Follow my 1967 Dodge Dart Restoration

[mopar_muscle]

Today i made a little more progress:

I took the old truck oil pan off and put the car oil pan on with the car oil pan pick up tube.

I also put some of the little stuff like the front pulleys, dip stick, fuel block of plate, and harmonic balansor on.

 

[mopar_muscle]

So... this morning, found an add on craigslist of an guy selling a T56 transmission. I offered him $800 and went to pick it up this evening. It was a long drive of 2 and a half hours there and another 2 and a half hours back, but was totally worth it. The trany looks great and has less that 100 000 miles on it.

I will be using the dodge bell housing and pressure plate and mount the trany to it with an adapter plate and use the T56 clutch plate. Its the exact same size as the original dodge clutch plate, just different splines.

Posted are some pics. I am really excited about how its turning out so far. :cheers:

 

[67 prostreet gt]

This describes how I build cars lol

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[mopar_muscle]

Here is a link to were i got all the torque specs for the Dodge 273, 318, 340 and 360 engines.

http://boxwrench.net/specs/schrys_A.htm

Louwtjie

 

[Riddler]

Whats the T56 out of? LT1, LS1, Ford or Viper? It matters which it is as each of these has a different input shaft length.

You'll need a bellhousing and the Quicktime ones are great. You do know you'll have to cut the floor hump and also fabricate a new cross member right?

Stay at it. Build looks great.

Riddler

 

[txstang84]

Hi, thank you for posting that picture of the K member. After looking at it im sure the previous owner modified the mounts.

Though the aluminum mount plate might look cool, im just gona keep it stock and get a new K member.

If anyone know of a K member for sale, please let me know.

Thank you,
Louwtjie

Best way is to scout the classifieds; if you don't find one there, post up a wanted ad, and you'll be more likely to get a reply than just asking in your build thread, although it's a good first step.

 

[mopar_muscle]

The T56 is out of a 1994 Camaro with LT1.

The identification tag on the transmission reads: 1386-000-009
I did some research and this is the specs on the transmission:

Torque Rating: 450

Gear rations:
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th rev
2.66:1 1.78:1 1.30:1 1.00:1 0.74:1 0.50:1 2.90:1

Input Splines: 26 Output Splines: 27


Yes, i know about the modifications to the transmission tunnel. Ive read other build threads and looking forward to cutting and fabricating the new tunnel and cross member.

Thank you,
Louwtjie

 

[kingdragon]

I agree keep the stock isolators. not to be a back seat driver but I would of out the thinnest steel shim head gaskets I could find in that motor. Try and increase some of that quench

 

[slotto]

looks great there Mr Muscle!

 

[txstang84]

but I would of out the thinnest steel shim head gaskets I could find in that motor. Try and increase some of that quench

There's essentially no quench to be had with stock 360s. Even with shim head gaskets, you're still looking at about 0.140-.180" separation @ TDC...very little if any turbulence in the chamber during the compression stroke.

 

[clinteg]

Who's valve covers did you buy? How was the fitment?

 

[mopar_muscle]

I didn't use the stock 360 heads to build the engine.

I used earlier 318 heads with a small combustion chamber and payed a lot of money to get it ported to 360 sized intake and exhaust ports.

So the compression is now a lot better than it would have been by using stock 360 heads.

Louwtjie

 

[mopar_muscle]

I bought the valve covers from KMJ PERFORMANCE on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/39055665277...iewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OU:US:3160&vxp=mtr

I am very happy with the fitment and quality of these valve covers.

Before i bolted them on, i held them in front of a light to see if there wasn't any tiny holes in the corners. I also filled it up with water to see if it leaks and it was perfect. no imperfections.

One thing to keep in mind is that the base doesn't have a curled lip that fits around the cylinder head, but if you have good gaskets it shouldn't be a problem.

I haven't run the engine yet, so time will tell.

Louwtjie

 

[mopar_muscle]

Okay, so after closer inspection to mounting the T56 to my LA block, i have determined that i can not use any of the two bell housing that i have with an adapter plate. The biggest issue is that the bell housing depth is totally different. (see picture)

That leaves me with two options:

Buy the $600 quick time bell housing (I personally think that is way to much.)

Or

Make my own bell housing.

 

[mopar_muscle]

The next part of my project that i really want to get done is working on the bell housing.

Ill need to take the engine of the stand, which is mounted on the back of the engine, and build another stand that mounts in suck a manner that i will be able to work on the transmission side of the block with our having the stand in the way.

Here is the stand i made today. It has a bearing in the middle so the engine can be rotated easily.

 

[mopar_muscle]

About the clutch system:

I will be using the LA engine's flywheel
with
the LT1 clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing and clutch fork.




The LT1 pressure plate doesn't fit on the LA flywheel. The bolt pattern is different, so i drilled and tapped new holes in the flywheel for the pressure plate.

 

[67 prostreet gt]

Beautiful engine stand it kinda reminds me of one of those model car display things that spin around.

Now wat was the purpose of stunning those holes in the flywheel?

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[mopar_muscle]

Thank you

The new holes are drilled into the flywheel so that the LT1 pressure plate can bolt to it. It wouldn't bolt on to the old holes. On the last photo you can see the old holes are unused.


Louwtjie

 

[mopar_muscle]

The bell housing, here we go.

 

[67 prostreet gt]

U selling those dodge letters for the trunk lid

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[mopar_muscle]

Im not, sorry. I am in need of an "O" that goes on the hood.

Louwtjie

 

[mopar_muscle]

Today some parts came in and i was able to make some progress:

The headers are ceramic coated from Flowtech.











Me and my friend made the spark plug wires to custom lengths. The headers are made in such a manner that cylinders number 5 and 7 need a 90° spark plug end, while the rest have a straight end.













Then my buddy showed me this cool trick of how to neatly tuck the spark plug wires using zip ties.

You can see his car build thread here: http://forums.finalgear.com/post-your-car/1967-ford-fairlane-500-a-27056/ 1967 Ford Fairlane
















Then i put the carburetor and air cleaner back on to take some final pictures.















Also today i got the final sheet metal pieces that i need to repair all the rust on the body:

Quarter patch panels
Trunk drop off's
and front passenger floor













Im still working on the bell housing, i need to make a CAD model and then make a pattern to cast.

As soon as i make progress on that ill post some more pics and info on the bell housing.

 

[pyrojim]

Looks great!!

 

[Dave Morgan]

Looks awsome cant wait to see that tranny in there.

 

[sledger46]

I read through your thread and I think you have a great project. As I read through the thread a couple of thoughts popped into my head. First: wouldn't a Viper bell housing be a better starting point? I don't know how hard it would be to find one though. Did you decide to use the LT1 pressure plate because of it's compact dimensions? I would look at the presure plate and disc setup used on Vipers.

Just did a quick search on Viper bell housings and found several years for $103.