FiTech EFI system

-
All,

Good News! My new 367 Cube engine came to life on the First Crank! No Leaks just pure goodness! The car ran warm/ hot and we had to stop a couple of times. After we set the total timing it settled down. Cam break in done and now to the fine tuning. I'll have a video soon. Car looked like it was on fire with the VHT Ceramic paint cooking off on the headers as it got its thermal cure. Fans came on as programmed and the tune settled in right away. Now for some part throttle cruising after a run to the DMV and a 2017 license plate!

Thanks for all of the advice, knowledge, and ideas! This motor is going to be very nice and sounds very healthy and instant throttle with the XE274, Indy Heads, and RPM AirGap, Headers/3" ex and FI.

More to Come as I start to mess with IAC and other tuning.

Mopar or No Car!

Marion
 
I have finally just installed my FI Tech (purchased Feb of 2016 for Johnny at Pace) and got it running.
I am reading that there may be ground issues so I will ground the unit to the rear of a cylinder.
I will show how I installed my set up if it helps someone. I put my fuel command center on my radiator support using existing holes (I made the brackets match the existing holes)
I routed my fuel lines allot like the factory did from the unit to the throttle body. The filters will be clamped together/to the vent line
The actual assembling of the provided high pressure fuel lines is easy if done like this



The previously shown style drop base air cleaners should not be an issue with up to an 1-1/4" drop base "IF" you use an aditional 90* fitting at the throttle body pointed to avoid interference with the provided clearance bulge in the drop base. A 1-1/4" air cleaner base may hit your radiator hose as it exits the thermostat/water neck. A 45* fuel line hose end hits the 1-1/4" drop base air cleaner housing preventing it from seating down on the throttle body neck
#1 The instructions had said not to run any vacumm lines between the FCC and throttle body unless you were using a"blow through" power adder. Recent posting indicate this has changed?

Tank_vent_installed.jpg


Injection return lines.jpg


Hows FiTechs vented.jpg


Command center.png
 
Last edited:
I have mine running and need to tweak it, it's lightly back firing on decel sometimes.
I had an MSD distributor and a hidden 6Al. I locked out the distributor and am using the FiTech to control it.

Fi Tech installed.jpg
 
Last edited:
I also covered the few single wires aft of the plug with 1/8th braided nylon sleeving that I bought from Grainger, heat shrink covers the ends and ties things up neatly.
Someone asked about the fused section of harness.

When I ran it on the driver side along the intake/valve cover the plug was awkwardly exiting. On my small block routing it around the front then back along the passenger side valve cover/intake crease it tucked neatly beneath the coil.

I cut a section of rubber hose to cover the exposed wires leaving the fused sections out. I then electrical taped the ends and middle to clean it up as best as possible.

The red battery hot lead goes to the starter relay constant hot terminal from my battery

I ran the white lead from the FiTech to one side of my ballast resister, (since I am running an MSD I can bypass the ballast) I then used 2 piggy back spade terminal connectors to connect both sides of my ballast (Start and run)

1 8th braided sleeving.jpg


wiring.jpg


Fi Tech hand held contoller.jpg


piggy back wiring.jpg


piggy back spade terminal.jpg
 
Last edited:
I need to ensure my fuel cap is vented well enough too. Most caps are rated at 2 psi before they vent I think? I will have the 1/4" line running to the valve cover breather so I don't think it could become an issue.

must use vented gas cap.jpg
 
UCUDANT said:
I need to ensure my fuel cap is vented well enough too. Most caps are rated at 2 psi before they vent I think? I will have the 1/4" line running to the valve cover breather so I don't think it could become an issue.

View attachment 1715048065
Click to expand...
Am I reading this correctly...? you have a fuel tank vent running to your valve covers?

EDIT: nevermind...I scrolled up and saw your diagram...and thats exaxtly what you mean. wow, new one to me....that's why they don't let me own concourse cars....that fuel line conglomeration would last about 5 minutes at my house lol. (Meaning the factory stuff...Nothing derogatory meant about what you have done)
 
Last edited:
Do yourself a favor and if you're planning on running timing control read my thread on shielding the coil pickup and wire. Even if you're not running timing control make sure that you shield the blue wire running from the coil negative post to the Fitech throttle body and route any wiring you can away from ignition wires or you may get the dreaded RPM Noise fault code. Here is my link. Good Luck.

