Headers vs 340 manifolds

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Just to update a bit, I took my 67 Barracuda to the strip a couple of months ago. I went from 13.70s at 98 with stock 340 hi-po manifolds, 2.25 exhaust and 3.23 gears to 13.07 at 106.5 with TTI headers, 2.5 inch exhaust and 3.55 gears. Both times through the mufflers. With a pretty dinky cam (.450/.455 lift).

That's a 3/4 second improvement from headers with a virtually stock 340 (Duster) and a very mild 360 (Barracuda). Not sure why anyone would be skeptical of a half second improvement with headers over exhaust manifolds with a stock or near stock motor.
Eight and a half mph in the quarter is about 75 horsepower. You did NOT get 75 horsepower from a header swap on your car.
Maybe, if going from logs and a single 1 3/4 exhaust on a hi-perf 440 you could get 75 out of headers and good exhaust.
 
On a dead stock 340, most dyno tests have have seen are better than 30hp. This of course is not only a low end report but just a matter of what parts were tested as such header design, tube size, collector length, exhaust pipe sizing and length are all factors along with what ever muffler you use. Most choose the sound of a muffler over what actually makes HP.

To this end, end build choices and the muffler choice, dependent, on how he mufflers actual ability, you could throw away 15 to 100 hp away.

While no one in their right mind outs a stock muffler on a tunnel ram build, I’ve seen idiot choices that are nearly as bad.

Research!
 
I have seen dyno tests of headers, cutouts, and mufflers, where a completely mismatched garbage system was used as a baseline, in order to make the parts they are promoting/selling look as good as possible. GIGO testing.
(Example: EM trying to make cutouts look good. 800hp bbc, that needs 3 1/2 pipes with straight thru mufflers, gets tested with 2 1/2 exhaust and triple pass turbos of questionable quality. OF COURSE, the cutouts look good! Put the right system on it, the cutouts won't do squat!)
 
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I sometimes wonder how people drive. I have been driving cars with headers for fifty years, and haven't "smashed" a header pipe yet!
(And I have cars that have the oil pan hanging below the headers, and I haven't smashed one of those yet either!)
 
I think that this is 100% BS

I would bet that your customers are reacting to sound and such (I'm glad they are happy!).

Then if the car is mainly a street car you have to live with all the issues of a crowded engine compartment, smashed pipes from speed bumps, etc. After years of 5 different brands of header, I scrapped headers on my street cars and went back to well chosen manifolds and a well designed exhaust system. I never looked back...

Lol, this is so typical of the arguments I have with customers when quoting a build, it's all good till we get to the headers and the customer says he's done with headers, leaks, speed bumps, road hazards, etc. lol

I tell them I dont build a big h/p engines to put in cars with stock exhaust, won't do it,
BUT - - I add, - I WILL put those hi-po ex manifolds on (pointing at a set hanging on the wall) if there's any leaks or speed bump issues with the suspension left alone . There has never been an issue on vehicle stance .

That's over a dozen builds ago, manifolds are still hanging on the wall.
These new design headers by TTI and Dougs are a vast improvement over the **** from decades ago

As to closing the exhaust, we ran "caps" that used the 3 bolts and a plate to close the header, then ran a street exhaust from a tube welded into the inboard side of the collector to the exhaust pipe ahead of the muffler.
Just unbolt the cap, and go racing.

Cheers
 
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I Installed a set of Doug's headers on my 340-.030 over 68 block with 71 J heads with 2.02 intake valves.
I noticed a huge improvement from idle through the entire RPM range, and I am only running a 9/16 ths street cam.

I can tell you that headers were one of the biggest performance improvements I've had made!

I plan on installing a Edelbrock RPM intake to replace my cast iron intake , not sure how much I will get with that change?
Bottom line is headers add power everywhere!!!
 
I plan on installing a Edelbrock RPM intake to replace my cast iron intake , not sure how much I will get with that change?
the stock 340 intake is a really good piece you might see minimal gains with the RPM. the RPM air gap or an LD340 might squeeze a few horsepower more out of there though....
 
As to closing the exhaust, we ran "caps" that used the 3 bolts and a plate to close the header, then ran a street exhaust from a tube welded into the inboard side of the collector to the exhaust pipe ahead of the muffler.
Just unbolt the cap, and go racing.

Cheers
And nowadays you can buy them premade with a remote control operated valve that activates the cutout, how times have changed eh?
https://www.amazon.ca/Energy-Exhaust-Cutout-Electric-Wireless/dp/B01MXLXT0G/?tag=fabo03-20
 
If you were able to increase a stock 340 by 15hp by adding headers, could you feel the additional 15 hp in a 3600lb. car?
 
