Found my dads original 1971 duster!

[dads71]

There also should be no play in the clutch unit. Don't know how I forgot about that since I've been bit for ignoring that one.
----------------

Getting ready for driving and tuning, lets look at the dyno sheet.
View attachment 1716239773
To me this looks like a pull for break in and check for problems.
A tuning effort would have BSCF and fuel, and possibly a wideband (AFR estimate based on oxygen left in the exhaust) and some other stuff.
I will guess they ran the timing at 35* that they measured at 3000 rpm. Since we don't know the engine temperature for the pull, best to start with something more like 32* at 3000 rpm.
I don't see much more to be mined out of it right now.

It would be nice to know what cam and pistons went in there. Got anything on those, and cylinder volume or compression?
if you don't, its OK. But if you do, it will be helpful.

Yes, I think you’re right. The car builder says it doesn’t even look like my carb has been out of its box. So the engine builder clearly didn’t set anything up. I’m assuming maybe that they just run it with their own carb, fuel pump etc for the testing
All I can see is “lunati cam kit” and “forged pistons” on my invoice sheets
I’ll email them and ask about it, to be sure

 

[dads71]

If its not leaking and there is resistance when when you turn the portion that holds the fan while holding the attaching flange.
Some clutches had a thermal control on the front - that one probably does not. best part is that it will fit and be spaced properly without spending a bunch of time figuring out and checking stuff.

The difference between clutch and fixed fan is measurable. In terms of power, the difference between two clutch fan set ups is going to be small. I'm surprsised the builder is so resistant. Clean the fan up and use it. Soda blast or something gentle if you need to blast.

Thank you! I will ship mine to him and tell him to use it!

 

[71GSSDemon]

Wow! You seem to know your stuff! That’s amazing. The car builder isn’t 100% confident on setting the carb etc. I spoke to him about that yesterday. I’m hoping to find a shop close to me that can do all of the stuff you said needs to be looked at or possibly adjusted. To be honest, I can build a house with my eyes closed, but when it comes to vehicle mechanics, I get lost just reading some of the stuff you wrote! I wish you lived close by! Lol
Thanks so much for the info!

@Mattax is a super smart helpful guy. He helped me tremendously.

 

[Mattax]

There are others here who have a lot more experience than me. I have an area or two of knowledge and a bunch of learning the hard way.

H'm. OK. If the carb hasn't been taken out of the box, then this will be a bit different story. How about the distributor and ECU? Did they come with engine? Did he use them on the dyno? Even if the distributor is on the engine, if the engine is going in from up top then in my experience it will be removed during install. Mark the base of the dist to the block as well as the rotor position. That will get you close when reinstalling.

If both the carb and distributor are going for the first time, you and the builder are going to have to do a little reading and/or get some one with experience to give you a hand. The stuff I'm writing about will more sense when you're working with it. At least with me it takes both hands on and reading about how it works before it starts to make sense. Get the cam info and compression and we can make a ballpark estimate on initial timing.

 

[Mattax]

@Mattax is a super smart helpful guy. He helped me tremendously.

You already had much skills and experience building. I just had some insight with the fuel and timing.
Lots of guys here who could help with getting it fired up with a new carb and distributor. Tuning will come later.

@dads71 Check the Shop Manual for which way the clutch should face when shipped. Chrysler had a concern about them leaking if placed faced down (or face up?) I forget which. Apparently that problem was solved but especially with old ones, why take a chance.

 

[dads71]

There are others here who have a lot more experience than me. I have an area or two of knowledge and a bunch of learning the hard way.

H'm. OK. If the carb hasn't been taken out of the box, then this will be a bit different story. How about the distributor and ECU? Did they come with engine? Did he use them on the dyno? Even if the distributor is on the engine, if the engine is going in from up top then in my experience it will be removed during install. Mark the base of the dist to the block as well as the rotor position. That will get you close when reinstalling.

If both the carb and distributor are going for the first time, you and the builder are going to have to do a little reading and/or get some one with experience to give you a hand. The stuff I'm writing about will more sense when you're working with it. At least with me it takes both hands on and reading about how it works before it starts to make sense. Get the cam info and compression and we can make a ballpark estimate on initial timing.

Ya, the distributor is in it…and I think he had timing stuff written on a tag, on the engine. Thanks!

There are others here who have a lot more experience than me. I have an area or two of knowledge and a bunch of learning the hard way.

H'm. OK. If the carb hasn't been taken out of the box, then this will be a bit different story. How about the distributor and ECU? Did they come with engine? Did he use them on the dyno? Even if the distributor is on the engine, if the engine is going in from up top then in my experience it will be removed during install. Mark the base of the dist to the block as well as the rotor position. That will get you close when reinstalling.

If both the carb and distributor are going for the first time, you and the builder are going to have to do a little reading and/or get some one with experience to give you a hand. The stuff I'm writing about will more sense when you're working with it. At least with me it takes both hands on and reading about how it works before it starts to make sense. Get the cam info and compression and we can make a ballpark estimate on initial timing.

 

[dads71]

You already had much skills and experience building. I just had some insight with the fuel and timing.
Lots of guys here who could help with getting it fired up with a new carb and distributor. Tuning will come later.

@dads71 Check the Shop Manual for which way the clutch should face when shipped. Chrysler had a concern about them leaking if placed faced down (or face up?) I forget which. Apparently that problem was solved but especially with old ones, why take a chance.

