Frustrated with inability to do body work!

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rod7515 said:
Got to go back out and start some more work on the doors tonight. I noticed where the door mirror bolts to the door the area appears to be dented. Here are some pics.
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I know its hard to see but above you can see just below the 2 holes, the area that appears to be dented down. I am assuming thats not the way it was from new and I need to pull that area up and make it match the rest of the upper side of the door? Also the single hole will need pulled up slightly as well.
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So does this area need work or is this the way it is supposed to be?
Thanks Rod

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Stud gun is really the best option. Absent that pull hooks. It doesn't take much to move that area. If you just have to fill it, I would put a 1st. coat of fiberglass reinforced filler on there. used to be able to a pint can under the Bondo-hair label in Advance or Auto Zone.
 
Theres two types of fiberglass filler. Long strand and short strand. Long strand is hard to work with.
 
I have a can of the short strand and I have been doing the first coat of filler with that. Then go to a regular filler! my biggest issue when doing filler is that I don't seem to be able to make each coat thin enough and I end up sanding the extra of. I see them on TV putting on that skim coat but I haven't been able to learn that trick!
Thanks Rod
 
Some say a carpenter has a good eye for straight and continuity. On my 66, I struggled as well....even with a carpenter's good eye....I think. Would photos or measurements help? I could send some off. I noticed finishing it off with high build. For sure, mild to aggressive on the mud to get close using hand tools for detail work, and finish it up with the high build. Yes, me too, if I were closer. Hang in there, and you will get what your looking for accomplished. Jerry.....Old Dart 66
 
Finally got some work done and decided to put primer on the fenders and doors. Im really happy with the doors. Heres a pic just after they were sprayed tonight.
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I plan on doing the jambs on the doors and hinges this weekend then get the car back into the shed and put the doors and fender back on the car so I can start to fit the car together.
Now the fenders are straight but Im still struggling with the scallops on the front of the fenders. Here are pics of them.
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Here are some close ups of the problem on the scallop area. You can see it on the 2nd fender pic which is the drivers side. Here are some close ups of them.
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I have an old body guy coming tomorrow night to take a look and give me some helpful hints on best way of going about cleaning that up. (I Hope!)
I think im very close just need to get it a little closer. It looks to me like i didnt bring the line quite far enough on both fenders. Im hoping its an easy fix. But the good thing is that all the holes I welded look very straight to me and the area that I had to cut and put metal in the fenders looks good as well. Theres just on spot on the one fender lip I need to make a little nicer. See pic below
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Your suggestions and comments are more then welcome. And as always thanks for following and helping me along,
Rod
 
Hey Rod, Just a note. I think your doing a great job based on the photos. Like George says, a little fine tuning. There are all sorts of videos on youtube that show how to use primer surfacer and guide coats (blocking). This technique works very well for getting away from the "wave." This may help you, guide coating and blocking is tedious, but the end results....you will be very happy. Best. Old Dart 66.
 
Just remember, if the metal is flexing while you are blocking, you are making waves. Let the paper do the work.

You will likely need to prime and block several times.
 
You shouldn't feel bad. Real, honest to goodness body work is a God given gift, IMO. It is also a dying art form IMO as well.

With these newer cars, much is designed to be crumpled and replaced, rather than repaired, so real body men (or women) are growing more and more scarce, except of course in specialized restoration shops. I think one could really say the vintage car builder and repair service industry in general is a dying art form.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You shouldn't feel bad. Real, honest to goodness body work is a God given gift, IMO. It is also a dying art form IMO as well.

With these newer cars, much is designed to be crumpled and replaced, rather than repaired, so real body men (or women) are growing more and more scarce, except of course in specialized restoration shops. I think one could really say the vintage car builder and repair service industry in general is a dying art form.
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I totally agree.
The new tech is taking over the world. A true metalwork repair is going the way of the dinosaur.
They are still teaching it, but it wont be around much longer.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Just remember, if the metal is flexing while you are blocking, you are making waves. Let the paper do the work.
You will likely need to prime and block several times.
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Hey 68, excellent point on the metal flex.....I should have mentioned that in my response....soft easy multidirectional strokes, and yes, let the paper do the work, and just to be on the same page, and not at all critical, I use PPG-K36 primer/surfacer. Blocking out primer would be a chore.
Old Dart 66
 
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RustyRatRod said:
You shouldn't feel bad. Real, honest to goodness body work is a God given gift, IMO. It is also a dying art form IMO as well.

With these newer cars, much is designed to be crumpled and replaced, rather than repaired, so real body men (or women) are growing more and more scarce, except of course in specialized restoration shops. I think one could really say the vintage car builder and repair service industry in general is a dying art form.
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You are so right. Bodymen are artists like painters and sculpturers (OK so I can spell and don't know crap about spell check)....They have the eye and can feel what we can't see or feel... But it does not mean you can't learn, the curve is steep! At least for me.

Body/paint work is the backbone of a resto business. Why there are so few and costs $
 
barbee6043 said:
You are so right. Bodymen are artists like painters and sculpturers (OK so I can spell and don't know crap about spell check)....They have the eye and can feel what we can't see or feel... But it does not mean you can't learn, the curve is steep! At least for me.

Body/paint work is the backbone of a resto business. Why there are so few and costs $
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Yup. Sho nuff.
 
