FiTech EFI system

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UCUDANT said:
So after you've shielded the pick up wires etc, how has everyone's self learning gone? Any issues? I only put about five miles on mine and it ran good but didn't bang in like a 4bl....yet? It also pops on decal, seemed like fuel in the exhaust.
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Mine is running great. Just a little engine stumble when I let off of the gas while cruising. I think this is because I have a manual valve body in the transmission and it goes to idle and confuses the Fitech I know there's a decel adjustment, I just have to play with it.
 
UCUDANT said:
So after you've shielded the pick up wires etc, how has everyone's self learning gone? Any issues? I only put about five miles on mine and it ran good but didn't bang in like a 4bl....yet? It also pops on decal, seemed like fuel in the exhaust.
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I`m reading all this w/ interest, I`ve had none of the problems mentioned here w/ my fast.2.0, in case someone hasn`t made their mind up about which one to buy. no bad mouthing intended.
 
Yeah you would figure that Fitech would have shielded those wires from the factory. A few years ago (before Fitech) I was looking to install fuel injection. I talked to Fast, MSD, Holley, Edelbrock and all of them wanted about $3500.00 for something that would work with a roots supercharger. Then came Fitech at $1195.00 ($995.00 if you're not boosted) and all of a sudden Holley has a $995.00 Sniper system. All of the companys I mentioned above have held us hostage for years asking unrealistic prices for their stuff. If nothing else we should all be thankful that Fitech came along to force their hand. I am quite certain that they have quality stuff and I am not bad mouthing them but no way I was paying $3500.00
 
Shield my coil pickup line and the coil line( Black) last night.. Made sure spark plug wires no where near the pickup lead.
First test seems ok.. ran without shutting down.. Still getting some rpm numbers when key on. Will start it up again today and see if it remains solid. I get the feeling it may be the fuel pump orange line, so will shield that next .
Ken
 
superchargeddrt said:
Yeah you would figure that Fitech would have shielded those wires from the factory. A few years ago (before Fitech) I was looking to install fuel injection. I talked to Fast, MSD, Holley, Edelbrock and all of them wanted about $3500.00 for something that would work with a roots supercharger. Then came Fitech at $1195.00 ($995.00 if you're not boosted) and all of a sudden Holley has a $995.00 Sniper system. All of the companys I mentioned above have held us hostage for years asking unrealistic prices for their stuff. If nothing else we should all be thankful that Fitech came along to force their hand. I am quite certain that they have quality stuff and I am not bad mouthing them but no way I was paying $3500.00
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yes , it was big $ for the complete system w/ timing control. And their short "chevy" distributor gave me a problem, trying to get it to clear my victor type knock off heads (long), but it seems to be working well so far. I did have a collector gasket go bad , which gave the system some problems till I figured it out. So far so good now. If anyone ever decides to use this system, use an MSD locked out distributor to get around that problem ! -------bob
 
ken5124 said:
Shield my coil pickup line and the coil line( Black) last night.. Made sure spark plug wires no where near the pickup lead.
First test seems ok.. ran without shutting down.. Still getting some rpm numbers when key on. Will start it up again today and see if it remains solid. I get the feeling it may be the fuel pump orange line, so will shield that next .
Ken
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Good job Ken,
You might want to call Fitech about that. Are you still getting the RPM noise?
 
I don't get any fault codes, just random numbers when I turn power on. But at least not stalling so far.

Tried calling them yesterday, but no luck getting thru and long distance charges on hold are not fun.
Ken
 
So I need to... ? :
1-Shield the black wire from the Fi Tech (did you guys shield all the way to the Throttle body?, Did you separate the black wire or did you shield all the wires in the harness together)
2- Shield the coil negative lead the same way (or are you meaning "coil trigger" wire)
3- Shield the distributor magnetic pick up
4- The two wires going to distributor
5- and the 02 wiring harness?

I'd like to keep things neat and really don't want to wrap the shielding with wire and run it to ground if I don't have to. Any ideas on how to keep it clean are appreciated.

Subcom PM me the ebay seller and the description of that item. Is that a thermal wrap?
 
Yes shied all of the way to the throttle body on the black wire. Also if you are running timing control twist the 2 distributor magnetic pickup wires, then wrap them with aluminium foil, wrap a piece of bare wire (I used stainless steel wire that I got for securing the wheel studs when I installed my Wilwood brakes) and then I installed a crimp connector to the wire and then grounded the side from the 2 pin connector to the throttle body to the throttle body mounting stud (hardley noticeable if you take the plastic cover off of the eyelet, crimp the solder it and slide a piece of heat shrink over it). Then do the same thing with the other half of the wire from the 2 pin connector to the distributor and ground it to the distributor housing. I used this covering to make it look pretty. You don't have to take of the connector it is slit and it slips right over the wires. It comes in several diameters and looks a lot like what Fitech used from the factory. Here's the link.

