Thanks again for all of the help. The builder was supposed to put all new parts in the car. Then asked me 7 months in if I wanted to buy a new wiring harness for it. I asked him what normally happens and he said that he always just uses the old wiring. In your opinion should I be ordering something like this? Or just use mine if I can find no visible damage etc?
Oh boy!
Ok great. I’ll have a really good look in the morning! I really appreciate your time and efforts!
Your point is a good one. Loose wires, especially with a bit of weight on them, can jiggle around and even if they don't hit somehting immediately, over time the strands next to the crimp gets stressed and break. I certainly am guilty of having ignored and despised the factory wire supports when I first started messing with cars. I've learned to respect them now.
Lets see how bad it is.
Perfect. Thanks! Here are some pics of the fuel gauge. I just took it off. It smells very badly burnt. If I shine a light in the small open space at the bottom, it looks like a burnt coil in there. Hard to tell for sure though. Can this be taken apart without damaging it??
Yes...and I believe you have ordered a new IVR from @67fish383S . His parts and instructions are OUTSTANDING and will show you exactly how to take it apart. Here's a link to his thread in case you need it: [FOR SALE] - Solid State Rallye Gauge Instrument Voltage Regulators (IVR)
They can be taken apart. That's how you defeat the internal voltage regulator when you are installing a solid state IVR. Check out the link I sent you from RTE. They have instructions there.
www.forabodiesonly.com
About the only time I've treed anybody....lol!!They can be taken apart. That's how you defeat the internal voltage regulator when you are installing a solid state IVR. Check out the link I sent you from RTE. They have instructions there.
Damn....Treed by @Demonx2
That link looks like great instructions. For some reason it comes up very blurry on my end. Can’t read any of the writingThey can be taken apart. That's how you defeat the internal voltage regulator when you are installing a solid state IVR. Check out the link I sent you from RTE. They have instructions there.
Damn....Treed by @Demonx2
I checked resistance between A and I and I get zero again. If I switch from I to S, I get 22. That post is pretty complicated for me, as far as testing goes
Some people here have taken them apart, but I have not.
FYI The very center of the back is the ground contact.
You can test for resistance but if you can see one of the wire coils is burned up, then that's not a good sign. A little evidence of heating wouldn't worry me if it resistance was OK.
I test mine three ways.,
First was a resistance test. Then checked and found resistance in the board. Posted here Gauge Cluster Issues/IVR
Then attached a couple batteries to power, and finally used resitors to simulate sending units and test the whpole kit and kaboodle on the bench.
But to your specific situation. Go through this thread for and you'll see the gages should be 20 ohms, andthe IVR should be 50 ohms. if they don't pass that there's no reason to go further.
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The Chrysler Master Tech book and film explain how they work.
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In his thread, Dennis (67fish383S) offers to send a pdf of his instructions if you send him a PM. It sounds like it would be worth your while to send him that PM.
Yea. It was a lot of info for you to absorb in one evening.
Ya. We’ve been messaging. He’s already sent the instructions
Ya. I really appreciate the help! You have a lot of knowledge!
Ahhh. So just slots in the hardboard itself? I have the piece here. I’ll post a picture of it. Thanks!
Here’s mine. It has slots for speaker holes, but nothing for the rear vent. Forgot. Headliner is all fixed now! My friend who does upholstery has it looking mint
lol. Yep. The headliner would definitely fit in his lunch box!!
