FiTech EFI system

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Manifold Vacuum to both throttle body regulator and FCC regulator if you have one, was added as a tip from Fitech on their FAQ sections.. Found it myself , quite by accident as well..

But it lowers Fuel pressure at idle by about 10 on my system.

And a relearn won't hurt to start fresh

Ken
Hey Ken,
Are they suggesting that for the Power Adder systems as well?
 
connecting FPR to vacuum on the FCC will lower pressure at idle, and when using FCC, connecting FPR on TB to vacuum is a failsafe in the event it fails, it doesn't dump fuel everywhere.
 
Marion, the car I installed this in is my 72 Cuda and it has the 71 style ECS system. I tapped into the second (second shortest vent in the ECS) so that fuel in the lowest level of the seperator ouldn't settle into the vent return line. I think it works. I will then plump the line that runs to the engine bay from the ECS to the engine (it would normally go to the charcoal canisteron a 72) The diagram is for a 71 Cuda

NOTE: The command center vent WILL RETURN SOME FUEL to the tank. FiTech states the vent line back to the tank MUST be above fuel level. I think most folks tap into the filler neck, the logistics of doing this on the Cuda didn't allow this very practically.

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UCUDANT,

Thanks for the pics. I'm now ready to tackle this as a last part of my cars resto. I've been using a catch can for some quick runs but must stop it and get a permanent solution. My 73 has the same setup or close so this should be helpful.

Marion
 
mario03srt, I'm glad to help. I try to add what I've used/learned since it would have helped me going in. I like my system.
 
Ok,
With the noise filter installed my Dart is running very well. Great throttle response and no dying when the throttle is lifted. Took it to a big cruise near my house in Butler PA. and no driveability issue at all. Stay tuned only time will tell.
 
A local speed shop advised they have sold 50 units of this brand with zero problems. Almost had me convinced. 55 pages of FiTech problems here and I think I will pass.
 
A local speed shop advised they have sold 50 units of this brand with zero problems. Almost had me convinced. 55 pages of FiTech problems here and I think I will pass.

And how many pages of carburetor problems are there?

Most of the issues here are lack lack of knowledge and understanding of how the system operates. Once you get the education part done and learn how simple and easy the EFI system is, you can kick your carburetor to the curb.
 
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And how many pages of carburetor problems are there?

Most of the issues here are lack lack of knowledge and understanding of how the system operates. Once you get the education part done and learn how simple and easy the EFI system is, you can kick your carburetor to the curb.

I agree with you, but I do not see 55 page threads on carbs though. Very few people are running FI at the track. I cant see how so many people are having run ability problems with a "self" learning system. Bad sensors, bad ecu's, fuel command center problems, this and that. It seems 80 percent have issues and the other 20 percent are fine. You watch the installations on you tube; zero problems. FABO= FI problems galore. What percentage of the units are faulty right off the line?
 
For those trying to make up your mind about EFI

I knew nothing about fuel injection other than it was a "computerized carburetor". After running my Barracuda with what I thought was finely tuned carburetor and taking my first drive (once I had my FiTech system running) there's no comparison. From the moment I pulled out of my driveway I noticed the nice smooth acceleration, not even a minute hesitation. Throttle response was instant. Starting the engine is a pleasure, no more pedal pumping or even waiting to warm up. Get in and go. I'm not sure what the problems were with the fuel command center for many but I went with a Tanks Inc EFI tank and pump. Maybe this circumvented issues for me.

Here's my 2 cents about the FiTech system:
1) Be skeptical but search for the real answers (facts).

2) Expectations - be realistic with them. What are you installing it on? How old is your fuel tank / lines / components?

3) Make sure you follow the installation instructions completely, especially the wiring connections.

4) Go into this prepared to learn about EFI. Sure it's self-learning but it isn't fool-proof. Nothing is. If you're expectation is to install it, fire it up, and live happily ever after then buy a new Toyota.

5) If you want a smoother running engine, great acceleration, and tire smoking throttle response for your muscle car then buy one but take the time to learn about this system. You'll be glad you did. I am.

6) Trying to tune my big Holley on my 426w Duster was a big PITA. Drain the float bowls, disconnect, take apart, change jets, put back together, go for a ride. Repeat god knows how many times. I just ordered another FiTech for this car. I don't know about you but I'd rather punch a few buttons and change parameters from the drivers seat than get all dirty and smelly from gas under the hood.

I'm sure other systems are just as good, competition is a good thing for the consumer. This stuff will only get better... :)
 
A local speed shop advised they have sold 50 units of this brand with zero problems. Almost had me convinced. 55 pages of FiTech problems here and I think I will pass.


This is 56 pages of tech info, tech questions, pre sales questions, tuning help, satisfied customers, supporting equipment conversation, and some troubleshooting. 50 units? That's a slow month at pace performance. I have sold 3000 or so to date. Reading the last few pages of rhis thread and coming to the conclusion these are troublesome is very much the wrong conclusion to draw.
 
This is 56 pages of tech info, tech questions, pre sales questions, tuning help, satisfied customers, supporting equipment conversation, and some troubleshooting. 50 units? That's a slow month at pace performance. I have sold 3000 or so to date. Reading the last few pages of rhis thread and coming to the conclusion these are troublesome is very much the wrong conclusion to draw.
All,
I made my maiden voyage in my new 360 w/ FiTech. I made a 130 mile trip. It ran flawlessly and started with a bump of the key. I still need a long term solution for my vent tube. Also the auto tune has worked great and I have not had to make any changes to the base tune. Crisp throttle and good decel. No leaks and no controller issues. FiTech to me needs to up their Support and more so the tech instructions. Don't know why there is no latest Instruction to download. If you car is not "straight" with vacuum leaks etc, or the install done improperly and has wiring issues then this could result in problems. I started with a clean slate myself and have owned EFI cars that I used ecu piggy back or standalones to modify tunes for boosted or big cam NA cars, so this to me is way easier than trying to cope with a carb.

