Found my dads original 1971 duster!

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For me, the main issue with the amp gauge is having that high amperage circuit running through the "flimsy" bulkhead connector and then again running a high amperage circuit all through the dash harness. The possibility of gauge failure is of some concern, also. All of these could lead to a melt-down/ fire situation. Best to rewire that circuit, usually with larger gauge wiring to accommodate upgraded alternator possibilities, to run only in engine compartment from alternator directly to battery ( or starter relay). I also do not trust the main power feed circuit to ignition switch, running through bulkhead connector. I actually remove the connectors for that circuit from bulkhead connector, drill the opening a little bigger ( through the plastic) and run a new hard wire straight through there and then splice it back into that circuit under dash. Making sure I use a new fusible link on engine compartment side, of course ( on engine compartment side just so it is accessed easier, if need be ). If done neatly and properly, most people won't even notice the difference. All this, along with good redundant grounds, could prevent alot of issues down the road.
Thanks. I see valid points with everything you’ve said. I had a closer look at my wiring today and I think I will likely order a new wiring harness. There are a few splices and some tape in places. I’d rather eliminate any future issues now. I’m this far into it, that I think I’d be foolish to not eliminate anything that might be out of sight etc
 
Hey guys. Does anyone have a picture of what the trim piece looks like that goes over the long vent hole in between the speakers? There must be some sort of cover that goes in on the top of the hardboard. I can’t find anything online. Also anyone know where I could track one down? Thanks!

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