Got fuel, spark, comp but no start

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Don't be trynnna start engines with CARB CLEANER

All you need for a "remote starter" is a screwdriver, pliers, or a quarter in your pocket.

Take a REALLY good look at spark quality, which is (back to) WHY I always FIRST check spark AT THE COIL.

Been using carb cleaner as starting fluid for years w/o problems.

I realize anything conducive that can bridge the power/solinoid cables will work. But when your by yourself on the side of a highway, your not gonna crawl under, bump it, crawl out, check the damper over and over. It'd be easier to bump it with the key. Which poses quite a problem, how would I ever know if Im on number one cyl.

Idk spark was nice a blue, not white or yellow.
 
Im not stabing in the dark, I've tried everything thats been suggested. Just stating the facts, sorry if that's arrogant.
 
A duck call in the plug hole works well when finding the compression stroke solo. Even funnier on a blow off valve. But if it was running before hand, in theory you should just be able to pull the dist cap and point the rotor to the radiator.

This thing should be running. Throw that accel coil under the seat and buy another. If you still cant get this **** running, either check cam timing or pay a shop. Thats about all you have left.
 
A duck call in the plug hole works well when finding the compression stroke solo. Even funnier on a blow off valve. But if it was running before hand, in theory you should just be able to pull the dist cap and point the rotor to the radiator.

This thing should be running. Throw that accel coil under the seat and buy another. If you still cant get this **** running, either check cam timing or pay a shop. Thats about all you have left.

Haha I like that idea, now that's improvising lol. Yeah I might just do that, doesn't hurt to have an extra coil for backup. How long did the blaster last? Id hate to pull apart the front of this motor, I high tacked everything :D. I'll turn it into scrap b4 I ever pay anyone to work on it.
 
I advanced the distributor to the point that it kicked back on the starter, backed it off and it didn't start. Quick easy way to rule out timing.

Not always. My boss had the wires set up wrong on a GM HEI on a new 350 we were tinkering with. Had compression all day long, kicked back on the starter with advance, firing order was completely wrong.

Just to be certain of everything in the ignition, just so you know nothing moved from the crank to cam to ignition to spark plug, I would suggest checking the really simple stuff, all the way. It's better to know, than to try and skip steps.

Sometimes it's really simple stuff that we know better than to do, that kicks our asses. It happens to the best.

This is the order I diagnose and move to the next step if it checks out-

-plug gap
-wire order
-compression cycle against rotor (this is a must)
-rotor/ reluctor position against pickup/ dist. body position on engine
-reluctor gap
-voltage at coil feed wires
-coil discharge on key start position at the plugs (all of them)/ bypass at relay
-coil discharge on key run position at the plugs (all of them) can be checked by removing the distributor, grounding the body and rotating the shaft by hand with the key on)
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-Distributor cap phasing against housing (sometimes those tabs bend and caps can crack, allowing the cap to shift)
-fuel (give it known good fuel, by hand if needed for diagnostic)
-air (butterfly operation and hoses for possible vacuum leaks)
-timing against a light
-leak down test
-pushrod check
-lifter check (hydraulic throw/ movement and tappet surfaces)
-leakdown on coolant system for suspected internal leak, killing combustion from blown head gasket, etc.
-grenade
 
you know, I hade a strange situation one time with similar symtoms, but it was plugged exhaust..... don't think that's your problem, but thought I would mention it
 
Well finally figured it out (been super busy), turns out I had fouled plugs, but hears why. I had spark at the header bolt, but when I ground at the plug (in the head), the spark is VERY weak.

Now I just gotta figure out why the plugs aren't making contact. Only thing I can think is when I painted the heads I used 5/8 washers to cover the plug seats and possibly got overspray in the threads(doubtful its enough to impede continuity). I'll figure it out, at least now I know what the problem is. From now on I test spark on both hardware and the plug.

Thanks for helping guys. Again I apologise if I seemed arrogant :thumblef:
 
Turned out to be my dizzy and potentially a bad coil as that too was leaking. Put in a MSD E Curve distributor and HV coil and she runs great :D. I've never been so happy. Thanks again everyone
 
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