
Q. Is the 600 hp rating, before nitrous?
A.The power levels are N/a hp. Since a power adder like nitrous would be a wet kit, the extra fuel would be added also. So...a 550hp engine with a 150 shot is not 200hp over the 600's limit. That being said, leave room for expansion.
Last dealeo is cwirths trouble shooting. Putting the switched 12v directly to the bat would eliminate all the guess work to make sure the units getting power.
I also have some detailed rpm signal tests to make sure the tach signal is working properly. If wirth needs them, he has my number.
The above info is free of charge 8) lol. Good luck to all. Call or pm with more questions.
340Duster247
Well-Known Member
Thank you. That's what I thought. But when spending this kind of money it's best to double check.
cwirth7
Well-Known Member
We got it going with the ign wire jumped right to the positive post the other day as Johnny suggested. Today I went ahead and wired to a switch and it works great. As for the other guys getting it going. Didn't see anyone else posting using Ma Mopar ignition.
Johnny, Ill get a hold of you if something else seems weird. Thanks again.
have a few of the 30002's back in stock as of this moment.
still awaiting the command centers to land. thats scheduled for next week.
anyone that had just a FTH-30002 on an order, it shipped out today.
still awaiting the command centers to land. thats scheduled for next week.
anyone that had just a FTH-30002 on an order, it shipped out today.
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