Fully Built 225 Slant Six Pricing Question

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Buy a car with the V8 done how you want swap the /6 and resale.
i dunno about that. after you account for labor, unknown entities and the time and hassle of selling a car i don't think you come up in the black on that endeavor.

it's almost like if you lived in tract housing and sold your house and bought the one across the street because you liked the kitchen remodel.
 
Hello! Long time reader, first time poster. I have a 225 Slant Six in my 1963 Dodge Dart that is quite built up, and I'm looking to sell it so I can trade up to a small block V8. The problem is, I have no idea what it's worth, and I feel like I'd get more value selling it as a whole, rather than parting it out (which will also take a lot longer).

Here are the details:
- 225 Slant Six Rebuilt about 15 years ago, but only driven about 10-15k miles since. (At most.) It sits a lot, job takes too much of my time.
- Bored 0.060 out, crank ground 0.10 under, decked, ported and polished, bigger valves, Isky cam (not sure which one).
- Jacobs Ignition
- Pertronix
- NGK Plugs
- Taylor Wires
- Holley 390 CFM 4 Barrel
- Offenhauser 4 Barrel Intake Manifold
- Headers
- Mini High-Torque Starter
- Lokar Throttle Cables
- K&N Air Filter
- Slight oil leak from the valve cover.
- Had a AAA inspection about 8 years ago, came back clean except the usual little leaks and creaks.
- It runs, but the carb needs a refresh, it didn't get driven much during the pandemic, so it sat for a bit.

So, the question is, about how much should I ask for the whole package?

Also, I have the original automatic torqueflite that was rebuilt about the same time. It runs and shifts fine, but has a small leak at the pan. What's it worth separately? As part a package with the engine?

Thanks!

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I notice few willing to stick their toe in the water and give you a dollar number. I don't have that hesitation. But first I am not sure why you are selling a nice, unique, sorted out motor to try and tackle a common variety mild small block install with all those hassles. Having a buyer see/hear/drive it run is a huge plus/advantage to help sell. As a buyer I'd really like to know details on cam, CR, and pistons, but that is not a deal breaker.
I would suggest asking $4K as fair middle ground, anything $2K and below is worth just storing it, or calling me if that is not an option. It's a cool motor, you only need one buyer with cash.

Good Luck.
 
But first I am not sure why you are selling a nice, unique, sorted out motor to try and tackle a common variety mild small block install

Good Luck.

I'd like a motor that I can have someone else tune/repair when I don't have the time. Most shops won't touch a built 6 around here, and if they do, they don't really know what they're doing. So, it'd be nice to have a 360 I can basically take anywhere. So, primary reason is just, looking for a change. Also, it'd be nice to have a V8 back in the stable.
 
"Most shops won't touch a built 6 around here, and if they do, they don't really know what they're doing."

These are the simplest motors on the planet built and designed in the last 60? years. If that intimidates them, you are at the wrong car shop or the reason is bogus.
 
that's true, but not only is the number of shops that work on vintage cars vanishingly small but the amount people at those shops capable of doing such work even smaller. adjusting valves and tuning carbs is becoming a lost art.

it's also monetarily driven. for example, with paint work nobody wants to mess with vintage cars unless it's a full repaint and mega bucks and even then it's few and far between. those guys are so busy with crash and splash insurance work that changing up their workflow for something different is more of a hindrance than the money they'd make.
 
"Most shops won't touch a built 6 around here, and if they do, they don't really know what they're doing."

These are the simplest motors on the planet built and designed in the last 60? years. If that intimidates them, you are at the wrong car shop or the reason is bogus.
I worked on a slant six powered car a few months ago, for someone else. I was told it had been to several shops and they were not able to fix it. Before the car was even unloaded from the trailer, I noticed several things. PVC hose not connected, accelerator pump in the carb not working, Valves clattering real bad. Found a few more things wrong after I started checking things, but nothing serious. All kind of basic stuff. But the shops today don't have techs that know anything about solid lifters, carbs, or distributors. Today, if you have an "old" car, you need to be able to fix it yourself, or know an old fart like me that can help you out. And us old farts need to pass on our knowledge, as we are moving on to the "mega shop".
 
