Found my dads original 1971 duster!

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They may not be able to do it til its done. They will need to send an appraiser out I'm sue.. You can still call and see what is required. They may have a appraiser or you may need to find one. I use Grundy. Had good good results with them.
 
moparker said:
They may not be able to do it til its done. They will need to send an appraiser out I'm sue.. You can still call and see what is required. They may have a appraiser or you may need to find one. I use Grundy. Had good good results with them.
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Ahhh. Ya, when I got my appraisal originally, to switch into my name, I think the appraiser said that Haggarty doesn’t require an appraisal. But I’ll likely go with my current company. I get pretty good rates because of the amount of crap I insure. Lol
 
dads71 said:
Ahhh. Ya, when I got my appraisal originally, to switch into my name, I think the appraiser said that Haggarty doesn’t require an appraisal. But I’ll likely go with my current company. I get pretty good rates because of the amount of crap I insure. Lol
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I have three cars with Hagerty they want pictures and what you want the Agreed Value to be.
 
Hey guys. Question. Originally the car builder said he was using an original rad fan out of a duster he had there. Now he is saying I should buy this and ship to him. Any thoughts? I’d like the car to be as original as possible, but if this would be better, I’ll buy it. Not sure how a rad fan could add 15hp

657AEDA8-D178-4B6B-A022-4D10E3386B92.png
 
The viscous clutch drive allows the fan to 'freewheel' when it is not needed to cool the engine, which reduces parasitic drag on the crankshaft, freeing up power. I don't know about 15 hp, but it does help, I have used them on my Darts and been happy.
I definitely notice a difference when the fan drove engages on my highway tractor.

Your car may have been equipped with one from new.
 
missing linc said:
The viscous clutch drive allows the fan to 'freewheel' when it is not needed to cool the engine, which reduces parasitic drag on the crankshaft, freeing up power. I don't know about 15 hp, but it does help, I have used them on my Darts and been happy.
I definitely notice a difference when the fan drove engages on my highway tractor.
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Oh wow. That’s awesome. I had no idea that’s how it worked. That makes sense to me! Thank you!
 
dads71 said:
Hey guys. Question. Originally the car builder said he was using an original rad fan out of a duster he had there. Now he is saying I should buy this and ship to him. Any thoughts? I’d like the car to be as original as possible, but if this would be better, I’ll buy it. Not sure how a rad fan could add 15hp

View attachment 1716239359
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I run that one on my car works really good.
 
-Boosted- said:
Once a year a cool story like this will pop up. Last year it was @Scott_ 69HemiDart inheriting his FIL's '69 Hemi Dart. This year is your year and I am looking forward to following along on your build.
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Thanks to Bill I was alerted to your story. :thumbsup:

Welcome to the forum. Congrats on finally getting the car. I still need to catch up on reading the thread, I just got back from the Spring Carlisle Swap meet.

Outstanding group of people here, anything you need they will go above and beyond to help you out.
 
ocdart said:
The clutch mentioned by Bennoel 10 in post #240 is on the other side of the fan in the above pic. Turn the fan over and you'll see the viscous clutch.
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Awesome. Thanks! I’m not sure the builder wants to use it. I’m also not sure how to tell if the clutch would be any good. Looks like I’ll be buying new. I guess at this point, what another $300 for a new fan. Lol
 
Scott_ 69HemiDart said:
Thanks to Bill I was alerted to your story. :thumbsup:

Welcome to the forum. Congrats on finally getting the car. I still need to catch up on reading the thread, I just got back from the Spring Carlisle Swap meet.

Outstanding group of people here, anything you need they will go above and beyond to help you out.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the welcome! Yes, everyone has been amazing on here! A definite wealth of knowledge. Before I joined the forum, I would Google for information and more often than not it would lead me to the forums!
 
dads71 said:
Awesome. Thanks! I’m not sure the builder wants to use it. I’m also not sure how to tell if the clutch would be any good. Looks like I’ll be buying new. I guess at this point, what another $300 for a new fan. Lol
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If its not leaking and there is resistance when when you turn the portion that holds the fan while holding the attaching flange.
Some clutches had a thermal control on the front - that one probably does not. best part is that it will fit and be spaced properly without spending a bunch of time figuring out and checking stuff.

The difference between clutch and fixed fan is measurable. In terms of power, the difference between two clutch fan set ups is going to be small. I'm surprsised the builder is so resistant. Clean the fan up and use it. Soda blast or something gentle if you need to blast.
 
