I noticed the same with my 63 Belvedere. Installed the front licence plate and the running down the road temperature was 10+ degrees higher than without the plate. A restriction in air flow for sure. I have no front bumper or the lower valance on the car anymore but that plate in front of the lower part of the radiator was the culprit .
Glamour Shots.. '62 Valiant Wagon
- Thread starter slant six
- Start date
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abdywgn
dismantler
what is the saying about having no luck at all? your balancer problem reminds me of a friends problem. blasting down the hiway, smoke starts rolling out from under the car. He slows down, nurses it to where he is going. it's dark out, of course. no oil. puts oil in, starts it up, no noise, good oil pressure but a stream of oil near the oil filter. (it's a 440). gets a flashlight to see where it is coming from: a sliver of the balancer broke off and impaled a black letter on his Fram filter. oh, I remember, if it wasn't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all.
Love the car! If I could find something like that around here, I'd use it for my daily driver. Great work!
Love the car! If I could find something like that around here, I'd use it for my daily driver. Great work!
Richard Sweet
Well-Known Member
Glad to see that you got it back on the road. Nice looking car.
6/26/24
Today I continued with finishing the fiddly jobs -
The new accelerator pedal from the D100 Truck needed the existing throttle cable repositioned, due to this the outer cable sheath was about an inch too short, so I ordered a new one and got that alll solved and corrected.
Some wiring on the firewall both inside the passenger compartment and underhood needed rerouted.
I found an old 3 gauge mounting pod, cleaned it up, and mounted it along with the oil pressure gauge (it was taped to the dash before), and the O2 sensor and gauge were installed as well. The wire routing under dash and under hood were all cleaned up and sorted as well.
For now, I have only one fiddly job left to do: Fix or reroute the exhaust as it goes past/near the left-side rear shock absorber. It rubs a bit and eventually, it will break the rubber membrane on the air shock meaning it will not work. When I built the exhaust the pass around the shock was not a problem as the axle was hanging down, but when there is weight on the car it interferes.
Some pictures:
New front License plate position: lower so hopefully it allows more air to the radiator.
Compared to before:
I installed one of the Dodge D100-D300 pedal brackets and fulcrums from say a 1972-1980 Truck / Ramchaarger before when I wanted to use a cable accelerator pedal on my '64 Dart. It bolted fine and required just drilling the firewall for the new studs.
It's a different story for the 1960-62 A body firewall. Much less space under there and fewer flat areas too!
So I had to do some fabbing and cutting/welding to make the new OE Style Pedal work with a throttle cable for the 4 barrel.
All of that was in an effoert to replace this Lokar billet hot rod pedal that looks great on a 33 ford street rod.
With this:
These tall / more forward OE '60-'66 Pedals make the heel-toe downshifting technique very easy too! FYI!!
First time I ever had to spend 4 hours to cut and modify an OE accelerator linkage.
Added the vintage 3 Gauge pod. I need to fill that 3rd spot or get a block off plate to finish it out.
O2 Sensor was installed to dial that carbby's PV and Jetting even better.
Now I just need to get the car out to check my work and begin carb tuning.
Today I continued with finishing the fiddly jobs -
The new accelerator pedal from the D100 Truck needed the existing throttle cable repositioned, due to this the outer cable sheath was about an inch too short, so I ordered a new one and got that alll solved and corrected.
Some wiring on the firewall both inside the passenger compartment and underhood needed rerouted.
I found an old 3 gauge mounting pod, cleaned it up, and mounted it along with the oil pressure gauge (it was taped to the dash before), and the O2 sensor and gauge were installed as well. The wire routing under dash and under hood were all cleaned up and sorted as well.
For now, I have only one fiddly job left to do: Fix or reroute the exhaust as it goes past/near the left-side rear shock absorber. It rubs a bit and eventually, it will break the rubber membrane on the air shock meaning it will not work. When I built the exhaust the pass around the shock was not a problem as the axle was hanging down, but when there is weight on the car it interferes.
Some pictures:
New front License plate position: lower so hopefully it allows more air to the radiator.
Compared to before:
I installed one of the Dodge D100-D300 pedal brackets and fulcrums from say a 1972-1980 Truck / Ramchaarger before when I wanted to use a cable accelerator pedal on my '64 Dart. It bolted fine and required just drilling the firewall for the new studs.
It's a different story for the 1960-62 A body firewall. Much less space under there and fewer flat areas too!
So I had to do some fabbing and cutting/welding to make the new OE Style Pedal work with a throttle cable for the 4 barrel.
All of that was in an effoert to replace this Lokar billet hot rod pedal that looks great on a 33 ford street rod.
With this:
These tall / more forward OE '60-'66 Pedals make the heel-toe downshifting technique very easy too! FYI!!
First time I ever had to spend 4 hours to cut and modify an OE accelerator linkage.
Added the vintage 3 Gauge pod. I need to fill that 3rd spot or get a block off plate to finish it out.
O2 Sensor was installed to dial that carbby's PV and Jetting even better.
Now I just need to get the car out to check my work and begin carb tuning.
Thanks, I dont know if you can push start/ catch in gear modern cars with all of the electronic sensors and electtic fuel pump and such, but you can with this one. So I saved myself $100 or more by not needing that tow truck.
O2 sensor just on one bank?
Yep that will give me a relatively good idea of what is happening. I guess i could futz with one on the rear set but I doubt it would be much different.
If you did that, would you get two separate signals, or just one?
I guess you could just put the one sensor in the single pipe where the two come together......but I believe how you have it will suffice.
Got to the shop today,
O2 gauge said a bit rich, so I swapped for the next leaner Primary Jet.
Looks about perfect now, had to set the idle a skosh rich..12.7 or so to keep it alive at a stop sign. No dashpot on this carbby.
The helper was around today to kick off the jetting session:
I also might experiment with going a jet size up on the the secondary circuit. It runs real well now, just sometimes it's 13.x on full throttle and I would perfer 12.x
Also I have to take a highway trip and see if my cooling issue is sorted.
O2 gauge said a bit rich, so I swapped for the next leaner Primary Jet.
Looks about perfect now, had to set the idle a skosh rich..12.7 or so to keep it alive at a stop sign. No dashpot on this carbby.
The helper was around today to kick off the jetting session:
I also might experiment with going a jet size up on the the secondary circuit. It runs real well now, just sometimes it's 13.x on full throttle and I would perfer 12.x
Also I have to take a highway trip and see if my cooling issue is sorted.
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