Fitech EFI Rpm Noise Solved
 
dirty white boy said:
got a question? is there a production car out today that has a fuel tank with pump with return lines and all that flows enuff gph and presser to run a fitech 600hp pa kit?? if so witch ones could be converted to a A body the best??
Click to expand...
u could put fuel feeds in the rear of ur tank, and use the orig. fuel feed in the front of the tank for a return . " IF" ur running an external pump.
 
subcom said:
105 fault codes. Anybody solve them yet? Many say it's o2 sensor related. My logs are full of them. Swapped out the wideband and am still getting them. Have an email out to Cody at Fitec but as usual, their support is slow or non-responsive. Called today and they took my number but never called back.
Click to expand...
I have found that if you are getting noise on the trigger wires going into the throttle body you can get all sorts of error codes. Check out this picture of the codes on my buddy Larry's 1988 Dodge D150 with twin turbos and twin Fitech throttle bodies. All these were eliminated by shielding the trigger wires.
IMG_20170418_184142101-2672x2004.jpg
IMG_20170418_184155576-2672x2004.jpg
 
superchargeddrt said:
I have found that if you are getting noise on the trigger wires going into the throttle body you can get all sorts of error codes. Check out this picture of the codes on my buddy Larry's 1988 Dodge D150 with twin turbos and twin Fitech throttle bodies. All these were eliminated by shielding the trigger wires. View attachment 1715048089 View attachment 1715048090
Click to expand...
Nice! What did you guys use to shield the wires?
 
subcom there's a link to a thread detailing more about that at the bottom of his post above.

superchageddrt thanks I did also see about the feedback and THANKS it's on my radar. I will be PMing to compare notes on tuning if you don't mind

So I would need to
1-Shield the black wire from the Fi Tech (separating it all the way back to the throttle body) all the way to the white wire into the MSD (I use timing control)
2- Shield the coil negative lead the same way
3- Shield the distributor magnetic pick up

Grounding the shielding directs the stray voltage? Would running these wires through rubber vacuum tubing also shield the wire?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
I bought some of this stuff on EBay. 1/2" x 10'. Wrapped the entire length of the O2 harness, the two wire going to distributo And anything else I could. RPM noise codes are gone but I still get an occasional o2 sensor fault.
IMG_5619.PNG
 
Any of you experience a tach signal showing up on handheld when the motor is not turning over ? When using timing control?
 
My buddy Larry's truck was triggering the MSD without cranking the engine. The shielding also fixed that. I shielded my magnetic pickup wires with aluminum foil and then wrapped a piece of stainless steel wire around the foil. I then grounded the stainless steel wire, the Fitech end to the throttle body mounting stud and the distributor end to the distributor body using a bolt through one of the unused threaded holes on the aluminum distributor body. I then encased the wires in covering to make it look better. I also made a metal shield to cover the pickup inside of the distributor (see my other thread). If I can help in any way PM me.
 
Thanks, Will begin the shielding process tonight .

Did his truck throw any fault codes when that happened? Mine is not.
 
UCUDANT said:
subcom there's a link to a thread detailing more about that at the bottom of his post above.

superchageddrt thanks I did also see about the feedback and THANKS it's on my radar. I will be PMing to compare notes on tuning if you don't mind

So I would need to
1-Shield the black wire from the Fi Tech (separating it all the way back to the throttle body) all the way to the white wire into the MSD (I use timing control)
2- Shield the coil negative lead the same way
3- Shield the distributor magnetic pick up

Grounding the shielding directs the stray voltage? Would running these wires through rubber vacuum tubing also shield the wire?

Thanks
Click to expand...
No need for the rubber. If you are using timing control then twist the trigger wires together put foil around them and then twist bare wire around them and ground the wire. I made my pickup shield out of flashing so it's easy to bend. PM me and I'll give you my number.
 
ken5124 said:
Thanks, Will begin the shielding process tonight .

Did his truck throw any fault codes when that happened? Mine is not.
Click to expand...

Yes a ton of them. Mine only got the RPM noise. BTW if your timing is about 70* advanced when you check it, reverse the pickup wires.
 
ken5124 said:
Thats the funny part, I do not get any codes, just an abrupt shut down.
Click to expand...
Had that too.When I first started it up with timing control it started in about a half of a crank. I was thoroughly impressed there was hi fives everywhere and then it just shut off, like you turned off the ignition, no more hi fives. Make sure you shield those wires well and move them as far away as you can from the ignition wires.
 
famous bob said:
u could put fuel feeds in the rear of ur tank, and use the orig. fuel feed in the front of the tank for a return . " IF" ur running an external pump.
Click to expand...
i was hoping there was a complete tank/pump from the newer cars that would support the fitech as im a bit of a junk yard'aholic lol
 
dirty white boy said:
i was hoping there was a complete tank/pump from the newer cars that would support the fitech as im a bit of a junk yard'aholic lol
Click to expand...
I am not sure but I think that most factory pumps don't put out enough pressure. That's why we had to put a new pump on my buddy's 1978 D150. It was FI from the factory. I think you need 58 PSI for the Fitech.
 
So after you've shielded the pick up wires etc, how has everyone's self learning gone? Any issues? I only put about five miles on mine and it ran good but didn't bang in like a 4bl....yet? It also pops on decal, seemed like fuel in the exhaust.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top