Marion
 
On some (all?) a-bodies the filler neck can easily be pulled. the fcc VENT (NOT A FULL RETURN) could be added to the lowest point on the filler tube. This allows you to drill/tap seal a barb fitting into the system w/o the dangers of being near your fuel tank, or getting debris into the tank.
 
On some (all?) a-bodies the filler neck can easily be pulled. the fcc VENT (NOT A FULL RETURN) could be added to the lowest point on the filler tube. This allows you to drill/tap seal a barb fitting into the system w/o the dangers of being near your fuel tank, or getting debris into the tank.

Basically what I did, with a barb as low as possible into the filler pipe..( granted i did not pull the pipe) no issues.
 
Basically what I did, with a barb as low as possible into the filler pipe..( granted i did not pull the pipe) no issues.
Ken,

Did you use the existing vent line from the Charcoal Canister and terminate it near the rear of the car and run a new line from there to the neck? I have a 73 Dart.

Thanks,
Marion
 
ken,
Well it turns out that the 73 Dart has a single vent line that goes from the front and goes all the way back to the tank and mates to a rubber section clamped to the tank nipple. So that is super cool except I can't get the line to flow air, and I had a FCC shutdown once in the early phase of the engine and Fitech install. I has this hooked up in the beginning. Now I need to see if it is clogged or a overfill limiter or chechvalve type of arrangement maybe inhibiting things. Also the rubber section os the vent at the tank is tore in 2 and is venting to atmosphere it appears, so that needs replacement but no biggie.

FiTech forever, Holley Avenger 770 Never! lol...........

Marion
 
You might just be better off to replace that single line with new rubber hose. probably plugged somewhere from age. Yes EFI forever.
Ken
 
If your cars had a fuel vapor separator you might be able to T in there. My Cuda had 4 lines from tank vents (see my previous pic's/diagrams)
I T'd my FCC vent in back near the tank with a line I ran. I tapped into the second tallest vent in the ECS so if the tank splashed up and in it returned to the tank not the FCC vent.

To anyone who read a posters negative comment I can assure you I have been very happy from day one with my FiTech. A buddy came over when I installed it and fired it up and he was shocked that it started and ran so easily.

I just had to start over due to incorrect timing because my damper had slipped. So I had to rest the throttle blades to correct the IAC reading at idle. So the car has to do some relearning. The car ran great even with the bad damper and less than 20 degrees total timing, even better now. It still needs to relearn and seemed to stay right with an LS swapped Nissan until I think I accidentally hit my rev limiter which is over 6K rpm and since the car had provisions to quick release his front bumper cover he probably had an intercooler..... I still don't have a good fuel map in the upper RPM's since it just hadn't been there yet.
 
You might just be better off to replace that single line with new rubber hose. probably plugged somewhere from age. Yes EFI forever.
Ken
X1000. Lets all remember that with 40 year old rubber and metal lines on these cars, it's 100% within the realm of possibility that reusing an existing line w/o checking it for flow, can lead to issues. Mud dobber wasps are real SOB's...
 
All,

Well I got under the car and disconnected the canister vapor live (vent) and cut the rubber splice right at the crossmember to get it loose. Well I come to find that the beginning vent line where it attached to the canister has a very small orifice in it. I could not see it before. So I took come pipe cutter and trimmed it off. It's back in the car and it blows through good. Now though it appears that the same restriction is at the nipple coming off the fuel sending unit. It has a very small orifice. These are intended for moving fumes I suppose and not any possible fuel bulk. So now to run a hose to the filler tube or trim the sender like the front of the line. I don't see how any fuel is going to make the big trip up and down and all around. Maybe it will evap while it sets.

Marion
 
All,
My vent/return is installed and working great. I added a barb to the fuel filler neck right at the tank grommet and connected it to the old emission cannister hard line. I did do a check before connecting to the barb, and believe it or not the fuel from the FCC did make the journey up a few inches here and there and I caught it in a make shift catch can. Good thing that I did as the old hard line was pretty dirty and the fuel coming through was very brackish and when it cleared up I finished the install. I made the 40 mile round trip to the local Friday Cruise without any issues at all and now my FiTech is all set. Thanks to Johnny and Ken for the encouragement and motivation. Yeah Fuel System Done! Now on to changing springs and weights on the Skippy White HEI, (which I was able to squeeze in by the wiper motor) to bring in my timing sooner as it comes in at 3500. Also do some data logging to see wassup. One other detail is to add the correct stiffer 995-16 Comp Dual Valve springs as the car has a couple 100 miles on it now.

Also not sure on the exact MPG but it is looking very encouraging!

Thanks,
Marion
 
All,

Looks like a lot of people are modifying the FCC to make it a pure Return System. Essentially, Open the FCC, remove the floats and a couple of screws, then the vent brass vapor piece. Reassemble and then you will get circulating fuel back to the tank thru the vent opening. If of course you have one in place. It fairly straight forward. Google it and you can find several YouTube videos. Fuel temps are in the 105 range now as opposed to much higher ones depending on the mounting location, outside ambient temps, periods of idling, engine temps etc, but in any case much better. Even if you like me aren't having anymore issues, cooler fuel is always a big plus!

FYI,
Marion
 
I have modified my FCC and so far no issues.. Fuel command center is much cooler, even without the heat wrap I used to use. Before if my motor got up to temp ( 195), the FCC would seem very close in temp to engine temp. Now there is marked difference in the Command center temperature ( cooler).
Continuing to test. I kept the parts so I can return to original should I need to.

Ken
 
did you keep the fuel pump turned down, or bump it up to circulate more fuel?
 
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