FiTech EFI system

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I'm having a weird issue with my power adder. All trouble shooting points back to the unit. Ran great for a week. Now it just cuts off for no reason. It's hard to crank afterwards too. Seems to be something with tach signal. I have an msd ignition. Took it out of the loop. It got worse with the unit running the ignition. I've tested about wire and ground. No luck. The car is simply undrivable right. The first week got me hooked. I want the efi. Not sure what to think now.
 
Hard to crank could be a power issue ? I wound up changing my alt to a denso unit to supply the power it wanted at idle. Check the not running voltage at the main power feed. And then again when idling.

I also run an msd unit. My main power feed is right from the battery. When I had it hooked up to my underdash junction box, it would not get enough power.

Some suggestions, hope they help!
 
ken5124 said:
Hard to crank could be a power issue ? I wound up changing my alt to a denso unit to supply the power it wanted at idle. Check the not running voltage at the main power feed. And then again when idling.

I also run an msd unit. My main power feed is right from the battery. When I had it hooked up to my underdash junction box, it would not get enough power.

Some suggestions, hope they help!
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so ken if I understand correctly there is a main power wire and a key switched wire also ?
 
Ken5124, I have a new chrysler style 1 wire alternator. I've checked everything twice. But after looking things over again I think it's loosing tach signal. I tried it without the msd box and it's worse. It's pointing me to my dizzy. It's an msd too and did the ohm check. It checked out good but I'm still going to swap in another. I've also swapped in a new coil with no change. Really crossing my fingers it's the dizzy. It ran crazy good the first week I had it running.
 
So besides the EFI - command center - return vent line any additional cost to this to speak of -- can I be all in for $1500
 
I've shown interest in this system too, as we have doing many efi swaps. This system offers 3 attractive things besides the price. ECU in the throttle body, pwm signal from the ecu and an internal regulator. However, I've emailed this company and left a message for them. Neither have been returned.
 
russhal said:
Ken5124, I have a new chrysler style 1 wire alternator. I've checked everything twice. But after looking things over again I think it's loosing tach signal. I tried it without the msd box and it's worse. It's pointing me to my dizzy. It's an msd too and did the ohm check. It checked out good but I'm still going to swap in another. I've also swapped in a new coil with no change. Really crossing my fingers it's the dizzy. It ran crazy good the first week I had it running.
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My initial thought is that your one wire alternator is not charging at lower rpm/s and perhaps your battery got drained somewhat over the week it was in use ?? Not an electrical guru, but I would check the voltage output at idle. I think some of those 1 wire alternator's require a certain rpm to "excite" When you ran it last week was it just in the garage, or out on the road for a while?

Sorry just guessing without knowing exactly how everything is wired.

The fitech handheld, if you scroll several pages over from the first dashboard page, will display what voltage the system is seeing.
 
GMachineDartGT said:
I've shown interest in this system too, as we have doing many efi swaps. This system offers 3 attractive things besides the price. ECU in the throttle body, pwm signal from the ecu and an internal regulator. However, I've emailed this company and left a message for them. Neither have been returned.
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I had the same issue, and just wound up calling direct. I always got an answer on the phone.. and an occasional call back from the owner if needed. The receptionist Karen is very good at finding someone to take the call.
 
ken5124, It was my dizzy. My one wire alternator works great. The car runs perfect now. FiTech is easy to get on the phone and very helpful. They told me from the beginning it sounded like tach signal loss. I had a hard time believing it was my dizzy because its only 2 years old. My experience with mag pick up is either it works or doesn't. A lot of people on the web have had problems with the msd pro billet in all brands. I put a new factory one from advance in and its golden.
 
Would like to know If anyone has used it with nitrous yet. Ordering mine this week
 
russhal said:
ken5124, It was my dizzy. My one wire alternator works great. The car runs perfect now. FiTech is easy to get on the phone and very helpful. They told me from the beginning it sounded like tach signal loss. I had a hard time believing it was my dizzy because its only 2 years old. My experience with mag pick up is either it works or doesn't. A lot of people on the web have had problems with the msd pro billet in all brands. I put a new factory one from advance in and its golden.
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is anyone else having a problem with the msd pro billet and what would be causing a weak signal ? the pickup coil?
 
JimJimJimmy, only 2 places you get your signal from. Ignition box or coil. If they're good, you have to go to the trigger which is the dizzy. It made me pull my hair out! Google msd pro billet distributor problem. It's very common.
 
Just wanted to add this, I spoke with FITech again yesterday, couple questions. The customer service is the best I have ever experienced, fantastic, they will help you through anything. I was literally told " If you have any problems I'll spend all day on the phone with you to get it right", and they never made me fell like I should know this or that. It almost compares to Johnny's help here. Do not be afraid, make the jump, and buy it from Johnnymac. Or don't because I like being the only one on the block with it.
 
