FiTech EFI system

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I would definitely try leaning the idle and 3k 45kpa settings to pass smog - look for 14.3~14.5 or so, but if you get a lean stumble or misfire you might get into HC trouble.

I had the same issue with hot starts. Mine was two fold: I had a sparkplug wire that was arcing and causing interference with the unit. Check your fault codes and see if you get "RPM NOISE" listed. If not, then it's likely start enrichment and priming.

You can up the fuel for the cranking fuel at 170, but that's fuel added only during crank. You may try upping the prime fuel by increasing Prime Fuel Mult. I maxxed mine out and it wouldn't fire right away - I'd have to hold the throttle just slightly open - I then reduced the Prime Fuel Mult every couple starts (driving in between hot starts) by 5 until I didn't need to crack open the throttle much at all and finally none. You can also try holding the throttle open a bit more than ~50% when cranking to get the computer to toss more fuel in the mix. It's a quick way to determine if you need more fuel during hot cranks.

You may need to look at your IAC steps at idle too, make sure they're not too high - you adjust the idle screw to get the IAC steps correct. It's best to open the idle with the key off, then fire it up and back the idle down until you're between 5 and 15 IAC steps at your desired idle. Once you have that done, it's easier to set the cranking IAC settings. If you're already at 50+ steps at idle, it'll be tough to get things dialed in for cranking. I have my cranking IAC pretty open. It fires up to 1200 rpm right away then settles to 850 within 3-5 seconds...
 
I have a possible solution to the MSD compatibility issues people seem to be having. Havent seen it mentioned so excuse me i its been covered. I was talking to tech on a different issue about stock distributors and FBO module. If you use an MSD or MSD type of distributor, you need a rotor thats fazed 10* advanced or it wont allow FITech to control timing. It "will cause all kinds of problems" according to tech. Hope this helps alleviate some of the issues with the MSD distributor.
 
I am testing some FBO parts for Don, the owner, to see whats going to work with injection. He has lots of calls asking about running injection with his module. If anybody has any experience with FBO module and FITech system, I/He would be very interested in how it works. PM me or there is a thread I started in small block asking for input.
 
I was running one of the white billet boxes, but I had this weird issue where the RPM would spike and be all over the place. Went back to an older box of his that still used a ballast and RPM issues went away.
 
Finally managed to get some street miles on mine this past weekend when some great weather moved in! I did have my concerns with the setup when all I could do is have it idling in the garage during the winter months but I can honestly say feeling much happier with the purchase now that I am able to get some street miles on it and you can definately tell the more you drive it the more it self learns :thumleft:
The biggest thing I would still like to improve is my dead cold idle as it will only idle at about 1050-1150 and seems like its kinda chugging there until it gets some heat in the motor. So far my idle AFR's are 13.2-13.5 dead cold, 13.6-13.8 @ about 140-160 deg and 13.7-13.9 @170 deg plus.
My cruising/highway AFR is 14.1-14.3 @ about 3200-3300 RPM (got 3.91 gears....lol). I have no idea if those AFR's are acceptable but love the throttle response from the system and not having to worry about how much gas to give it or where to hold throttle to start with a carb is a nice change....:headbang:
 
Just ordered the mean street from Johnny at Pace Performance. Going to put it on my nephew's Cuda. It will be replacing a Holley 950 ultra HP on a 499. We will be taking it to Drag Week so that ought to be about a good of a test as anything! I asked Johnny about how many miles before it has "learned enough" to be consistent, he said after a couple hundred should be good to go. Well see
 
Johnny Pace said:
Just wanted to throw out a reminder that there are 2 systems that do NOT have timing control.

The mean street 800 does NOT have it.
http://paceperformance.com/i-238356...inish-basic-system-100-00-mail-in-rebate.html

The incoming 400 go-street, also does not have it.
http://paceperformance.com/i-238356...em-with-cast-finish-75-00-mail-in-rebate.html

These are the two systems that would require you to have a alternate source of ignition, whether it be oem box, CDI style box, and DUI style ready to run distributor.

