FiTech EFI system

-
ken5124 said:
Or, try the one I mentioned earlier first--- Just in case it fits in your application.?
( realizing that some will want a deeper drop than I used)
I made no alterations, just turned the base so the indents cleared the fuel inlet.. and no issues with the linkage .. In my circumstance.
Click to expand...

you're running a FCC also, correct? worth noting that some will need a fuel line in AND out. Where the FCC is dead headed to the TB.
 
Yes, 1 inlet only. Running both could be problematic, but with 90 degree fittings would be interesting to see if it would work
 
Non-resistor spark plugs.

Anybody have any feedback on these and the Fitech setup? I'm looking for a colder NGK non protruding plug for my turbo setup and everything I find is non-resistor. I'm concerned they might interfere with the ECU.
 
All,

The FiTech and a Holley both are 3.5" from base to top flange. The Choke horn is quite a bit taller but sits in the air cleaner assy. So we will see how it goes, I'll chech in the SB Forum and see what guys are doing with the Air GAP in a late model Dart.

Marion
 
Underside Drop Air FiTech.JPG
Drop Air Fit Fitech.JPG
FiTech Mock Up.JPG
All,
Every once in a while things fall into place. I bought this Dart 18 months ago and only drove it twice before pulling the motor. So after todays talk about air cleaners, air gaps, fitechs I went out and put the FI on my new engine. So then I grabbed the air cleaner that came with the car. Usual chrome 360 air cleaner, but wait it has a drop bottom in it! I put is on the FiTech and it fits and clears the 45 deg. fuel fitting coming out of the Drivers rears fuel port. Not by much but it's a go. Also it sets flush on the top of the throttle body. So worst case I may need to get a thinner air filter to clear the hood.

FYI,
Marion
 
New information on Vacuum port on regulator: ( I think)

I don't think this has been discussed on this forum yet, but I guess recent Throttle bodies are coming out with a vacuum line connected to the throttle body regulator nipple to manifold vacuum. Found this out on the Chevelle site.
Quote:
Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro January 6, 2017 at 7:48 am Reply
"I recommend the use of vacuum on the regulator as it lowers fuel pressure under a low load situation. This will help the EFI adapt to your engine better."

Interesting.. will try it in the spring. And disappointing they aren't notifying all earlier purchasers of this "better" setup.

And seeing I run the FCC, i wonder if the regulator in both the Throttle body and the FCC need a vacuum signal. I have posted the question on the Fitech site.

Ken
 
Last edited:
I was hook, line and sinker on buying a FITech. Sadly I found the Facebook FiTech (not official) page. After a few hours on that page, you'd bet 1 of 2000 units actually work. Lots of guys on there regretting not having a PHD in EFI. Seems nobody gets them to run well or work right. Pretty close to having me scared into a quality 750 Holley.
 
Mopar92 said:
I was hook, line and sinker on buying a FITech. Sadly I found the Facebook FiTech (not official) page. After a few hours on that page, you'd bet 1 of 2000 units actually work. Lots of guys on there regretting not having a PHD in EFI. Seems nobody gets them to run well or work right. Pretty close to having me scared into a quality 750 Holley.
Click to expand...

I've been following along on that page as well. Im still very leery of the unit and Im pretty sure I can spend money elsewhere on my car and still tinker around with the carb. At least if the carb float sticks, I can fix it on the side of the road and continue on my way. However if something fails on the FITech you could be screwed.
 
The one suggestion that I would have for anyone installing a FiTech is to use a ground strap from one of the 4 throttle body mounting bolt/studs to the battery ground connection on the block. Might be overkill but since the FiTech harness doesn't have a ground wire they rely on a ground connection through the 4 mount studs, intake, heads to block or just head if your battery ground is there. One could have many dissimilar metals along that path. It never hurts to have it well grounded. I have read on other forums (non mopar) about guys having issues and then ran a ground wire to the TBI body and all the issues went away. On my install on my son's truck that was the first thing I did once realizing the wiring harness to the ECU only had power wires. That comes from 45 years of electronics experience. If you look at the Holley Sniper wiring, they have a BATT(-) wire. I don't know why FiTech wouldn't have considered this. My 2 cents.
 
Ground has always been my problems in electrical stuff. Honestly I'm glad I found that help page....it maybe a real dose of reality. I was ready to plunk down money for it. Are thousands of guys having trouble with the Holley sniper kit?
 
Mopar92 said:
Ground has always been my problems in electrical stuff. Honestly I'm glad I found that help page....it maybe a real dose of reality. I was ready to plunk down money for it. Are thousands of guys having trouble with the Holley sniper kit?
Click to expand...
I can not find a lot of info or reviews about the sniper kits yet..
 
Me either. The guys at FITech were super awesome at the PRI show. I think the company probably grew too fast too soon.
 
