Hard Starting After Warmed Up.....Arrrg

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Cruzin

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Hi everyone.
Just getting back into working with my duster for awhile and I "thought" I figured out my "hard starting" after the motor warms up. But to no avail...I am still encompassing the same dang problem.
The motor is stock 318 with ole Eddy SP1 intake, 1406 Eddy Carb, Headers, with the electronic ignition. (1973 Duster - 904 auto).
I have had this problem since I got the car almost 2 years ago. She starts right up when she's cold. After a twenty minute drive, I shut it off. Come out 20 minutes later and the motor spins over ok (old original type starter on her). But she does not want to immediately fire up. She slooooooowwwwly starts to run if I just feather the throttle a bit.Once she's running, she clears out and runs fine.
Well, I have read alot of articles on this and have performed the following and I still got a problem.
1) Installed a 1" Phenolic riser (square bore type-4 holer).
2) Installed a fuel regulator and gage. the fuel pressure is set at 5.7 lbs.
3) Set the timing at 34° total at 2700 rpm's. (initial is about 7°-8°)
4) New plugs (gapped at .035)
Still cannot figure it out.....:(((((((((((

Any help would be appreciated. I must be missing something that's right in front of my face.
Oh.. and no poking the bear Rob (RRR)...LOL
Thanks in advance.
 
Check the reluctor gap in the distributor. Make sure it is .007"/.008" and set with a brass feeler gauge.
 
Hi Karl. I don't have a "Brass" feeler gage. I have the standard "steel" ones. Is that ok to use??
 
Gotcha Bruce, Well I don't have any brass ones. Can I get them at a local parts store??
Thanks for the tip. I wondered when Karl said "brass". I figured there was a reason.
 
Go to local parts store, they should have one. They usually are included in the spark plug feeler gauge set.
 
You can also use plastic like mouthwash bottles certain packaging etc... as feeler gauges. just measure to check thickness.
 
Well... I got micrometers, calipers, and such here at the house. I guess I could measure some plastic I got for giggles.
But ... I will get a Brass set.
That's a start anyway.
 
Well I just checked and it is definately larger than .012 easy by the piece of plastic I used.
I guess i better run up to the auto parts store and get a brass feeler gauge.
If it's supposed to be between .007-.008, it ain't near that.
 
I found some plastic that miced out at .008. I closed the gap to right around .008, and just took her for a spin. I am waiting now for about 15 munutes and I'll go out and see what she does for start up.
 
Take the air cleaner off when the car is hot make sure the carb is not dripping fuel in while the car is off.... I had a Needle and Seat get stuck in the front bowl of my holley and it made the car a pain in the a** to start when hot.
 
Take the air cleaner off when the car is hot make sure the carb is not dripping fuel in while the car is off.... I had a Needle and Seat get stuck in the front bowl of my holley and it made the car a pain in the a** to start when hot.
Click to expand...

I have had the carb apart and it's very clean, floats set properly, and no needle problems that I could tell.
It "did" start to boil fuel a lil while back, hence I put the 1" Phenolic spacer under the carb to keep the heat down. It gets hotter than heck down here and lots of humidty don't help either.
I'll know what she's gonna do in a few.
 
How long of a delay until it starts to fire? I'm running an AFB and when it gets hot it takes anywhere from 2-5 seconds. Even if the fuel isn't technically "boiling" the heat will cause gas vapors to seep out the boosters and fill up the intake making the mixture super rich; when you go to start the car the engine has to crank over a few times to clear out the over-rich mixture and get enough air in to make it "burnable" again.

I've found holding the throttle open a tad when cranking it helps get the air in faster. Don't feather the throttle that's just squirting more fuel in via the acc. pump and making the problem worse.

Modern gas vaporizes much faster than older pre-ethanol 100% gasoline.
 
i understand what your sayin. If I don't touch the throttle, it just spins over and acts like its wanting to start. Technically I don't really "feather" the throttle, rather I ease into it, hoping it will start. Once she starts to run (like she's bogged down), I put the throttle down to clear her out. Just a weird thing......
I have had other people tell me the Eddy's can be like that. Other than the starting issue, the carb appears to work ok.
 
Cruzin said:
i understand what your sayin. If I don't touch the throttle, it just spins over and acts like its wanting to start. Technically I don't really "feather" the throttle, rather I ease into it, hoping it will start. Once she starts to run (like she's bogged down), I put the throttle down to clear her out. Just a weird thing......
I have had other people tell me the Eddy's can be like that. Other than the starting issue, the carb appears to work ok.
Click to expand...

OK yeah that's basically the same as what I was talking about. My car will just crank and crank forever unless I open the throttle a bit. And same as you're saying it will usually sputter a tiny bit once it catches, I let it clear out for a sec then it's good to go. As long as there isn't liquid gas dripping down into the intake as it sits it won't really hurt anything, just annoying lol.
 
Well, after a 30 minute run. I let her sit for about 30 min. I started her up and she was still a lil slow to start (about 3-5 seconds) . She slowly started up and ran fine.
I guess I'll have to live with it for now.
I was hoping she would pop right on the turn of the key, but it may be because it's an older motor and thats the way it is for now.
Any additional input would be appreciated. I am wondering if it's the old original starter itself. But I am not going just throw money at it for something that it may not be.
I could use a new starter anyway. I know this is the original starter that came with the car.
I have a 360 thats in the works by a member here. Once i swap out the teen for the new motor all will be good.
I appreciate the help.
Always glad to learn something.
 
My 66-273 does that with a Edelbrock carb. I don't have a insulator though and it sounds like you do. The 318-2 barrel in my 70 doesn't have that problem and and it has a Pertronix set up in the distributor and it sounds like you have electronic ignition too. Dang, this is going to be a interesting thread because it seems it's one problem or the other. It seems better with non ethanol regular. tmm
 
Fold a piece of printer paper up into a four fold. There's your non magnetic feeler gauge.

Also, initial timing is way low. Should be up around 18-20 with the total limited to 34-36.
 
my Duster won't start warm unless I turn off the electric fuel pump and let it run out of gas.
Then when I fire it up it starts at the flick of the key (after turning the pump back on of course lol).
 
95teetee said:
my Duster won't start warm unless I turn off the electric fuel pump and let it run out of gas.
Then when I fire it up it starts at the flick of the key (after turning the pump back on of course lol).
Click to expand...

Novel idea!
 
RustyRatRod said:
Fold a piece of printer paper up into a four fold. There's your non magnetic feeler gauge.

Also, initial timing is way low. Should be up around 18-20 with the total limited to 34-36.
Click to expand...

But from the OP it sounds like he has a stock cam, isn't that a bit excessive? I do agree he could use more. When he does he needs to modify the advance plate to limit mechanical advance also.
 
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