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I worked on a slant six powered car a few months ago, for someone else. I was told it had been to several shops and they were not able to fix it. Before the car was even unloaded from the trailer, I noticed several things. PVC hose not connected, accelerator pump in the carb not working, Valves clattering real bad. Found a few more things wrong after I started checking things, but nothing serious. All kind of basic stuff. But the shops today don't have techs that know anything about solid lifters, carbs, or distributors. Today, if you have an "old" car, you need to be able to fix it yourself, or know an old fart like me that can help you out. And us old farts need to pass on our knowledge, as we are moving on to the "mega shop".
Ok, you made your point, if they can't plug a computer into it, they are clueless. :lol:
 
I like the turbo idea.

That's a clean slant.

Might get more out of a trade.

Meh, tuned port efi with a turbo and meth.

You will be the only one on the block. Suits the moredoor theme.

$0.02

Velcommen!
 
The
Ok, you made your point, if they can't plug a computer into it, they are clueless. :lol:
At the GM dealership I worked at as my last job before retirement, the absolutely lowest charge was as soon as you signed the ticket authorizing repairs, you owed $150
For "computer assessment". The car would not be touched for repairs until
It had been assessed.
 
I like the turbo idea.

That's a clean slant.

Might get more out of a trade.

Meh, tuned port efi with a turbo and meth.

You will be the only one on the block. Suits the moredoor theme.

$0.02

Velcommen!
Not on my block

IMG_7501.JPG
 
I completely agree with Charrlie's statement. I guess we are both cave men.
Same as when you go into a parts store and give them a brand and part number.Usually the stores own part number.
First thing they say is "What car is it for ? " I just gave you the part and YOUR part number,the computer won't let you look it up buy the number ? Ok I did it again. Sorry Gone2plaid.com. Rant over.
 
The

At the GM dealership I worked at as my last job before retirement, the absolutely lowest charge was as soon as you signed the ticket authorizing repairs, you owed $150
For "computer assessment". The car would not be touched for repairs until
It had been assessed.
Yet another reason nobody touches my vehicles besides me/ except for things like machine work, (and I do all the disassembly myself) and front end alignment (I wish I had access to a rack like I used to, back then I even did that myself as I was an alignment guy for 20 years .... )
 
Hello! Long time reader, first time poster. I have a 225 Slant Six in my 1963 Dodge Dart that is quite built up, and I'm looking to sell it so I can trade up to a small block V8. The problem is, I have no idea what it's worth, and I feel like I'd get more value selling it as a whole, rather than parting it out (which will also take a lot longer).

Here are the details:
- 225 Slant Six Rebuilt about 15 years ago, but only driven about 10-15k miles since. (At most.) It sits a lot, job takes too much of my time.
- Bored 0.060 out, crank ground 0.10 under, decked, ported and polished, bigger valves, Isky cam (not sure which one).
- Jacobs Ignition
- Pertronix
- NGK Plugs
- Taylor Wires
- Holley 390 CFM 4 Barrel
- Offenhauser 4 Barrel Intake Manifold
- Headers
- Mini High-Torque Starter
- Lokar Throttle Cables
- K&N Air Filter
- Slight oil leak from the valve cover.
- Had a AAA inspection about 8 years ago, came back clean except the usual little leaks and creaks.
- It runs, but the carb needs a refresh, it didn't get driven much during the pandemic, so it sat for a bit.

So, the question is, about how much should I ask for the whole package?

Also, I have the original automatic torqueflite that was rebuilt about the same time. It runs and shifts fine, but has a small leak at the pan. What's it worth separately? As part a package with the engine?

Thanks!

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Dude, we should talk! Also in Orange County, CA (RSM) and I've gone the other direction.. Done with 360s and very much enjoying my slant powered car.. I've got a bone stock 5.9L magnum, and a reasonably built 360/904 combo from my 67 barracuda that came out after a reckless teen driver crunched the side of my car while it was parked at the school I taught at.. We can talk specs if you're interested.. I'll PM you my info..
 
Hello! Long time reader, first time poster. I have a 225 Slant Six in my 1963 Dodge Dart that is quite built up, and I'm looking to sell it so I can trade up to a small block V8. The problem is, I have no idea what it's worth, and I feel like I'd get more value selling it as a whole, rather than parting it out (which will also take a lot longer).