1DART440 said:
The one suggestion that I would have for anyone installing a FiTech is to use a ground strap from one of the 4 throttle body mounting bolt/studs to the battery ground connection on the block. Might be overkill but since the FiTech harness doesn't have a ground wire they rely on a ground connection through the 4 mount studs, intake, heads to block or just head if your battery ground is there. One could have many dissimilar metals along that path. It never hurts to have it well grounded. I have read on other forums (non mopar) about guys having issues and then ran a ground wire to the TBI body and all the issues went away. On my install on my son's truck that was the first thing I did once realizing the wiring harness to the ECU only had power wires. That comes from 45 years of electronics experience. If you look at the Holley Sniper wiring, they have a BATT(-) wire. I don't know why FiTech wouldn't have considered this. My 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Good Info for the FiTech and in general. Also dielectric grease up all elec connectors.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Here is some info on the sniper. I think I am going this route.

Holley Sniper EFI
Click to expand...

The Holley Sniper might have it's issues since it is much newer. I wouldn't say that FiTech created a lower quality product either. The unit I installed has been running +30kms daily for the last 90 days right through a Northern Ontario winter. Grounding with EFI systems or any automotive electronic system is very important. Ground loops and marginal grounds have no effect when you are talking about light bulbs but when you have PWM(pulse width modulated) signals driving fuel pumps and processors requiring good quality supplied power, that ground becomes important. Bad grounds can create all kinds of electrical noise issues. That fuel pump negative lead should be run back to the TBI mount bolt. Don't scratch away 45 year old under-coating from the rear frame rail and stick it there. Make quality soldered connections on all joined wires. I even solder the crimp ring connectors rather than relying just the crimp. Old Mopars are terrible for the factory bulkhead connectors, a poor connection through that cause issues depending on where you steal a key-on signal from. My suggestion to anyone who is troubled with units cutting out or erratic operation / freezing up etc. to review their install and bring all grounds back to one single common point and inspect all connections. It's not convenient to put your 2 AWG battery negative on your TBI stud but use a good heavy braided ground strap from the TBI to that single ground point on the block with clean polished metal with star lock-washers and dielectric grease.
Also, pay attention to where your wiring runs. Stay away from ignition wires and use resistor ignition wires.
I'm just tiring to help fellow members with a reliable trouble free installation for any system they consider.
 
I have a 72 Cuda with the 71 style ECS " vapor seperator".
I am finally installing my Fi Tech fuel system (bought from Johnny at Pace a year ago) I planned to use the 1/4" line from the vapor seperator that normally would run to the charcoal canister. If the canistor was meant to catch the vapors and the carb used them (this is how the tank vented safely), without the charcaol canister, running that same line to the Commander center vent line instead will my tank still be vented?

Tank_vent_installed.jpg


EBodyFuelTank2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Good evening. I had a similar situation as I sealed my air cleaner to the bottom of my six pack hood while using a 1" spacer. Take a look at the following link on my May 12, 2016 post that has a few pictures.

FiTech EFI system

I purchased the attached drop base and it worked out great. If you have any questions shoot me a message.

mario03srt said:
All,

Maybe I'm confused or not clear. I want to put a 1" phenolic spacer under my FiTech to increase performance. So I'm decreasing the space from the top of the FiTech TB to the bottom of the Hood. A dropped aircleaner would counteract this some or all IDK. I may not even have an issue at all as the FiTech TB is slimmer than my 650 DP. As I progress I'll figure it out.

Thanks,
Marion
Click to expand...

IMG_1165.PNG
 
So has anyone hooked up manifold vacuum to the FCC and the regulator as Fitech now recommends? I am in the midst of COLD weather so I can't do it yet, but am curious what the change is/should be.
 
ken5124 said:
From my understanding, you would put 2 in the handheld.
Click to expand...
I just went through this, my motor would fatten out at 5100 rpm. Called Cody and discussed and he ask about vr 4000 and mine was like a 1.5* off (lower than handheld)

So I set it to 1.5* WRONG. You are suppose to add it to the 17.6 to bring timing light damper up computer time. I think in my case I was pulling out 16* or so after 4000 rpm.
Snow around now have wait for this to dry up to road test.

Larry
 
larryc94 said:
I just went through this, my motor would fatten out at 5100 rpm. Called Cody and discussed and he ask about vr 4000 and mine was like a 1.5* off (lower than handheld)

So I set it to 1.5* WRONG. You are suppose to add it to the 17.6 to bring timing light damper up computer time. I think in my case I was pulling out 16* or so after 4000 rpm.
Snow around now have wait for this to dry up to road test.

Larry
Click to expand...

Understood now..Thanks! Clearly wasn't explained that way last spring..

Anyway got my vacuum lines hooked up to fuel pressure regulators as now recommended.. brought the fuel pressure to under 50 PSI at idle. Unable to do any driving yet, but seemed to idle better.

Ken
 
Sorry for being lazy, BUT I'm not reading 50+ pages.

For any BB/440 guys running FITech's stuff, any issues achieving HP? From what I read on their bigger 8-injector offerings, they rate them between 600-1200 HP but only have a 800 CFM rating, which makes it hard to believe they could get anywhere near 600HP. I know when I plug a 447CI@7kRPMs into a CFM calculator they say ~950 CFM needed for Strip/Drag racing.

Personally I'm shooting for 500+ HP but I don't want to be limited on the top end, especially since I'm building an engine capable of hitting 7k RPMs. (Capable, not planning to hit it that hard too often.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top