getting a parts list together and would like input

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72moparswinger

72moparswinger

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Hey guys so I recently purchased a 1969 close gear ratio abody 4 spd, pedal assembly and small block bell housing. got a pretty good deal from what I can see from what prices are on brewers performance. This is a entire new game for me and need all the advice I can get.

my list I made of the parts I need, feel free to mention if I missed key parts! I think I am missing a couple? feel free to mention any clutches you guys like and dislike.
external balanced flywheel for my 360 part #dcc-4529110
linkage kit from brewers that includes the shifter mechanism
10.5 in clutch kit (center force)
gasket seal kit
reconditioned clutch fork
ball stud bracket
z bar
clutch adjuster
fork pivot
floor tunnel
shifter lever itself
frame mount ball stud bracket
clutch rod boot
 
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Transmission mount
I may have missed some of your terminology but if you had a picture of all the parts you had I'm sure I could connect the dots. it looks like a few are missing Springs and such...
edit: oh ya, you won't regret it !
 
j par said:
Transmission mount
I may have missed some of your terminology but if you had a picture of all the parts you had I'm sure I could connect the dots. it looks like a few are missing Springs and such...
Click to expand...

are the trans amounts from a 904 different from this 4spd?
Here is a pic of my parts so far, there is a spring on the pedal assembly.

Pretty much the key big ticket items lol

i6f5v7.jpg
 
The close ratio box is a 2.47 low.It came out in the 1970 T/A cars. You will need 4.10s to get off the line briskly.
Don't forget the little bushings in the Z-bar, and the wire retainer,the pilot bearing, the TO bearing, And, I highly recommend not to buy the CFII disc.With a stout 360;it will break 7260 joints,the yokes, and tear out the D/S loops.At 420 hp it will still bust 7290 stuff. .....Unless you run skinny tires, but what would be the point of that? lol
 
I was in the same boat last year. Had acquired a ton of used parts over the years. Over half of my parts turned out to be junk.

Z-bar with dougs or tti's require some fabrication. (Depending on what you have you can buy one that's suppose to work with these headers)

I would buy the Brewers rebuild kit after you take the transmission all apart (unless you know it was a functioning piece. Mine looked good but after torn down the main shaft was junk)

Steel shift forks are cheap insurance.

Make sure your crank is drilled for the pilot bushing. If not there is a couple different options.

Check your bearing retainer diameter/bell housing.

Remove over center spring with the center force diafram clutch.

Test reverse switch while the fluid is out.

If I had to do it over again I would have just bought most of the stuff from Brewers in the first place and been done with it. Great conpany to deal with.
 
AJ/FormS said:
The close ratio box is a 2.47 low.It came out in the 1970 T/A cars. You will need 4.10s to get off the line briskly.
Don't forget the little bushings in the Z-bar, and the wire retainer,the pilot bearing, the TO bearing, And, I highly recommend not to buy the CFII disc.With a stout 360;it will break 7260 joints,the yokes, and tear out the D/S loops.At 420 hp it will still bust 7290 stuff. .....Unless you run skinny tires, but what would be the point of that? lol
Click to expand...


Thanks for your advice, My 360 right now is putting out around 320hp and is a street cruiser mainly. I'm still uncertain if it really is a close gear ratio but it is a small retainer trans so its not a OD and it came out of a 1970 340 Duster, he said the speedo was set for 4.10s and Im running a 3.23. he opened up the case and its like new inside. The vin tag stamp on the side of the case is blank which makes me think its a factory replacement trans from over the counter mopar from back in the day. Brewers pretty much has it all but ill add the bushings for the z bar and of course the pilot bearing/ throwout. Im running 225 tires in the rear so I'm sure they will spin all day
 
skep419 said:
I was in the same boat last year. Had acquired a ton of used parts over the years. Over half of my parts turned out to be junk.

Z-bar with dougs or tti's require some fabrication. (Depending on what you have you can buy one that's suppose to work with these headers)

I would buy the Brewers rebuild kit after you take the transmission all apart (unless you know it was a functioning piece. Mine looked good but after torn down the main shaft was junk)

Steel shift forks are cheap insurance.

Make sure your crank is drilled for the pilot bushing. If not there is a couple different options.

Check your bearing retainer diameter/bell housing.

Remove over center spring with the center force diafram clutch.

Test reverse switch while the fluid is out.

If I had to do it over again I would have just bought most of the stuff from Brewers in the first place and been done with it. Great conpany to deal with.
Click to expand...


I don't think the the crank is drilled for the pilot bushing, what would be my options?
 
No problem I did this all with the slant 6 automatic car a few years ago and now drag race the car. I did it on the cheap or at least as cheap as I could. You will have to call Brewers for a few parts No Doubt. Like the moving Parts again the bushings and things like that. Don't forget you'll need a dust cover and also a flywheel inspection cover. I'm not sure if the 904 transmission mount will fit but again Brewers is a great craft cross reference.
72moparswinger said:
Thanks man
Click to expand...
 
he said the speedo was set for 4.10s and Im running a 3.23.
Click to expand...
Then you will need either to transfer the speed-O gear from the previous tranny, or order a new one.
At 320 hp I would not be scared to run a factory 340 clutch kit.
The slanty A/T rear-crossmember fit my A-833 perfectly.
You might as well buy some extra sets of 205s then, cuz they won't last but a week or two.lol
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Then you will need either to transfer the speed-O gear from the previous tranny, or order a new one.
At 320 hp I would not be scared to run a factory 340 clutch kit.
The slanty A/T rear-crossmember fit my A-833 perfectly.
You might as well buy some extra sets of 205s then, cuz they won't last but a week or two.lol
Click to expand...


My buddy is giving me his center force clutch today for free! love the mopar community. I got a slanty sitting near me that I want to buy for parts and now I know I can use a part off of it lol
 
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