Ok. Thanks! I’ve had it sitting in my shop for a year and no leaks. So I’ll package it can side up, as it’s been sitting

 

[CFD244]

Ok. Thanks! I’ve had it sitting in my shop for a year and no leaks. So I’ll package it can side up, as it’s been sitting

It's neat to see the passenger side valve cover. It has been said that the 1971 340's had the full wire cover on the Passenger side (as seen on the 1970 models). My 340, which I think is complete and original, has the same right side valve cover as yours. 1971 must have been the break year. My 340 Demon's build date was April 1971. (Pic is a file copy for reference)

 

[- Marvin -]

Great thread!

One week and 258 posts!!!

I have a similar equipped 71 H-Code Duster too, now for 35 years......and my son will inherit it one day.

1971 Plymouth Duster 340 (export car)

Mine has a scheduled production date in March 1971, the trunk light and the rear window defogger, an orange engine and a non-finned trunk lid.

 

[dads71]

It's neat to see the passenger side valve cover. It has been said that the 1971 340's had the full wire cover on the Passenger side (as seen on the 1970 models). My 340, which I think is complete and original, has the same right side valve cover as yours. 1971 must have been the break year. My 340 Demon's build date was April 1971. (Pic is a file copy for reference)

View attachment 1716239888

Ya, pretty cool yo figure stuff like that out. I was told that mine was all original!

 

[dads71]

Great thread!

One week and 258 posts!!!

I have a similar equipped 71 H-Code Duster too, now for 35 years......and my son will inherit it one day.

1971 Plymouth Duster 340 (export car)

Mine has a scheduled production date in March 1971, the trunk light and the rear window defogger, an orange engine and a non-finned trunk lid.

That’s a gorgeous car! Is that B5 blue? That’s the one weird thing about my car…the fender tag says it should have window defogger and trunk light, but it didn’t have either of them

 

[- Marvin -]

That’s a gorgeous car! Is that B5 blue? That’s the one weird thing about my car…the fender tag says it should have window defogger and trunk light, but it didn’t have either of them

Thanks!
No, that is B2 - glacialbluemetallic

It differs strongly in different lighting situations:

 

[dads71]

Thanks!
No, that is B2 - glacialbluemetallic

It differs strongly in different lighting situations:

Ahh. I wondered. Mine varies a lot too, but not that much! Cool colour

 

[- Marvin -]

Here:

Have you ever seen any Dart, Valiant, Demon or Duster with a rear window defroster?

You can learn everything about the quite rare rear window defroster option on Dusters.

 

[dads71]

Here:

Have you ever seen any Dart, Valiant, Demon or Duster with a rear window defroster?

You can learn everything about the quite rare rear window defroster option on Dusters.

Wow. I’ve looked quickly at it. Very cool information there. So maybe mine was supposed to have it, but they never got installed. The builder says the wiring harness didn’t even have spots for them

 

[- Marvin -]

Wow. I’ve looked quickly at it. Very cool information there. So maybe mine was supposed to have it, but they never got installed. The builder says the wiring harness didn’t even have spots for them

But I see the dashboard switch on the picture of Your dash…on page 2

 

[dads71]

Oh really??? Which

But I see the dashboard switch on the picture of Your dash…on pag switch

Oh really??? Which switch? He said there was no wiring etc. But now I’m 2nd guessing it

But I see the dashboard switch on the picture of Your dash…on page 2

 

[- Marvin -]

Oh really??? Which

Oh really??? Which switch? He said there was no wiring etc. But now I’m 2nd guessing it

on the far left side unter the dash - 'rear air'

But it could be the 'map light' switch also....

 

[dads71]

on the far left side unter the dash - 'rear air'

But it could be the 'map light' switch also....

View attachment 1716240149

Ok. Thank you! I can’t see any switches in the pictures I took. I didn’t take any from the proper angle. You can see one in one of my pictures??

 

[dads71]

on the far left side unter the dash - 'rear air'

But it could be the 'map light' switch also....

View attachment 1716240149

Ohh. Maybe this is the picture you’re talking about?

 

[- Marvin -]

Ohh. Maybe this is the picture you’re talking about?

View attachment 1716240290

Yes, looks like such a kind of switch?

 

[dads71]

Yes, looks like such a kind of switch?

Good news! Just got the Friday updates. The engine is in, the rear blower and trunk light have been found (thanks, Marvin) and are being installed. Not many pics, but here are a few. The only think I don’t like are the bumperettes. They were on there when my dad owned it, but I really don’t like the looks of them. I think bumpers are the same….you just pull them off and replace with bolts?

 

[missing linc]

Good news! Just got the Friday updates. The engine is in, the rear blower and trunk light have been found (thanks, Marvin) and are being installed. Not many pics, but here are a few. The only think I don’t like are the bumperettes. They were on there when my dad owned it, but I really don’t like the looks of them. I think bumpers are the same….you just pull them off and replace with bolts?

View attachment 1716242128

View attachment 1716242129

View attachment 1716242130

View attachment 1716242131

View attachment 1716242132

View attachment 1716242133

View attachment 1716242134

View attachment 1716242135

Looking really good! Those bumperettes should be fairly easy to remove, and I agree it would look much better without them.

 

[dads71]

Looking really good! Those bumperettes should be fairly easy to remove, and I agree it would look much better without them.

Thanks! Ya, I’ll likely pull them off once I get it home!

 

[- Marvin -]

I'm ok with the bumper guards - and they are useful.

And optically they 'break up' the relative big and clumsy bumpers