Amazon.com: 3/8" Split F6 Braided Cable Sleeving Wrap, Split Loom, Techflex (50FT): Automotive

Also make sure you run a ground strap from the throttle body to the firewall. Fitech is depending on the mounting studs to ground everything and I wouldn't trust that.
I did make a shield for my pickup inside of the distributor, I assume you've seen the picture on my thread.
I didn't have to shield the O2 harness but some have said they needed to.
Oh by the way, you can also use braided steel to shield the wires but it costs a lot more and it's a PIA to work with.
 
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superchargeddrt said:
Yes shied all of the way to the throttle body on the black wire. Also if you are running timing control twist the 2 distributor magnetic pickup wires, then wrap them with aluminium foil, wrap a piece of bare wire (I used stainless steel wire that I got for securing the wheel studs when I installed my Wilwood brakes) and then I installed a crimp connector to the wire and then grounded the side from the 2 pin connector to the throttle body to the throttle body mounting stud (hardley noticeable if you take the plastic cover off of the eyelet, crimp the solder it and slide a piece of heat shrink over it). Then do the same thing with the other half of the wire from the 2 pin connector to the distributor and ground it to the distributor housing. I used this covering to make it look pretty. You don't have to take of the connector it is slit and it slips right over the wires. It comes in several diameters and looks a lot like what Fitech used from the factory. Here's the link.

Amazon.com: 3/8" Split F6 Braided Cable Sleeving Wrap, Split Loom, Techflex (50FT): Automotive

Also make sure you run a ground strap from the throttle body to the firewall. Fitech is depending on the mounting studs to ground everything and I wouldn't trust that.
I did make a shield for my pickup inside of the distributor, I assume you've seen the picture on my thread.
I didn't have to shield the O2 harness but some have said they needed to.
Oh by the way, you can also use braided steel to shield the wires but it costs a lot more and it's a PIA to work with.
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Thanks, I do plan to ground from the throttle body stud to the rear of a head, as the head is already grounded directly to the battery.
I'd like to see if what subcom used works, it looks like it would be easy to work with and be neat, I'd also use the split braided loom as you have.

I did see your pics Thanks again
 
How do you turn down the fuel pump in the command center, mine runs so hot after a while you can not touch it and it will stall out. Than I have to wait for it to cool down and runs fine again. I looked at fitech and found some instuctions but my hand held is of course different than the instructions. I have uploaded the pfd so I hope all can see it, when I get to #6 on my hand held it says Tach or 2 Wire coil. Tryed to call fitech, was on hold for 1/2 hour and can no longer afford the long distance charges from Canada.
Thanks Mike
 

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  • SettingFuelPumpPulseWidthModulationFiTech.pdf
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Well, thought it was working okay.. ran it last night and idled fine, went to drive it today and TACH Fluttered when power was turned and I could hear the coil trying to fire(clicking), but started okay
When I went to drive it , it went about 20 feet, then shut off. restarted all right, so I parked it .

For power using items under the hood, I only have the electric fuel pump in the FCC, the MSD 6AL and fitech throttle body getting power when I turn ignition on.

Soon as I get time, I am going to unhook the fuel pump line, power up and see if it gives an rpm signal.

I find it hard to understand why we should have to shield all the wires , all thne way back to the throttle body to avoid this signal noise.

Fitech emailed that my MSD CD box was the problem, yet it did the same thing when I was only using Fitech to drive the coil.?

Ken
 
Rudy`s Ride said:
How do you turn down the fuel pump in the command center, mine runs so hot after a while you can not touch it and it will stall out. Than I have to wait for it to cool down and runs fine again. I looked at fitech and found some instuctions but my hand held is of course different than the instructions. I have uploaded the pfd so I hope all can see it, when I get to #6 on my hand held it says Tach or 2 Wire coil. Tryed to call fitech, was on hold for 1/2 hour and can no longer afford the long distance charges from Canada.
Thanks Mike
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i dont have my handheld i front of me right now but you need to go into the display options and enable pro tuning menu, then go to the pro-tuning menu option and you should be able to change the pwm here.

http://fitechefi.com/fitech-uploads/2016/07/GoEFIPulseWidthModulationInstructions_withpictures.pdf
 
We just pulled a fitech unit off a freinds truck, nothing but Lil drivabillity issues. I am beginning to think the system really isn't fully developed, no reason to be so sensitive to signal interference, the factory systems arnt....
 
