Front seal pouring out.

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Frank Mopar

Frank Mopar

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Coming home from the track my trans (904) started pouring fluid out of the front so bad I was having to fill it to get off the thruway. My daughter was driving and I was pulling my trailer so I had fluid to get it going to nurse it home.

Swapped in a new seal and I didn’t think that was the problem but I put it back in and its still pouring out. This is in neutral only. Havent even put it in gear.

Thoughts?
 
The 904 trans has a problem of cracking the snout and leaking like a sieve. Also if the bushing is loose on the snout, big problem there also.
 
If the bushing was bad I would think a drip long before it started pouring out. I have to take a close look at the snout. That makes a ton of sense. Thanks!
 
Its an aftermarket converter. 2500 stall. I bet it doesn't have 1000 miles on it but I bet the crap out of it so it could be cracked. Thanks
 
Common problem with a "off the shelf" low dollar converter. The snout will crack from the corner of the pump drive notch down to the weld. Only way to fix it is to have the pump drive (snout) replaced. Have a reliable converter shop install a quality pump drive.
 
When Overfilled, the spinning bits foam up the oil and throw it all over the place. Any chance it's coming out of the breather, which, for some reason, Mopar stuck in the Bellhouse. Just guessing.
 
Sounds like a cracked hub or it spun the pump bushing, common issue on 904 series trans.
 
I neglected to ask. What engine (year), and what year trans. If a 68 or newer engine, and 67 or older trans combination you need a adapter bushing or late size converter pilot to support the converter. Without the proper support the converter can "wobble" and ruin the pump bushing/seal/gear.
But to me it still sounds like a cracked hub.
 
1974 engine and the trans is a 999 converted to a non lock. Ill have to get the number off the trans to get the year but being a 999 it should be newer. I think. Engine and trans are not original to each other.
 
Frank Mopar said:
1974 engine and the trans is a 999 converted to a non lock. Ill have to get the number off the trans to get the year but being a 999 it should be newer. I think. Engine and trans are not original to each other.
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That should be OK.
PS: When you look at the converter pump drive, if it is not obviously cracked, use a magnifier. First time it happened to me, the crack was very hard to find.
 
I had my 727 do that same thing many years ago. Oil came pouring out the bottom of the bellhousing after a pass at the track. It was a cracked converter hub. It was not visible to the eye. But I stuffed a rag in the conv snout to seal it up around an air hose and applied air pressure to it. It showed all kinds of bubbles coming out of a crack that started at the sharp corner on the drive tang.

Had the snout replaced and took care of it.
 
Demonx2 said:
I had my 727 do that same thing many years ago. Oil came pouring out the bottom of the bellhousing after a pass at the track. It was a cracked converter hub. It was not visible to the eye. But I stuffed a rag in the conv snout to seal it up around an air hose and applied air pressure to it. It showed all kinds of bubbles coming out of a crack that started at the sharp corner on the drive tang.

Had the snout replaced and took care of it.
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This, I was going to suggest pressurizing it.
 
Spot on gentlemen. Thanks for the advice!
IMG_3950.jpeg
 
Looks like the converter rebuilder never pressure checked the converter for leaks after it was built. Poor workmanship IMHO.
 
Red….. Hughes? Have had a couple friends go through this. Being you’re back east maybe have Dynamic repair it. They’d probably have a more robust drive available. I use the A500 pump gear and drive on my stuff. Just one more problem area to rid of.

IMG_1570.jpeg
 
Frank Mopar said:
I don’t care either but you would expect better.
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Absolutely. When we spend our hard earned $$$$, we shouldn't be seeing that. I don't know what procedure they used, but at ours, after the two halves of the converter were welded together and the converter was still hot and on the welding lathe, a plug was installed in the hub that allowed an air source apply air pressure to the converter. As the converter was slowly rotated, water was poured over the weld, and at hub weld. No bubbles, no leaks, next stop paint and balancing, any air bubbles, converter rejected.
 
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