Here are the details:
- 225 Slant Six Rebuilt about 15 years ago, but only driven about 10-15k miles since. (At most.) It sits a lot, job takes too much of my time.
- Bored 0.060 out, crank ground 0.10 under, decked, ported and polished, bigger valves, Isky cam (not sure which one).
- Jacobs Ignition
- Pertronix
- NGK Plugs
- Taylor Wires
- Holley 390 CFM 4 Barrel
- Offenhauser 4 Barrel Intake Manifold
- Headers
- Mini High-Torque Starter
- Lokar Throttle Cables
- K&N Air Filter
- Slight oil leak from the valve cover.
- Had a AAA inspection about 8 years ago, came back clean except the usual little leaks and creaks.
- It runs, but the carb needs a refresh, it didn't get driven much during the pandemic, so it sat for a bit.

So, the question is, about how much should I ask for the whole package?

Also, I have the original automatic torqueflite that was rebuilt about the same time. It runs and shifts fine, but has a small leak at the pan. What's it worth separately? As part a package with the engine?

Thanks!

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Go see a shrink and get yur head straight. Fix the minor leaks and drive it. You will lose a pile on the slant and cost a pile doing the swap.
 
Slants are known for their durability. Put a turbo on it.
My set up in the early 1990's was a simple draw through 600cfm vac secondary that I would drive to the various local strips here in S.E. Pa. No issues. Had fun pissing off Vetts and Stangs. Have fun with a challenge is the key.
 
After 45 years in the old Mopar hobby, and how many many dozens of cars?, I can honestly say, 98% of the time I can sell off one of my old cars and get the $ back I put in, are the ones I spent NO $ on! Those that I catually got back my $, those 2% are the ones I did the body/paint and nothing else!! NOTHING ELSE!!!!! except maybe just getting it running.....

I bet on selling it off in pieces unless the right guy comes along for a test drive and runs as it should. Slant stuff is cheap when selling...... and usually when buying.
 
I agree 100%, the swap will cost multiples of what I could ever get from the engine, but I was hoping to recoup a bit of the swap cost at least.
Fair question. I won't have more time, but I'm hoping a fresh twist will revive my interest a bit, so I'll be more inclined to drive it some more, and spend more time on it. Also, I'm not sure if you guys can relate. But, I've spent the last 30ish years responding to the question, "Why don't you drop a V8 in there?" :D Which is hilarious because up until the pandemic, I've always had one of the cleanest engines and engine compartments you'll see on a resto-mod-survivor. But, they finally wore me down! :rofl:
I've got a 76 Plymouth Feather Duster and I get asked that also Why don't you put a 318 or a360 in it And I say Why I get close to 15 miles to the gallon in town and 25 to 28 on the highway if I do 65mph I bought it for the mileage if I put a 360 in it I'd end up 6ft. Under ground I did put a 78 Super Six in it Because the /6 that was in thru a rod b4 isaved it from the wrecking yard paid $50 for it
 
$50 ? For a while car? You suck and seeing where you're from I'm guessing it's rust free.... double suck
 
$50 ? For a while car? You suck and seeing where you're from I'm guessing it's rust free.... double suck
Unfotuniely it did have some rust in the floor driver side. I know how fiberglass and it was not big spots so I cut the bad out rivit good metal in then fiberglassed over and under very sturdy I would hvae boughtreplacement but I'm fixing this with a no dollar budget. but it had a few dents on driver side f. fender door and small one in back quarter but i have front fender , door and i do body and fender work no bondo I use glass because it don't crack or fallout no more then 1/9 inch thick
 
I did that on a 78 d300 dually I once had, the fiberglass over new sheet metal deal
In the cab it was the quietest truck I've had after the fiberglass overlay.
 
Unfotuniely it did have some rust in the floor driver side. I know how fiberglass and it was not big spots so I cut the bad out rivit good metal in then fiberglassed over and under very sturdy I would hvae boughtreplacement but I'm fixing this with a no dollar budget. but it had a few dents on driver side f. fender door and small one in back quarter but i have front fender , door and i do body and fender work no bondo I use glass because it don't crack or fallout no more then 1/9 inch thick
It will rust eventually. Moisture weasels under the glass and you are done. Bigger problem than initially. Watch Fitzee's Fabrications videos and he shows how to built repair panels simply with basic tools. Then butt weld the patch panels in.
 
I used to do fiberglass for WESTERN R.V. fixing the crap that got damaged coming down the line.and if You use a laminate roller which gets rid of the bubbles and after glass I under coated outside on the bottom undercoat on inside.While the undercoat was just about dry. I Put sound proofing on floor inside.I think it will last another 40 years.
 
^^^ Corvettes steel door hinges to fiberglass doors for example. Fiberglass might not be considered the right way, but like he said,it can be made to work and for decades.
 
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