Just a reminder, Thanks!
Click to expand...

A couple things:

1). Do all other systems have timing control?

2). "These are the two systems that would require you to have a alternate source of ignition, whether it be oem box, CDI style box, and DUI style ready to run distributor."

Is this to indicate that - outside of the above FiTech's - the others have an ignition system built-in?
 
QMopar said:
A couple things:

1). Do all other systems have timing control?

2). "These are the two systems that would require you to have a alternate source of ignition, whether it be oem box, CDI style box, and DUI style ready to run distributor."

Is this to indicate that - outside of the above FiTech's - the others have an ignition system built-in?
Click to expand...

Yes and Yes, The timing control/built in ignition controller are one in the same. You can run an outside ignition with any of them. However, the 400 and 800 actually require it. The others you can run without any outside igniton (whether it be msd, mopar oem, or hei)
 
Hyper Henry said:
Finally managed to get some street miles on mine this past weekend when some great weather moved in! I did have my concerns with the setup when all I could do is have it idling in the garage during the winter months but I can honestly say feeling much happier with the purchase now that I am able to get some street miles on it and you can definately tell the more you drive it the more it self learns :thumleft:
The biggest thing I would still like to improve is my dead cold idle as it will only idle at about 1050-1150 and seems like its kinda chugging there until it gets some heat in the motor. So far my idle AFR's are 13.2-13.5 dead cold, 13.6-13.8 @ about 140-160 deg and 13.7-13.9 @170 deg plus.
My cruising/highway AFR is 14.1-14.3 @ about 3200-3300 RPM (got 3.91 gears....lol). I have no idea if those AFR's are acceptable but love the throttle response from the system and not having to worry about how much gas to give it or where to hold throttle to start with a carb is a nice change....:headbang:
Click to expand...

I was having some inconsistencies with the idle too,but seem to have fixed it.

What I did after it was working pretty good was to reset the idle fuel learning, then I increased the "idle fuel learn rate" to near max and then watched the "dashboard" display while tracking the fuel trim. Once the learned fuel seemed to settle near a fairly consistent value, I reduced the learn rate back to about 10. Then I tweaked the idle control "loop rates" so that it could self adjust well. I also took note of the ranges things tended to operate in and bracketed the idle values by about 20 in the min and max.

I also altered the trim rate on the idle fuel to reduce how much the afr jumped at idle. I tweaked it until the engine sounded smooth. My afr swing at idle went from 12.9/16.5 to 13.9/14.5 with a target of 14.2 and there was no noticeable change in the engine sound as the computer swings the afr back and forth.

Your idle and cruise afr sound fine. I kept leaning my cruise target until I got a slight hesitation on tip-in, then dropped the target by .3. I think I'm around 14.9 cruise afr.

In order for all this to work right, I had to ensure the engine was fully warm while making changes and the idle screw and idle timing were set and not changed with the iac count around 8-15.

It takes time, and you should take notes of where things are or make backups of your Cal before making tweaks. Also take advantage of the data logging to narrow in on where things need to be addressed.

If all else fails, call fitech.
 
Johnny Pace said:
Just wanted to throw out a reminder that there are 2 systems that do NOT have timing control.

The mean street 800 does NOT have it.
http://paceperformance.com/i-238356...inish-basic-system-100-00-mail-in-rebate.html

The incoming 400 go-street, also does not have it.
http://paceperformance.com/i-238356...em-with-cast-finish-75-00-mail-in-rebate.html

These are the two systems that would require you to have a alternate source of ignition, whether it be oem box, CDI style box, and DUI style ready to run distributor.

Just a reminder, Thanks!
Click to expand...

Well that kills my plans ,half the reason I want the damn thing is the timing control , the other is that the 600 hp unit is too borderline for the upgrades I am planning for my current stroker.Not the news I was looking for when I logged on tonight after coming home from the accountant telling me yes Revenue Canada was going to pay for my Meanstreet.
 
