Rudy`s Ride
Well-Known Member
Did you have these problems before you you started using the fitech to control the timing? Just wondering.
FiTech EFI system
- Thread starter 71duster06
- Start date
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ken5124
65 Valiant Signet
I don't think so, but I was using a different distributor as well.
Rudy`s Ride
Well-Known Member
Ok Still using stock electronic distributor on mine but I am thinking of going HEI but still not sure. I would like to try timing control but with the amount of cash I got in this now don`t know if I want to do more expariments.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Nice going Ken,
Looks like we're going to have shield our entire cars LOL. You would figure that Fitech would make modifications to the units they're shipping now to avoid these issues. Mine is running pretty darn good except for when I let up off of the gas while cruising. The rpm drops and then recovers. I think that it's because I have a manual valve body in my transmission. I think I have to adjust the decel setting. Let us know how it works out.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Oh by the way guys, my car no longer overheats. I used to panic every time I got stuck in traffic. I purposely let it run in the driveway for 20 minutes and drove it in traffic. The highest I saw was 174 degrees. I think that it's due to the fact I now have advance (other than mechanical). I had the vacuum advance disconnected and I was just running mechanical on my old distributor. Also the air/fuel ratio is now correct. I am a happy guy.
mario03srt
Well-Known Member
All,
I had the same overheating issue. I moved the FCC as far as possible fwd away from the Alt/Header and added a DEI Heat Wrap to shield the FCC. The wrap is secure to the upper diameter of the FCC and the rest of the canister is free to discharge heat as the wrap is not in contact with most of the sides and the bottom. Also had already set the PWM to 39.x (40). Since then no more pump shutdown. But I'm still working through a FCC Venting issue as the stock hookup on my 73 Dart does not work, it needs modded at the tank. I put a small catch can on mine and am freaked out about the volume of fuel discharge from short 10 minute drive through the subdivision with a 30 second blast down a side street. The small Prestone Power Steering bottle was 1/3 full with raw gas. Seems more like a return line than a vent! Just like the Chevelle guys has been ranting about.
FYI,
Marion
UCUDANT
Well-Known Member
So Fitech now recommends running manifold vacuum to the FCC and the regulator?
mario03srt
Well-Known Member
Yes that's correct. I t'd into the ported vac lie to the FiTech reg on the throttle body.
Marion
UCUDANT
Well-Known Member
So ported vacuum? If FiTech states it, where did you find this information? Previously they stated these ports were only used for power adder applications.
This is all I could find under
61 Q&A's on “Instructions for Go EFI Systems”
"Kyle November 15, 2016 at 10:48 pm Reply
I just got your 30004 Power Adder kit and noticed a vacuum line from the FPR to the side of the unit. I’m not planning on boost or spray right away, should it be open to atmosphere or leave it connected how it is?"
Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro November 16, 2016 at 7:51 pm Reply
This is an update we are doing now. Leave it hooked up.
Jim November 23, 2016 at 7:04 pm Reply
looking at the passenger side of the fitech, the chrome vacuum port . What is that for? should it be hooked up and where to?
Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro November 23, 2016 at 11:40 pm Reply
As an update we are now running this port (fuel pressure regulator) to manifold vacuum.
Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro January 6, 2017 at 7:48 am Reply
I recommend the use of vacuum on the regulator as it lowers fuel pressure under a low load situation. This will help the EFI adapt to your engine better.
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UCUDANT
Well-Known Member
I'd use the 3/16 port shown in figure 4
UCUDANT
Well-Known Member
Here's the ebay thermal wrap sold by 3xjacks and made by JC performance.
It's listed as 1/2" x10'
It's about 3" wide has a foil backing over a fiberglass wover material and has velcro strips sewn on the entire length to roll/close it. It is about the size of a dime when the velcro is aligned properly, But I think you could adjust it a little either way if you're creative. I may even wrap my fuel line near the engine
It's listed as 1/2" x10'
It's about 3" wide has a foil backing over a fiberglass wover material and has velcro strips sewn on the entire length to roll/close it. It is about the size of a dime when the velcro is aligned properly, But I think you could adjust it a little either way if you're creative. I may even wrap my fuel line near the engine
mario03srt
Well-Known Member
Well that is one of my complaints about FiTech, too many places to get tech info. I too was skeptical, but I did find an official post from them stating to have a line from the FCC port to vacuum. I tapped (T'd) it into the vac line to the reg on the side of the throttle body. The other port on the TB is now used by my vac advance. The engine vacuum will reduce the pressure at idle as an other means to reduce fuel pump deadheading at idle and overheating, also they have the pulse width volts to the pump reduced to 40% to reduce pump heat and cooking the fuel in the canister.
