Goodbye Torqstorm, hello Spoolius Ceasar

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I use a trigger wheel cut from the CAD diagram Subcom sent me. It cost me under $40 to have it made. I probably have the diagram if he can’t find it. I use an unmodified magnum distributor; cap and everything! I went with a 4150 style throttle body because I wanted to retain my carb hat and existing charge pipe configuration. There is also airflow distribution to consider when converting a carburetor manifold which tilted my decision towards 4150.

I use a microsquirt which has a similar number of inputs/outputs to the unit you’re looking at, and I regret it. I’d strongly suggest choosing something with more inputs/outputs especially since you’re already interested in data logging. You may also want to look at slightly bigger injectors(120lb?) unless you’re sure to be done with e85. I’m at 85% injector duty cycle at 15psi, 12:1afr, and 50% ethanol with 96lb injectors.
 
I use a trigger wheel cut from the CAD diagram Subcom sent me. It cost me under $40 to have it made. I probably have the diagram if he can’t find it. I use an unmodified magnum distributor; cap and everything! I went with a 4150 style throttle body because I wanted to retain my carb hat and existing charge pipe configuration. There is also airflow distribution to consider when converting a carburetor manifold which tilted my decision towards 4150.

I use a microsquirt which has a similar number of inputs/outputs to the unit you’re looking at, and I regret it. I’d strongly suggest choosing something with more inputs/outputs especially since you’re already interested in data logging. You may also want to look at slightly bigger injectors(120lb?) unless you’re sure to be done with e85. I’m at 85% injector duty cycle at 15psi, 12:1afr, and 50% ethanol with 96lb injectors.
Yea, I'm not using a stock pulley, so I think I can order a solid style trigger wheel and then have it cut to fit over the lip on my balancer ring. My balancer has an extra ring on the outer edge that would be perfect to center a wheel on. If you guys find the cad that would be cool, I'm not opposed to changing out my crank pulley. I can always set everything up with the msd box and prep it for a later upgrade to CNP.

As far as I/O on the ms3 gold lite, so far it looks like it will handle what I need at the moment. But it also boasts the ability of adding a can us expansion module. But I have been eyeing the normal gol
d box too.

I'm not set in stone on injectors, but 100lb/he should handle 1000+ HP on gas. E85 probably won't happen unless they build a station closer lol.
 
I can whip you up a DXF file to have cut if you get me dimensions. Pictured below is my crank wheel setup. I welded a .250" aluminum ring to the back side of my crank pulley, drilled and tapped for a steel trigger. The steel trigger wheel is a .125" mild steel 36-1 that I had cut.
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Here's my setup for the cam sync sensor. It's off a Jeep 4.0, mid-90s I think, with an aluminum adapter.

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I can whip you up a DXF file to have cut if you get me dimensions. Pictured below is my crank wheel setup. I welded a .250" aluminum ring to the back side of my crank pulley, drilled and tapped for a steel trigger. The steel trigger wheel is a .125" mild steel 36-1 that I had cut.
View attachment 1716312321


Here's my setup for the cam sync sensor. It's off a Jeep 4.0, mid-90s I think, with an aluminum adapter.

View attachment 1716312322View attachment 1716312323
Any specific crankshaft sensor you guys using? VR style or Hall effect? I was thinking about running a ford styled VR that way if something happens they should be easily available at a parts store.
 
Any specific crankshaft sensor you guys using? VR style or Hall effect? I was thinking about running a ford styled VR that way if something happens they should be easily available at a parts store.

I'm using a Holley Hall Effect sensor for my crank and a Ford Explorer Hall effect sensor for the cam. 3-wire will be hall effect and I like the square wave they produce.
 
I use the Cherry Hall effect sensor on crankshaft and the factory magnum distro for cam sensor.
 
Here’s another handy option for your trigger wheel I discovered the other day. Sendcutsend has a 36-1 trigger wheel template that can be customized.
SendCutSend

IMG_0387.png
 
Here’s another handy option for your trigger wheel I discovered the other day. Sendcutsend has a 36-1 trigger wheel template that can be customized.
SendCutSend

View attachment 1716317467
Thats A good idea.. I did find a trigger wheel that I think will work. I just have to center it properly. I also started getting parts, found a 5.9 distributor at summit on the clearance shelf for 10 bucks, someone removed the bottom stop, which is an easy fix. Got some fuel filters and fuel line, intank fuel pump setup for my fuel cell with twin 340lph (for now). Bit by bit.
 