Phreakish said:
I was having some inconsistencies with the idle too,but seem to have fixed it.

What I did after it was working pretty good was to reset the idle fuel learning, then I increased the "idle fuel learn rate" to near max and then watched the "dashboard" display while tracking the fuel trim. Once the learned fuel seemed to settle near a fairly consistent value, I reduced the learn rate back to about 10. Then I tweaked the idle control "loop rates" so that it could self adjust well. I also took note of the ranges things tended to operate in and bracketed the idle values by about 20 in the min and max.

I also altered the trim rate on the idle fuel to reduce how much the afr jumped at idle. I tweaked it until the engine sounded smooth. My afr swing at idle went from 12.9/16.5 to 13.9/14.5 with a target of 14.2 and there was no noticeable change in the engine sound as the computer swings the afr back and forth.

Your idle and cruise afr sound fine. I kept leaning my cruise target until I got a slight hesitation on tip-in, then dropped the target by .3. I think I'm around 14.9 cruise afr.

In order for all this to work right, I had to ensure the engine was fully warm while making changes and the idle screw and idle timing were set and not changed with the iac count around 8-15.

It takes time, and you should take notes of where things are or make backups of your Cal before making tweaks. Also take advantage of the data logging to narrow in on where things need to be addressed.

If all else fails, call fitech.
Click to expand...

Thanks Phreakish! I am going to try and get some more street miles on it then start tweaking. I am not very techy with this kinda stuff so may have some more questions for yeah :thumleft:
 
cannucky said:
Well that kills my plans ,half the reason I want the damn thing is the timing control , the other is that the 600 hp unit is too borderline for the upgrades I am planning for my current stroker.Not the news I was looking for when I logged on tonight after coming home from the accountant telling me yes Revenue Canada was going to pay for my Meanstreet.
Click to expand...

Sorry To break the bubble. Unfortunately if you need timing control, and have over 600hp, you're looking at the 1200 unit. I know that's not what you want to hear, but the 800 unit was designed for customers who run a HEI, or a CDI box, and have over 600hp. Or at least thats the reason i was given. I wanted to remind the forum that the 800 doesn't have it, as most assume it does.
 
Johnny Pace said:
Sorry To break the bubble. Unfortunately if you need timing control, and have over 600hp, you're looking at the 1200 unit. I know that's not what you want to hear, but the 800 unit was designed for customers who run a HEI, or a CDI box, and have over 600hp. Or at least thats the reason i was given. I wanted to remind the forum that the 800 doesn't have it, as most assume it does.
Click to expand...

What are the advantages/disadvantages to having the Fitech control timing? I have the MSD setup with 6A box. Mild 340 street driven, is the timing control necessary?
 
plumkrazee70 said:
What are the advantages/disadvantages to having the Fitech control timing? I have the MSD setup with 6A box. Mild 340 street driven, is the timing control necessary?
Click to expand...

The advantages of the fitech controlling the timing are basically the same as your MSD setup.

removal of the oem computer, ballast, wiring.
More compact and efficient.

If you're happy with your MSD, then so am I. I have no issued with using a CDI box, and it opens up the window to the 800, and 400 systems.

If you were starting with a stock car, and wanted to eliminate the oem setup, then there's more incentive to buy the 600 or 1200, because you don't NEED to purchase a box also.
 
Johnny Pace said:
The advantages of the fitech controlling the timing are basically the same as your MSD setup.

removal of the oem computer, ballast, wiring.
More compact and efficient.

If you're happy with your MSD, then so am I. I have no issued with using a CDI box, and it opens up the window to the 800, and 400 systems.

If you were starting with a stock car, and wanted to eliminate the oem setup, then there's more incentive to buy the 600 or 1200, because you don't NEED to purchase a box also.
Click to expand...

