Front end setup (Drag Racing)

[-Boosted-]

Two schools of thought, control wheel movement through REALLY stiff springs or minimal spring strength and control wheel movement with the shock. MUCH easier to adjust a shock than change spring rate. I have /6 bars, no bump stops, QA-1R’s front shocks single adjustables. The real hurdle to front wheel travel is the stock control arm hitting the bump stop mount. Go aftermarket and/or a taller ball joint and now the stock strut rod and is binding up. Aftermarket strut rods and other than the upper a arm pivots not being in plane. You have about as much drop as you’re going to get. Remember the timing of the rise is just as important as the amount. Were it tops out and how is crucial. Also, be very careful with aftermarket shocks, because they tend to be larger in diameter the body of the shock can hit the bump stop pad on the frame. I have seen multiple B bodies and mine hit.

Why no bump stops? Looking at mine, it looks like the shocks would bottom out if the bump stops were removed. No concern over blowing the front shocks when you go wheels up and come back down?

 

[furrystump]

Longer aftermarket front shocks, plus I spaced the stud down a bit. I have not gone to taller ball joints yet. At this point the timing and topping out events seem good for me. This is a bit after peak.

 

[MOPARMAGA]

Two schools of thought, control wheel movement through REALLY stiff springs or minimal spring strength and control wheel movement with the shock. MUCH easier to adjust a shock than change spring rate. I have /6 bars, no bump stops, QA-1R’s front shocks single adjustables. The real hurdle to front wheel travel is the stock control arm hitting the bump stop mount. Go aftermarket and/or a taller ball joint and now the stock strut rod and is binding up. Aftermarket strut rods and other than the upper a arm pivots not being in plane. You have about as much drop as you’re going to get. Remember the timing of the rise is just as important as the amount. Were it tops out and how is crucial. Also, be very careful with aftermarket shocks, because they tend to be larger in diameter the body of the shock can hit the bump stop pad on the frame. I have seen multiple B bodies and mine hit.

Great info, thank you

 

[Cudafever]

Two schools of thought, control wheel movement through REALLY stiff springs or minimal spring strength and control wheel movement with the shock. MUCH easier to adjust a shock than change spring rate. I have /6 bars, no bump stops, QA-1R’s front shocks single adjustables. The real hurdle to front wheel travel is the stock control arm hitting the bump stop mount. Go aftermarket and/or a taller ball joint and now the stock strut rod and is binding up. Aftermarket strut rods and other than the upper a arm pivots not being in plane. You have about as much drop as you’re going to get. Remember the timing of the rise is just as important as the amount. Were it tops out and how is crucial. Also, be very careful with aftermarket shocks, because they tend to be larger in diameter the body of the shock can hit the bump stop pad on the frame. I have seen multiple B bodies and mine hit.

Agree!
Its always a balancing scale. When you don't have enough power/ torque, too keep the load on the back tire at launch. You need a soft front end.
The better your 60" time get, the more you us your front shock to stiffen up and slow down the rise of the front end.
In the end the slower 60', and the faster 60' car, are doing the same thing, trying to control the front end rise to be slow and smooth.

 

[-Boosted-]

Ok, this was a good read. My build is finally ready for a front end alignment and I have one scheduled for next Friday.

Front setup - QA1 k-member, QA1 upper and lower control arms, QA1 strut rods, Factory /6 torsion bars, Calvert 90/10's.
Rear setup - Inboarded Calvert Split mono leafs, Caltracs with springs set to 1" lower, Calvert sliders, Calvert adjustable shocks, Pinion angle set to 4 degrees down.

Here's what I have decided to use for specs.

0 - Camber
5 degrees Caster
1/16" toe in although I am kinda 2nd guessing this one.

We will be checking rear axle alignment as well as making any adjustments to the k-member prior to final alignment.

Any feedback and or suggestions?

Thanks, Bill

 

[Sterling]

5 degrees is nice,if you can get it on both sides. If not , set it for as much positive caster as possible equally, with out binding anything. It is better to have the tire pressures all set, ride height adjusted and the driver or driver’s weight in the driver’s seat. I raise the front end up by the k frame 1” and then preform the alignment. The raised front end simulates the height of the vehicle going through the traps. This is what I do for drag racing.

 

[Bluecuda340]

My car has +5 caster and it drives like a dream. Increased steering effort on the street but it doesn't bother me one bit. Having that much caster and radials front and rear make this thing a dream to drive.

My setup is RMS uppers, RMS strut rods, poly lower bushings, viking DA shocks.