Call again today and spoke to someone about these. They are currently out of stock, but it sounds like a good system and easier to install than others. We used the edelbrock version of the command center on a Grand Wagoneer last summer and it worked well. For the cars we are a Tanks Inc dealer. Unfortunately FITECH has no dealer pricing which is strange.
 
Thanks for the kind words phil.

Gt machine, I had units and command centers in stock as of this morning.

I also stock those edelbrock pump dumps you mention if you like those Better.

I also combo the units and pumps/or cc. To save you guys around $50. I'd extend that break to the edelbrock pump if you want it.

Anyways. Glad to help with questions also. Just didnt want to keep "selling myself" lol. Some prefer to speak directly to the mfg. And I understand that! Still glad to help though. Thanks guys.
 
It makes it tough on small business / dealers with no dealer pricing. On the other hand they have come in so hard and fast to sidestep the other companies like Edelbrock with a product that actually is quality AND packed with features, ease of install and use, at an incredible half the price! I can see how with dealer pricing they have decided this is it, that's the bottom dollar period.
I believe FITech really hit on a great philosophy, we all know Edelbrock could have charged $1000 for their product, electronics are cheap, but did they, no, they kept asking to make 100 percent profit until someone like FITech came along and shoved it in their face. Then when someone decides to take them on guess what, all of a sudden, Edelbrock has magically found a way to sell one cheaper. There was an old quote, "McDonalds didn't get rich selling a five dollar hamburger". Better to make 50 cents selling billions on billions than 3.50 on thousands.
 
johnnymac2k6 said:
Thanks for the kind words phil.

Gt machine, I had units and command centers in stock as of this morning.

I also stock those edelbrock pump dumps you mention if you like those Better.

I also combo the units and pumps/or cc. To save you guys around $50. I'd extend that break to the edelbrock pump if you want it.

Anyways. Glad to help with questions also. Just didnt want to keep "selling myself" lol. Some prefer to speak directly to the mfg. And I understand that! Still glad to help though. Thanks guys.
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Who are you?
 
PhillH said:
It makes it tough on small business / dealers with no dealer pricing. On the other hand they have come in so hard and fast to sidestep the other companies like Edelbrock with a product that actually is quality AND packed with features, ease of install and use, at an incredible half the price! I can see how with dealer pricing they have decided this is it, that's the bottom dollar period.
I believe FITech really hit on a great philosophy, we all know Edelbrock could have charged $1000 for their product, electronics are cheap, but did they, no, they kept asking to make 100 percent profit until someone like FITech came along and shoved it in their face. Then when someone decides to take them on guess what, all of a sudden, Edelbrock has magically found a way to sell one cheaper. There was an old quote, "McDonalds didn't get rich selling a five dollar hamburger". Better to make 50 cents selling billions on billions than 3.50 on thousands.
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Edelbrock or Holley
 
What are you guys using for a fuel pump with a return?
 
Bonz said:
What are you guys using for a fuel pump with a return?
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The FCC can dead head into the unit with only the vent line running back to the tank.

The little frame rail pump can be used with a return line out the rear of the unit, and no regulator is needed.
 
johnnymac2k6 said:
The FCC can dead head into the unit with only the vent line running back to the tank.

The little frame rail pump can be used with a return line out the rear of the unit, and no regulator is needed.
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Is there such a thing as "too much pump"? I currently have a 400lph in tank pump. Also, what are the recommended fuel line/return line sizes?
 
Hey johnny I had some questions I was gunna PM you but I figured I'd put it in here in case any other's are wondering.

With the electric fuel pump side kit, do you know if it will pass nhra tech? I plan on making some passes at the nearby track this summer. I know "woven push lock" hose can pass. Just wondering if their's will.

Now this next question might have been asked or could be on their tech sheets, so forgive me if I ask again. Can I run timing but keep my outside ignition box? I think I've seen you say that you can run MSD for spark but have the FItech unit control timing. I have a rev-n-nator box that I like, but eventually I would like the FI unit to control timing.

And a final third question lol. I am going to change my exhaust and run crankcase evac into the exhaust itself. I imagine I have to put the evac down wind from the fi unit or the evac could play with the O2 sensor. But I'm wondering if anyone has run this setup and has it caused any problems, say when there is a little more back pressure and the evac doesn't exhaust as quick.

That's about all I've thought about lately. Thanks Johnny for all your help on this stuff.
 
Bonz said:
Is there such a thing as "too much pump"? I currently have a 400lph in tank pump. Also, what are the recommended fuel line/return line sizes?
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6AN Is what most guys use. Seems to be plenty for efi to support the power.
The in tank pump is a great idea. We typically sell the aeromotive drop in pumps. But they are more $ than both the fcc or frame rail pump. But yes I prefer and like the in tank pumps also. Definitely keep it if u got it, as long as its over 58 psi.
 
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