Oh and to the OP, I think your fender is turning out very nicely!
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate all the comments and suggestions. I spent the day sanding to prepare the doors and fenders for some real paint either tonight or tomorrow. I'm only doing the area on the fenders that will be under the hood, and then on the doors only doing the jamb area and the interior side of the door. Im waiting to do the skins once everything is put together and hopefully lined up nice and straight! I had an old body guy stop in last night to give me some additional information and guidance and he came around again today. He sees things I dont and having a second eye helps out a lot. It also makes more work but its stuff I missed the first time! I've said this before but i'll say it again, sanding sucks, so anyone that enjoys sanding has a special talent! And yes body work is an art and few have it. Im not one of them but i'm trying!
Rod
 
rod7515 said:
Thanks guys, I appreciate all the comments and suggestions. I spent the day sanding to prepare the doors and fenders for some real paint either tonight or tomorrow. I'm only doing the area on the fenders that will be under the hood, and then on the doors only doing the jamb area and the interior side of the door. Im waiting to do the skins once everything is put together and hopefully lined up nice and straight! I had an old body guy stop in last night to give me some additional information and guidance and he came around again today. He sees things I dont and having a second eye helps out a lot. It also makes more work but its stuff I missed the first time! I've said this before but i'll say it again, sanding sucks, so anyone that enjoys sanding has a special talent! And yes body work is an art and few have it. Im not one of them but i'm trying!
Rod
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Hey Rod, It is not so bad...really. The sanding work, yes, is tedious, but the reward comes in the end. Careful though. Not to frighten you, but the flaws show up when the base coat clear coat go on. I block, guide coat, block guide coat, over and over using a quality primer surfacer with an appropriate wipe down between each coat. A good trick is to spray your panels with "clean" water, using a good light on the surface. This mimics the clear coat, and the imperfections, if any, will show up. Of course, you've got a good body guy coaching you on site. Keep up the good work. By the way, using the longest block that you can on any given panel is a plus. I know, those 66 fenders have a lot of detail.....been there, done that. Best. Old Dart 66
 
Clean water? There's something ive never heard before. Tell me more about this technique. I'm anxious to learn a new trick.
Thanks Rod
 
rod7515 said:
Clean water? There's something ive never heard before. Tell me more about this technique. I'm anxious to learn a new trick.
Thanks Rod
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Better than dirty water. Lol
One advantage of sanding mine outside... Used a sponge and bucket some, but had the hose nearby for rinsing.
 
rod7515 said:
Clean water? There's something ive never heard before. Tell me more about this technique. I'm anxious to learn a new trick.
Thanks Rod
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Yes Rod, After guide coat blocking a number of times, I use a clean clean clean, such as a Windex spray bottle, and I apply a few squirts of clean water, then I wipe the panel down with, for example a clean dry dish towel which applies the water evenly. Kind of like the pavement on a street after a light rain at night giving a bit of a shimmer. Then shine a light from behind you....using a lamp, and the panel will shine like it has a coat of clear coat on it. This technique will expose any waves, nicks, or low spots you may have missed using your guide coats. You are aware of the definition of a guide coat being a light mist of a fast drying spray bomb paint which is compatible with your primer surfacer.....so you do not develop any lift, and that the mist will adhere on the low spots and can be painted over with the next coat of primer surfacer. Again, using the longest block that you can, given the panel, you will be able to see the low spots by the mist spray that is left behind. I use my eye, my feel of the hand, and the guide coats, primarily. My final test is the water mist where I am looking to confirm that I have the panel as true to whatever ambient light the car will be exposed to....from bright sun, to a night time street light. Believe me, the water trick will tell the truth on body work. So far, no complaints.....soooooo far. Check out the YouTube channels on blocking. Now is the time to do it....especially with all of your hard work and the $400.00 plus per gallon base coat....and then add the clear coat cost. Hope these thoughts were helpful. Looking forward to your final photo in the "sun." Best. Old Dart 66.
 
Rinse the panel and stand back and look for waves. I prefer wax and grease remover out of a spray bottle for this. There is also a spray bomb product that puts a shine on for the same
 
GeorgeH said:
Rinse the panel and stand back and look for waves. I prefer wax and grease remover out of a spray bottle for this. There is also a spray bomb product that puts a shine on for the same
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Hey George, Indeed there are products out there, I guess I use what has worked for me. The old wax and grease remover gave more of a sheen than the new low VOC. Thank you for your opinion. Some say that well water does not work so well as it has too many minerals in it. Maybe distilled water, but i never had trouble since I wipe it with W and G remover before the next coat to be sure the surface is clean. Thanks for the input. Best. Old Dart 66.
 
Old Dart 66 said:
Hey George, Indeed there are products out there, I guess I use what has worked for me. The old wax and grease remover gave more of a sheen than the new low VOC. Thank you for your opinion. Some say that well water does not work so well as it has too many minerals in it. Maybe distilled water, but i never had trouble since I wipe it with W and G remover before the next coat to be sure the surface is clean. Thanks for the input. Best. Old Dart 66.
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Never liked straight water because it runs down the side and can be misleading
 
barbee6043 said:
You are so right. Bodymen are artists like painters and sculpturers (OK so I can spell and don't know crap about spell check)....They have the eye and can feel what we can't see or feel...
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There's some truth in that. I was always the kid that took the art classes and had art and pottery on display in the school.
 
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GeorgeH said:
Never liked straight water because it runs down the side and can be misleading
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Yes George, you are definitely right on that call....the running down the side. Wiping after the water spray works very well in order to eliminate the runs. I suppose time elapsed after the wiping and the size of the panel will be/can be an issue...all depends.....but excellent point. Whatever works, as we all learn each day. Best. Old Dart 66.
 
I like the suggestion but you just threw in another question. You are saying well water has minerals that may effect the result. I have a well so maybe I should go with the grease and wax remover. I have a gallon of that which i used before I sprayed with primer. If I use that how long can it be on the surface before it needs wiped down. Before I paint I wipe it on with one rag in one hand and wipe it right off with a clean dry towel in other hand. What happens if it dries while on the surface. I like this learning class! Thanks
Rod
 
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