There also should be no play in the clutch unit. Don't know how I forgot about that since I've been bit for ignoring that one.
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Getting ready for driving and tuning, lets look at the dyno sheet.
1713729902468.png

To me this looks like a pull for break in and check for problems.
A tuning effort would have BSCF and fuel, and possibly a wideband (AFR estimate based on oxygen left in the exhaust) and some other stuff.
I will guess they ran the timing at 35* that they measured at 3000 rpm. Since we don't know the engine temperature for the pull, best to start with something more like 32* at 3000 rpm.
I don't see much more to be mined out of it right now.

It would be nice to know what cam and pistons went in there. Got anything on those, and cylinder volume or compression?
if you don't, its OK. But if you do, it will be helpful.
 
Further comments in getting ready to tune and drive.
Proform "Mopar authorized" Ignition kit.
Not much info posted about the internals of these. So my advice is this. If its running OK, then the first opportunity measure the timing versus rpm from idle on up through 2000 rpm. Then if your comfortable doing so, maybe 2800 rpm and 3400. If not, don't sweat it. Get the lower rpm measuerments. You just want to document the baseline you've been handed.
You will need a timing light, a tachometer, and a golf tee. The tee is to plug the vacuum line to the vacuum advance.

Edelbrock carb AVS2 650 rating. with electric choke.
There are many things you can adjust or tune on this carb. At first, leave it alone if its running decently.
Sequence of importance for tuning:
Fuel level in bowl
Throttle position at slow idle (warmed up). This effects idle and off-idle
Idle mix screws. These effect idle when warmed up. Tune by turning in slowly. When rpm begins to drop, stop. Turn back rich 1/8 turn.
Jets. Wide open throttle in upper gears or other max load situations
Jets with rods. Cruising at high speed fuel mixture. (the instruction manual has charts of the various combinations effect the mixture)
Step up spring. A way of controlling when enrichment is needed.
When/If you want an explanation of how the carb works, go to the late 60s Master Tech info on carb fundementals here

Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics

The Imperial Mailing List Online Car Club is dedicated to the preservation, appreciation and restoration of Imperials and Chrysler Imperials of all years, models and body-styles.
www.web.imperialclub.info

If you have trouble with start up check the choke. it may be too open or too closed. Also see how it was wired in as factory did not rely on electric choke in '71. So you just want to know how the shop spliced it in.

If its running decent, I wouldn't mess with anything. Just document for future reference. After a while, remove a spark plug or two and see what they look like. Eventually if you're interested, you can begin tuning for performance. By this I mean the stuff that some people brought up earlier in the thread; timing, fuel mix at wide open throttle, fuel mix for high speed cruising, etc. If its not running decent in some situations then you will have to dive in sooner.
 
Mattax said:
Further comments in getting ready to tune and drive.
Proform "Mopar authorized" Ignition kit.
Not much info posted about the internals of these. So my advice is this. If its running OK, then the first opportunity measure the timing versus rpm from idle on up through 2000 rpm. Then if your comfortable doing so, maybe 2800 rpm and 3400. If not, don't sweat it. Get the lower rpm measuerments. You just want to document the baseline you've been handed.
You will need a timing light, a tachometer, and a golf tee. The tee is to plug the vacuum line to the vacuum advance.

Edelbrock carb AVS2 650 rating. with electric choke.
There are many things you can adjust or tune on this carb. At first, leave it alone if its running decently.
Sequence of importance for tuning:
Fuel level in bowl
Throttle position at slow idle (warmed up). This effects idle and off-idle
Idle mix screws. These effect idle when warmed up. Tune by turning in slowly. When rpm begins to drop, stop. Turn back rich 1/8 turn.
Jets. Wide open throttle in upper gears or other max load situations
Jets with rods. Cruising at high speed fuel mixture. (the instruction manual has charts of the various combinations effect the mixture)
Step up spring. A way of controlling when enrichment is needed.
When/If you want an explanation of how the carb works, go to the late 60s Master Tech info on carb fundementals here
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If you have trouble with start up check the choke. it may be too open or too closed. Also see how it was wired in as factory did not rely on electric choke in '71. So you just want to know how the shop spliced it in.

If its running decent, I wouldn't mess with anything. Just document for future reference. After a while, remove a spark plug or two and see what they look like. Eventually if you're interested, you can begin tuning for performance. By this I mean the stuff that some people brought up earlier in the thread; timing, fuel mix at wide open throttle, fuel mix for high speed cruising, etc. If its not running decent in some situations then you will have to dive in sooner.
Click to expand...
Wow! You seem to know your stuff! That’s amazing. The car builder isn’t 100% confident on setting the carb etc. I spoke to him about that yesterday. I’m hoping to find a shop close to me that can do all of the stuff you said needs to be looked at or possibly adjusted. To be honest, I can build a house with my eyes closed, but when it comes to vehicle mechanics, I get lost just reading some of the stuff you wrote! I wish you lived close by! Lol
Thanks so much for the info!
 
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