That makes sense. So if I sold the MSD stuff, would I just need electronic ignition or HEI along with the FiTech 600?
 
,No the 600 can replace the hei or cdi box with it's internal controller ,the other advantage which is the one I want is the ability to precisely control your timing through the handheld programmer instead of setting up a curve in the msd distributor using the bushing and springs .
 
plumkrazee70 said:
That makes sense. So if I sold the MSD stuff, would I just need electronic ignition or HEI along with the FiTech 600?
Click to expand...

to run the 600, you could eliminate the msd box.
You would need to lock out the stock distributor, or get one with no advance.

the HEI comment above is incorrect.
1. HEI distributors replace a brain box...whether it be oem or cdi style
2. an hei distributor will NOT work with the timing control on the fitech.

if you read back a few pages i get into more detail about all of this.

pretend your starting with a 100% oem mopar.
using the 600 eliminates the need for any brain/cdi box and ballast resistor. But the locking the the distributor is required (or i think the guys have figured out a lean burn distributor comes this way out of the box)

does that clear it all up?
 
Johnny Pace said:
to run the 600, you could eliminate the msd box.
You would need to lock out the stock distributor, or get one with no advance.

the HEI comment above is incorrect.
1. HEI distributors replace a brain box...whether it be oem or cdi style
2. an hei distributor will NOT work with the timing control on the fitech.

if you read back a few pages i get into more detail about all of this.

pretend your starting with a 100% oem mopar.
using the 600 eliminates the need for any brain/cdi box and ballast resistor. But the locking the the distributor is required (or i think the guys have figured out a lean burn distributor comes this way out of the box)

does that clear it all up?
Click to expand...

I believe it does. Thank you for your support!
 
First post ever, so please be gentle. Ordered a Meanstreet 800 about a month ago directly from FITech and it should be here next week. Sorry Johnny, I was not aware of your business when I hit the button, but I'm putting it on my 'Cuda, not a DeLorean, so I can't go back in time. I told Ken from FITech that I have a 6A-L and an MSD E-Curve distributor. He told me that there was no advantage at all to timing control unless I was running boost, so he recommended I get the Meanstreet 800. I called back again and talked to Kenny and he told me the exact same thing. Then I talked to Brice, and he agreed. I live down the street from a place called Kammer and Kammer. Ran it by a guy there who has installed quite a few and he also agreed that timing control is a waste of time unless I run boost. It will be going on a fairly hot small-block stroker with CNC'd Eddy heads and a solid flat tapped 248/252 cam. Runs low 11s at 119 in my otherwise fairly stock 'Cuda with 3.91s and a tight 10" converter. I've been told my cam size will not be an issue. I will keep you guys posted as it comes together. I'd like to thank Johnny and everyone else for all of the info on this thread, as I'm sure it will come in handy.
 
Hello 69 cuda. The biggest thing to note with the timing control statement...remember those guys are used to dealing with small block chevy (Hei).
Is there an advantage to an hei vs the fitech timing or vice versa? Not especislly. Is the fitech control better than an msd 6AL? No.
. BUT!, is ANYTHING better than the problematic oem chrysler ignition? You bet. Having raced and owned many mopars, any excuse to throw the ballast resistor and box in the trash is a good one. (In my opinion and experience) so where as the timing control may not be some super fancy ignition controller, its better than oem...which is good enough for most.
 
The biggest thing I like about the timing control? That you press a button and change your total timing. Running it on the dyno and wanna see what more or less total will do? Press a button. It should help cut back on time really dialing the setup in. The running boost thing is just another bonus.
 
I am not utilizing the timing control on my fitech but have had a terrible time with my msd pro billet distributor. I'm running a factory distributor right now because my msd is unreliable. Pretty much rebuilt it with no change in out come. Anyone else having msd distributor problems? Sorry for cutting in on this thread but I'm just trying to figure out why it won't work. FiTech is awesome and has greatly changed the drivabilty of my car.
 
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