FYI,
Marion
FYI,
Marion
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mario03srt
Well-Known Member
I have that on my starter wires and my PS low pressure lines to keep the heat down.
FYI,
Marion
UCUDANT
Well-Known Member
I also bought a 90 degree fitting to replace the included 45 degree fitting allowing me to fit my 1-1/2" K&N drop base aircleaner. (I know the 90 degree fitting cleared a 1/2" drop base) I add these details to help the next guy, because the only way I could answer fitment and clearnace issues is trial and error.
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UCUDANT
Well-Known Member
Maybe you missed my point previously you stated "ported" vacuum (above the throttle blades) what I found stated "manifold" vacuum
UCUDANT
Well-Known Member
For those who may want to run the Command center.
I bought a 5/16th 90 degree elbow 1/8th NPT to replace the provided straight vent fitting
I also loosened the fuel pressure regulator valve and spun the nipple where I wanted it, both chanes made for a cleaner installation
View attachment 1715051371
I bought a 5/16th 90 degree elbow 1/8th NPT to replace the provided straight vent fitting
I also loosened the fuel pressure regulator valve and spun the nipple where I wanted it, both chanes made for a cleaner installation
View attachment 1715051371
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UCUDANT
Well-Known Member
How I ran my fuel lines and mounted my filters
mario03srt
Well-Known Member
UCUDANT,
What did you use for a vent line?
Thanks,
Marion
What did you use for a vent line?
Thanks,
Marion
UCUDANT
Well-Known Member
Marion, the car I installed this in is my 72 Cuda and it has the 71 style ECS system. I tapped into the second (second shortest vent in the ECS) so that fuel in the lowest level of the seperator ouldn't settle into the vent return line. I think it works. I will then plump the line that runs to the engine bay from the ECS to the engine (it would normally go to the charcoal canisteron a 72) The diagram is for a 71 Cuda
NOTE: The command center vent WILL RETURN SOME FUEL to the tank. FiTech states the vent line back to the tank MUST be above fuel level. I think most folks tap into the filler neck, the logistics of doing this on the Cuda didn't allow this very practically.
UCUDANT
Well-Known Member
This video has some tuning tips
As I made very slight throttle adjustments (clockwise/in to get the IAC number to come dowm) to get the IAC reading between 3-10 I had to shut it off each time, wait for power down and then restart. Computer will adjust idle etc. and the IAC number will come down. I let it run until the IAC hit the lowest reading and came back up and stabilized. Then readjusted and repeated.
I'm tuning now
As I made very slight throttle adjustments (clockwise/in to get the IAC number to come dowm) to get the IAC reading between 3-10 I had to shut it off each time, wait for power down and then restart. Computer will adjust idle etc. and the IAC number will come down. I let it run until the IAC hit the lowest reading and came back up and stabilized. Then readjusted and repeated.
I'm tuning now
ken5124
65 Valiant Signet
Well, with the change to timing control with the TSP Billet distributor, new software for my go efi 4 power adder, which allowed shutting off the o2 sensor pre heat and finding a problem with the tach input line and changing it( it was grounding out causing sudden and random system shut downs), my system , with the FCC is running
......perfectly. Now to enjoy summer..
Ken
......perfectly. Now to enjoy summer..
Ken
nitrohemi
Well-Known Member
got my fitech up and running it does have what seems as a lean condition when I get off the throttle for a few seconds and the get back on it. this is with just a few miles on it. should I play with the decal fuel cut off or will it learn through this?
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Not sure what causes that but mine does the same thing. I was going to adjust the decel FCU as well. I will let you know it that fixes it. Make sure you save your current tune before you change anything.
ken5124
65 Valiant Signet
I would watch your map numbers at the time you get that lean issue when getting back on it.. You may be at the point where fuel is being shut off. DFCO cut fuel map
If you are, then try lowering the dfco number to slightly less than what the MAP numbers say. Bring the DFCO return map just above the number you set the DFCO Cut fuel map to.
There is also the DFCO return fuel setting to consider
Ken
If you are, then try lowering the dfco number to slightly less than what the MAP numbers say. Bring the DFCO return map just above the number you set the DFCO Cut fuel map to.
There is also the DFCO return fuel setting to consider
Ken
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
Who has Fitech and having success with consistency at the track versus a carburetor?
JW
JW
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