I will not be "taking apart" any of their pre wrapped wiring harnesses.. I did that last year, when I had O2 sensor issues and it costs me hundreds of dollars because i voided the warranty.
I will be Shielding what wires I can and hope to find my "noise source" soon.
Ken
 
ken5124 said:
I will not be "taking apart" any of their pre wrapped wiring harnesses.. I did that last year, when I had O2 sensor issues and it costs me hundreds of dollars because i voided the warranty.
I will be Shielding what wires I can and hope to find my "noise source" soon.
Ken
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Hi Ken,
Yes I totally agree that you shouldn't have to shield the wiring but I know that it was an issue with mine. This must not be limited to Fitech as MSD sells a 6ft long 2 pin shielded cable to connect the distributor to the MSD box
 
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superchargeddrt, (ans subcom) thanks again for sharing your tips and information.

I ordered the thermal insulator and some stainless wiring, the nylon braided material will be next.

Thermal wrap.jpg


Stainless wiring.jpg
 
UCUDANT said:
superchargeddrt, (ans subcom) thanks again for sharing your tips and information.

I ordered the thermal insulator and some stainless wiring, the nylon braided material will be next.

View attachment 1715048981

View attachment 1715048982
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You're very welcome. This seems to be a recurring problem. I pounded my head against the wall more than a few times. I am just glad to help. Looks like what you ordered should work out fine.
 
I have only heard the 6AL making noise with the key on eng off, and only have a few miles on my set up.
I believe we did also see things like the RPM data etc move with KOEO as well.

I will start by shielding everything together without separating any of the FiTech harness, as I don't want to void warranty (I've had it a year before installation though)
Then if I have any issues I will contact FiTech and then proceed form there at that point we might be helping with resolving issues and they may ok and stand behind the alteration.
 
UCUDANT said:
I have only heard the 6AL making noise with the key on eng off, and only have a few miles on my set up.
I believe we did also see things like the RPM data etc move with KOEO as well.



I will start by shielding everything together without separating any of the FiTech harness, as I don't want to void warranty (I've had it a year before installation though)
Then if I have any issues I will contact FiTech and then proceed form there at that point we might be helping with resolving issues and they may ok and stand behind the alteration.
Click to expand...


I didn't cut any of the harnesses. I simply aluminum foil around the connected harnesses and then wrapped bare stainless steel wire (doesn't have to be stainless) and then grounded the wire thus grounding the aluminum foil as they are touching. I then covered it in black split covering (so you don't havto cut the wires) that looked just like what Fitech was using.You can also use braided steel to shield the wires.
 
UCUDANT said:
I have only heard the 6AL making noise with the key on eng off, and only have a few miles on my set up.
I believe we did also see things like the RPM data etc move with KOEO as well.

I will start by shielding everything together without separating any of the FiTech harness, as I don't want to void warranty (I've had it a year before installation though)
Then if I have any issues I will contact FiTech and then proceed form there at that point we might be helping with resolving issues and they may ok and stand behind the alteration.
Click to expand...

Update: Got an email back from Bryce at Fitech.. May be my problem.

"The wiring that I have seen cause random RPM at key on is the oxygen sensor. If you disconnect it and key on will RPM stop bouncing? We have a way to stop this in the software."

I have emailed back asking if the software is something I can implement. I"ll report back after I test this by unplugging the O2 harness, and turning key on, later this afternoon. If true, it looks like the O2 wiring harness needs to be shielded, and mine runs right beside my distributor pick up line.

Fingers crossed!!

Ken
 
ken5124 said:
Update: Got an email back from Bryce at Fitech.. May be my problem.

"The wiring that I have seen cause random RPM at key on is the oxygen sensor. If you disconnect it and key on will RPM stop bouncing? We have a way to stop this in the software."

I have emailed back asking if the software is something I can implement. I"ll report back after I test this by unplugging the O2 harness, and turning key on, later this afternoon. If true, it looks like the O2 wiring harness needs to be shielded, and mine runs right beside my distributor pick up line.

Fingers crossed!!

Ken
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Looking forward to finding out Ken. Let us know.
 
Update: Went straight at it after work..
With the O2 sensor unplugged, key on engine off n Displayed tach numbers on the handheld, plugged it back in, same test, back to random rpm tach numbers.
For my circumstance proof that the o@ sensor was interfering with the distributor pickup lines. ( who knows what affect that is having while operating.)

Applied Shielding to the O2 sensor wires from throttle body back to firewall, and now FINALLY no Tach numbers displayed with key on engine Off

Beside the shielding I already had on the Pickup module distributor line, I did not shield any other wires.

Short ride seems good, can't test it too much till after the weekend. I may just have a handle on this.

More to follow after additional testing.
 
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