FiTech EFI system

-
Thanks for the replies! Excellent alternative choices listed above. I knew I should have come here first. I'll wait it out for one more week, seeing it's been roasting hot outside. Not ideal cruising weather with the top down and black vinyl seats.
 
Anyone have an issue with the clamps for the O2 senser bung. I have 2 1/2 inch exhaust and with the clamps as tight as they could go, I could put two fingers between the clams and the pipe.
 
jaws said:
Anyone have an issue with the clamps for the O2 senser bung. I have 2 1/2 inch exhaust and with the clamps as tight as they could go, I could put two fingers between the clams and the pipe.
Click to expand...
I have mine in a header tube and had to use smaller clamps. Sometimes it not a one size fits all I guess
 
Not seeing any talk about this set up but I'm running the FiTech with the FiTech external fuel pump set up that I purchased from Pace. The Pace set up includes a corvette fuel filter with a built in bypass and the system is fed from a fuel cell. The bypass filter is important because it eliminates the return line from the front of the car.

The pump is a lot quieter then the one it replaced but its on a race only car so I cant hear but then I couldn't hear the old one when the car is running either.

My system is set up like this. Its fed from the fuel cell through a screen filter, to FiTech filter, through the fuel pump and then to the corvette filter. This all mounted on a plated and runs across the back of the car between the bumper and fuel cell. The bypass line is about 10" long. Way up at the front is another FiTech supplied fuel filter

The two bungs on the fuel cell are next to each other so a line is installed inside the tank to direct the return fuel as far away from the feed port as possible. If you have bungs welded to a tank, keep that in mind.

Have a great day
 
I decided on the Tanks Inc option as opposed to waiting for the FCC any longer. Got the entire setup (new tank, in tank pump, and new sending unit) for $500 even. Only $18 for standard shipping and rec'd it in two days. Very impressed. Tank is silver powder coated, really nice.

A little more work to install the tank but my FiTech was already installed so once I ran a new return line I was good to go. For now I just used Earl's Super Stock fuel line, I'll probably use solid or braided later to make it look better (winter project).

My car: '67 Barracuda 383 Edelbrock 7194 cam, 2800 stall, 4.11 gear. Had a Edlebrock Perfromer 750cfm carb.

Ok so I got it installed last night, primed it as the instructions say and it fired right up. Initially it was a little hard starting and idle was pretty rough. Adjusted the idle screw, rpm was a little unstable at first (up and down). Once it ran for a little bit I hit the throttle and the response was instant! Never experienced that before with my carb. Took the Barracuda for a ride and OMG what a difference! I thought the carb was pretty good before but the FiTech EFI put it to shame. The car took off so smoothly and accelerated beautifully. Immediate difference. My buddy took the ride with me and noticed it as well. After about a 20 minute drive I stopped completely and jumped on it, holy crap off the line was so much better. Laid down a great patch. My tires never squealed like that from a dead stop before, I would have to lock the front brakes some before taking off like that. I will say this, the FiTech has exceeded my expectations so far (knock on wood). I have a ways to go as far as breaking it in but if the system runs like this and is reliable over the long haul I can't imagine ever wanting to back to a carburetor!

Question for those that have been running theirs for a while. I need to clean up the install (wiring etc). If I disconnect the battery will I lose what it's learned so far? Is there a way of backing it up and downloading so I don't?

Thanks... (I'll post pics later)
 
Before you disconnect power completely you write the setting to the handheld then reload it to the ecu when you power back up. Scroll down on the menu to see those functions. For those running off the tach not FItech timing it defaults back to FItech timing and you have to switch it back every time you save or reload
 
fklskv said:
Before you disconnect power completely you write the setting to the handheld then reload it to the ecu when you power back up. Scroll down on the menu to see those functions. For those running off the tach not FItech timing it defaults back to FItech timing and you have to switch it back every time you save or reload
Click to expand...

Is this the option you're speaking of? Will this option backup all settings and "learned" parameters?

Also I'm running off the tach (no timing control) and the initial setting was "Tach", are you saying that changes to "2 Wire+ Coil" when power is removed?

Thanks.
20160806_105642 (Small).jpg
 
Every time I save or load in a map I have to put the ignition setting back to "tach" from 2 wire coil setting. I think the default is not "tach" at least on mine anyways
 
I like that tank setup, I'm wishing I went that route instead.

And I really wish the wires on the handheld came with a 90 degree end, or came up the bottom. Seems odd they come out of the top.
 
72Duster440 said:
I like that tank setup, I'm wishing I went that route instead.

And I really wish the wires on the handheld came with a 90 degree end, or came up the bottom. Seems odd they come out of the top.
Click to expand...

I'm glad I went the Tanks Inc route in the end...

At a local cruise night last night, a few guys were asking me about the FiTech system and how I liked it. By the end of the night word spread around and many more coming over to my car to see it. :)
 
MomsDuster said:
Curious, how did you ran the tank vent?
Click to expand...

