Got a new Truck (new to me)

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Sweet score on that truck! I just scored this nice '87 at Mopars In The Park this year. I traded my '78 440 van for it.
Power everything, cruise and AC and it all works! 40,000 miles on it from South Dakota. Stacy loves it so that's a win for me!
I threw my business logo on the doors in a matching antique white vinyl.

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Sweet score on that truck! I just scored this nice '87 at Mopars In The Park this year. I traded my '78 440 van for it.
Power everything, cruise and AC and it all works! 40,000 miles on it from South Dakota. Stacy loves it so that's a win for me!
I threw my business logo on the doors in a matching antique white vinyl.

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That's a sharp truck! It looks new! Holy cow I wish mine looked that good! I love that two tone white and red I may have to paint mine like that. Those wheels look just like mine too!

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Sweet score on that truck! I just scored this nice '87 at Mopars In The Park this year. I traded my '78 440 van for it.
Power everything, cruise and AC and it all works! 40,000 miles on it from South Dakota. Stacy loves it so that's a win for me!
I threw my business logo on the doors in a matching antique white vinyl.

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Nice Deal, that Mopars in the Park has produced some good value mopar vehicles over the years.
 
More Roof Cap to Cab Seam Sealer Work >

Clean out old dried out seam sealer, sand clean.

Self Priming Catalyzed black paint sealer and windshield caulking.

Helps to seal up the poorly fitting factory windshield rubber and gaps. Keeps any water from getting inside the cab.

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Upper Windshield Clean Up

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Will be painting out the windshield sealer with Satin Black to make it look nice and blend in with the windshield rubber, once the windshield sealer cures.


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More Roof Cap to Cab Seam Sealer Work >

Clean out old dried out seam sealer, sand clean.

Self Priming Catalyzed black paint sealer and windshield caulking.

Helps to seal up the poorly fitting factory windshield rubber and gaps. Keeps any water from getting inside the cab.

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Upper Windshield Clean Up

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Will be painting out the windshield sealer with Satin Black to make it look nice and blend in with the windshield rubber, once the windshield sealer cures.


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Not sure if you can still but it, but I used to use "Zink Chromate" on all my seams before priming and painting. Remember, must rust starts from the inside, out. Address that issue first.
 
Working to save the worn/ faded, paint job on this '89.

Cleaning up, touching up, and clearcoating the sun baked hood for starters.

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Wiper Panel too

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Considering the costs of body and paint and paint materials too, figure it's worth a try to bring back the luster with a coat of clear.

Seals the surface to hold back the salt air mist, here in Florida being 1 mile from the ocean.


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Passenger Door and Fender, prep, touch up, and clearcoat.

Hot day, good to keep the work area to a minimum to keep a good handle on flowing out the clearcoat and it not drying up.

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Working my way around, one day at a time.

Sure looking nice, as compared to the sun faded paint that I bought it with.


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Passenger Door and Fender, prep, touch up, and clearcoat.

Hot day, good to keep the work area to a minimum to keep a good handle on flowing out the clearcoat and it not drying up.

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Working my way around, one day at a time.

Sure looking nice, as compared to the sun faded paint that I bought it with.


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Why not take the hardware off the truck before coating. You leave many areas to start pealing.
 
Had to put up a secondary Sun Shield so I can work on the driver's side next.

This Florida Sun is intense at the end of June this time of year.

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Clearcoated > Driver's Fender, Door and Roof Cap today.

A little extra effort and was able to get the roof cap prepared too.

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88° today and 70% humidity. Painted parts, they set up quick.

Now looks like rain moving in, in a few hours.

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Getting things done between the heat and rain.


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Looks like it's doing fine. If you're using the extra slow activator in the clear, it should be fine in that heat. It looks like it is matching up really well, painting it a panel or 2 at a time.
 
Looks like it's doing fine. If you're using the extra slow activator in the clear, it should be fine in that heat. It looks like it is matching up really well, painting it a panel or 2 at a time.

That's a good tip on the high temp activator for the clear.


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Here is another 1989 D100 pickup showing why keeping the paint job and seams sealed is important.

Especially here in Florida with intense sun year round baking the finish and breaking it down.

Mix in the Ocean salt mist in the air, then next thing you know it's too far gone.