More bits. Lots of connectors and wiring showing up. Also thinking about running a blank dash insert and cutting it to fit a NexgenEFI digital dash. Will clean up all my random gauges and make it nicer.

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More wiring, more parts, mocking stuff up. Waiting for a black friday or holiday deal to get the intake and fuel rails. Then it's just wiring and little bits.
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Any ideas on how to mount the ls coils?
I see the remote mount brackets, but I don't really have any good places to fit them. Make a bracket and bolt it to my fabricated aluminum valve covers?
What have you guys done?
 
Any ideas on how to mount the ls coils?
I see the remote mount brackets, but I don't really have any good places to fit them. Make a bracket and bolt it to my fabricated aluminum valve covers?
What have you guys done?

I got cheap alu brackets and welded them to my valve covers. I wanted to add an oil fill cap and AN bungs for pcv so I figured while I had them off for welding I’d just weld the brackets on as well.

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Just sent these off to be cut. I made them to bolt to the Magnum valve covers using long spacers but could be adapted to LA easily. Just a simple 1/8” aluminum plate with holes to mount the D585 coils using 1/2” standoffs. Hopefully they fit OK.
 
Just sent these off to be cut. I made them to bolt to the Magnum valve covers using long spacers but could be adapted to LA easily. Just a simple 1/8” aluminum plate with holes to mount the D585 coils using 1/2” standoffs. Hopefully they fit OK.
I was thinking about doing the same thing and using long aluminum tube spacers. But the fabricated valve covers I have are tall and use the Allen head bolts. Might have to buy a cheap set of covers or do what dnasty did and weld mounts on the covers.
 
Mad dart just drilled and tapped the mounts when he had my car for the older style LS coils, I just had to make an adaptor plate for the newer style then blue lock tight the bolts. Top pic old style, bottom new style

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There is fire... it runs.. Like total poo, but it's something to start with. Just want to make sure everything is functional before I re-tuck my wiring. I'll probably swap over to my blue fabricated valve covers too.. Sits lower than the old setup too, but that made my little charge pipe even smaller. Some modification is needed.

Weird little observation. I have the nitrous out 2 running to my meth injection.. I noticed with the computer off and the relay energized, apparently the n/o2 wire grounds in default and runs the meth pump. Kinda weird.

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Check the basics before you tidy up the wiring. Make sure injectors and coils are wired in the correct order with correct outputs. Use the test feature in TunerStudio to confirm. If that looks good, run the tooth logger and make sure your crank and cam sensors look stable. Check timing also and maybe pull the relay on the meth pump until you get that sorted. Good luck!
 
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Check the basics before you tidy up the wiring. Make sure injectors and coils are wired in the correct order with correct outputs. Use the test feature in TunerStudio to confirm. If that looks good, run the tooth logger and make sure your crank and cam sensors look stable. Check timing also and maybe pull the relay on the meth pump until you get that sorted. Good luck!
yeah i've already had to fix some odd miswirings that I don't think I did.. I believe the harness I bought was crossed, but it's fixed. the meth pump only turns on when the ecu is off but the key is on, but functions properly when key and ecu are powered on.. the key doesn't power my ignition or computer. So it's just kinda weird that the computer outputs revert to ground when off. But that's an easy fix, I can run the 12V trigger wire for the relay to the meth pump to the fuse assembly that powers on with the ecu. I also need to wire up the oil pressure transducer.

I've done tooth loggers, everything looks like it's supposed to I guess. It fires, but the tooth #1 angle is super weird, I did what the manual said and put it in the 30degree number that it is (tdc is 3 tooth gaps to the sensor) but it's like 50 degrees retarded. I put it at 0 tooth angle and the timing light shows it at 0 degrees tdc. Changed the angle to 358 and it's advanced about 30ish degrees. So i'm still playing with it, but it does start the best at 358. Gotta figure out the whole IAC setup and idle stuff, but i'll get there eventually.
 
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