I tee'd the efi tank vent and in tank pump vent to the new rollover vent device and mounted that to the frame as high as I could just above the tank (~6" or so). I also kept the original filler neck vent in place.
 
For the people not running headers, where would the ideal location be on the o2 sensor? Close to the manifolds on the vertical run of the pipe or farther down to the horizontal run of the exhaust?
And on another note.. if the dist was originally ran through a coolant temp vacuum switch, should that be bypassed or run in series with the switch. This is on the base model fitech that does not control timing.
 
Last edited:
mike heasley said:
For the people not running headers, where would the ideal location be on the o2 sensor? Close to the manifolds on the vertical run of the pipe or farther down to the horizontal run of the exhaust?
And on another note.. if the dist was originally ran through a coolant temp vacuum switch, should that be bypassed or run in series with the switch. This is on the base model fitech that does not control timing.
Click to expand...

I'd personally get it as close to the horizontal section as possible and make sure it's mounted off the horizon as indicated in the instructions. You can however run it in either location if needed (we have had a few customers who due to space limitations have had to mount them in a primary tube, or vertically) mounting it further down stream just gives it some extra time to blend/burn if you will.

on the distributor note...I can't imagine or picture a distributor being wired into a temp switch....am i reading that right? If it's a stock style distributor you're more than likely going to experience tach signal issues. even with a 400 unit.
almost every one of these i sell gets a distributor. HERE--->
Distributors
 
Last edited:
Yes its a vac switch to cutout advance till certain coolant temp is reached. Its the joy of working on 80's mopar emissions technology. And the horizontal run on the exhaust is more ideal for my application, which sounds like you are saying is a little better location than close to the manifold. The pace distributor is my backup plan if I can not get the clean signal.
 
mike heasley said:
Yes its a vac switch to cutout advance till certain coolant temp is reached. Its the joy of working on 80's mopar emissions technology. And the horizontal run on the exhaust is more ideal for my application, which sounds like you are saying is a little better location than close to the manifold. The pace distributor is my backup plan if I can not get the clean signal.
Click to expand...
Sounds good! I admit my lean burn technology knowledge is well sub-par.lol my numerous mopar builds have involved placing stock ignition components abruptly in the trash can...but...I can lock a distributor and install a MSD box in about 3 minutes flat however :p
 
I've got a few hundred miles on the system so far and absolutely love it. Took it to Woodward for pre Dream Cruise activities, had to sit in grid lock traffic for a bit, it never skipped a beat. It used to load up all the time of it idled for extended periods with the carb.

My question is, with all of the logging it can do, is there a way to add a vehicle speed sensor to it to also log speed. Or to create a way to do performance data like the SRT vehicles have built in?
 
I've had the FiTech and FCC on my 440 Coronet now for about two months and unfortunately I have not had success with it. The unit will not reliably start; stranded me again today; first two starts were fine.
Original problem was hot start; turned the idle screw to lower the warm idle IAC to < 10; decreased the FCC PWM to 40. Increased the Crank fuel. Had to do a system reset a couple weeks ago. The prime shot turns on, engine wants to run for about 1 - 2 seconds, then no fuel. I talk to FiTech every week - I know Cody by voice at this point. Very frustrating. Only put 400 miles on in 2 months because I don't trust it.
Well, it's been a couple of hours, going to drive back to the parking lot and see if the car will start. Guess I'll call Cody again tomorrow....
 
RBConvert said:
I've had the FiTech and FCC on my 440 Coronet now for about two months and unfortunately I have not had success with it. The unit will not reliably start; stranded me again today; first two starts were fine.
Original problem was hot start; turned the idle screw to lower the warm idle IAC to < 10; decreased the FCC PWM to 40. Increased the Crank fuel. Had to do a system reset a couple weeks ago. The prime shot turns on, engine wants to run for about 1 - 2 seconds, then no fuel. I talk to FiTech every week - I know Cody by voice at this point. Very frustrating. Only put 400 miles on in 2 months because I don't trust it.
Well, it's been a couple of hours, going to drive back to the parking lot and see if the car will start. Guess I'll call Cody again tomorrow....
Click to expand...


Getting stranded is the scary part, something I worry about. Is the "no fuel" part of the problem with the FCC or throttle body unit?

Anyone else who has been running theirs longer term have any issues like this?

Thanks.
 
Are you picking up a tach signal? Sounds like your not if the car starts and quits.

Whenever I save or reload a map it reverts back to the default ignition setting. Then I go in and change it back to tach as I'm not using FITech timing.
 
Last edited:
Don't know if this is the cause of any ones problems. I have followed and posted on a few different FiTech forums and a recurring problem I see is poor connections.

We could help ourselves out by soldering and heat shrinking all connections. Tee taps and crimp connectors are only asking for problems. This at least gives you a fighting chance

Larry
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top