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First thing to go is the front edge of the roof cap at the failing drip rail seam.

Ounce of Prevention is worth a Pound of Cure.





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Came in today: Heater Box port access cover.

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Good solution to be able to clean out the heater / vent box. 4" hole saw and good to go.


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1989 Dodge D100

318 with factory 302 closed chamber heads.

904 trans

8 1/4" rear end with tall gear 2.76 open diff.

95,000 miles from Alabama, so the roof top is not rusted off like the Florida Salt Air does.

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Cleanest body I have seen while on the hunt for the next "318" Truck.

The most important first repair to do was to clean out all the old cracked roof drip rail caulking, grind it clean.

Then Prime with high build Primer Surfacer, let dry 1 hour, then reseal the Roof Cap Seam with 3M All-Around-Autobody-Seam-Sealer.

Enjoying cleaning things up. Can hardly wait till the 4 bbl hits the scene.

Here is a little tease of what the Truck is now.

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Complete Truck, not hacked over, original. Just needed an in the tank electric fuel pump. Going to be converting it to a 4 barrel, manual fuel pump so that in the tank pump will not be an issue.

Enjoy.....



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That’s my truck except I have a 4 wd and a stick.

Any chance that has cruise control without a tilt wheel?

If it does, that turn signal switch is unobtainium. You can not get them.
 
That’s my truck except I have a 4 wd and a stick.

Any chance that has cruise control without a tilt wheel?

If it does, that turn signal switch is unobtainium. You can not get them.

That's interesting, you have a W150.

No tilt wheel here on this D100 and no cruise control, but was able to get the replacement turn signal switch. Just have to pull the steering wheel to put it in. (Old one is working for now.)

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That's interesting, you have a W150.

No tilt wheel here on this D100 and no cruise control, but was able to get the replacement turn signal switch. Just have to pull the steering wheel to put it in. (Old one is working for now.)

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lol the turn signal switch for no cruise and no tilt are everywhere. So are the switches for tilt with cruise.

When the old man ordered this truck he ordered it with the stick and cruise control but not with tilt.

That cruise and no tilt switch impossible to find.
 
lol the turn signal switch for no cruise and no tilt are everywhere. So are the switches for tilt with cruise.

When the old man ordered this truck he ordered it with the stick and cruise control but not with tilt.

That cruise and no tilt switch impossible to find.

Maybe @Dartfreak75 can wire one up for you. He is pretty good at thinking into things like this. He just converted his '88 column wiper control switch to an in the dash wiper control switch on his '88 D100.






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Here is another 1989 D100 pickup showing why keeping the paint job and seams sealed is important.

Especially here in Florida with intense sun year round baking the finish and breaking it down.

Mix in the Ocean salt mist in the air, then next thing you know it's too far gone.

View attachment 1716269531

First thing to go is the front edge of the roof cap at the failing drip rail seam.

Ounce of Prevention is worth a Pound of Cure.





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Too far gone? I'd call that just the right amount of patina! Lol
All jokes aside it's crazy to me how cars down sound and far west will bake and surface rust. But here here in the south east they just rot from the inside out! Most of the cars or trucks I've worked on look perfect on the outside but you go to poking on them and the metal is gone and the paint is the only thing holding them together. My 01 dodge is a perfect example. It looked perfect when I bought it and within 3 or four years the bubbles started showing in the paint. 6 months later there was a basketball size hole in my door. Same happened with the cab corners. Just a bubble turned into completely gone in less than a year. They rust from the inside out.
 
Too far gone? I'd call that just the right amount of patina! Lol
All jokes aside it's crazy to me how cars down sound and far west will bake and surface rust. But here here in the south east they just rot from the inside out! Most of the cars or trucks I've worked on look perfect on the outside but you go to poking on them and the metal is gone and the paint is the only thing holding them together. My 01 dodge is a perfect example. It looked perfect when I bought it and within 3 or four years the bubbles started showing in the paint. 6 months later there was a basketball size hole in my door. Same happened with the cab corners. Just a bubble turned into completely gone in less than a year. They rust from the inside out.
Dry air in the West. Damp in the South. Water leaks inside will condensate on the roof rails and start to rust inside out. How do I know this, I just got rid of my 72' Dode van I bought new because of this. I repaired it many times over. The lower half was still perfect.
 
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