If you were able to increase a stock 340 by 15hp by adding headers, could you feel the additional 15 hp in a 3600lb. car?
Why wouldn't especially at lower rpms where the hp gain percentage is higher eg.. 15 hp @ 3000 rpm vs 5000 rpm.
 
If you were able to increase a stock 340 by 15hp by adding headers, could you feel the additional 15 hp in a 3600lb. car?
Or look at it this way hp is 57% of torque at 3000 rpm so 10-15+ hp at 3000 rpm is 18-26+ lbs-ft at 3000 rpm, is 20+ lbs-ft down low worth it ? It's basically like adding 20 cid.
 
On a dead stock 340, most dyno tests have have seen are better than 30hp. Tno testhis of course is not only a low end report but just a matter of what parts were tested as such header design, tube size, collector length, exhaust pipe sizing and length are all factors along with what ever muffler you use. Most choose the sound of a muffler over what actually makes HP.

To this end, end build choices and the muffler choice, dependent, on how he mufflers actual ability, you could throw away 15 to 100 hp away.

While no one in their right mind outs a stock muffler on a tunnel ram build, I’ve seen idiot choices that are nearly as bad.

Research!
Ive seen plenty of STOCK 340 dyno test without mufflers it was never more then 20
Stock builds thru manifolds make 340 hp downhill with the wind.
You are not getting 370 hp bolting headers on that top of the line build with a stock cam.
 
Here a manifold & header shootout on a 300 hp 5.9l Magnum crate engine.

https://www.motortrend.com/articles/mopp-0307-installing-exhaust-headers-into-300hp-crate-engine/
Legend318:Stock '69 A-Body exhaust manifolds with 24-inch extensions360:Stock '77 360 iron log-style exhaust manifolds with 24-inch extensions340:Stock '70 340hp exhaust manifolds with 24-inch extensionsSHT:Hedman 151/48-inch-tube shorty headers with 24-inch extensions 1 58: Hooker Competition 1 58-inch ceramic-coated header tti: Tube Technologies Inc. 1 58x1 34-inch chrome step header 1 34: Hooker Super Competition 1 34-inch header; bare, uncoated
Horsepower
RPM318360340SHT1 58tti1 34
2500186185187189187189187
3000223223225226228228226
3500269271272276280281279
4000299301306307314318312
4500311313315321319326321
4600311314315320317327319
5000303304308315312316311
5400281291289295282296289


Dyno Results
Westech Engine Dyno Superflow 901
Torque
RPM318360340SHT1 58tti1 34
2500391.3389.5392.0396.1392.9397.4392.3
3000389.0390.1394.3396.5398.4399.5395.8
3500403.0407.1408.3414.5420.5421.1418.3
3700400.2404.7409.1413.7423.9425.5420.7
4000392.7395.5401.2403.4411.9417.4409.9
4500362.6365.8367.1374.1372.7380.9374.3
5000318.4319.5323.7330.7328.1331.6326.3
5400273.2283.5281.4286.6273287.6281.3
 
Headers had decent gains on this mild 360 @ 5:35 ish (time)



Not so much on this magnum

 
340 with basic mods

https://www.motortrend.com/articles/mopp-0102-1970-340-high-performance-mill-dyno/
Phase 1:Stock 340 baseline, Chrysler electronic ignitionPhase 2:Replace small production AVS with Edelbrock 800 CFM carbPhase 3:Replace factory HP manifolds with Hooker 151/48-inch headersPhase 4:Replace factory iron 340 HP intake with Edelbrock Performer RPM Air GapPhase 5:Replace SSI springs and retainers with Engle #604LS retainers and #993 springsPhase 6:Replace stock 340 HP cam with Comp Xtreme Energy 268

Dyno Results
Westech Performance Group
Superflow Dyno
Horsepower
RPMPhase 1Phase 2Phase 3Phase 4Phase 5Phase 6
3000185.2195.5199.6206.4206.2214.7
3200195.4206.1213.9220.7220.8229.3
3400208.9224.6233.0240.6240.5251.5
3600224.8238.7252.7260.8259.9275.7
3800236.4253.7266.6277.0276.9298.1
4000249.5267.6280.0291.8291.8311.7
4200259.3278.9292.9306.0306.2327.1
4400265.0287.1304.3321.3321.3344.6
4600268.8297.2313.3335.2334.7355.9
4800274.7306.8321.1343.1342.5366.7
5000278.5312.7329.1352.6350.4377.0
5100280.2316.9330.6354.5352.4381.3
5200281.3316.9330.8353.6353.6384.3
5400273.7314.9329.3350.8355.4386.1
5500273.5313.9330.4350.7355.9387.4
5600269.3314.5330.2350.9353.5389.4
5700312.7329.3348.6353.3391.6
5800308.8326.2347.6351.4387.2
6000329.2353.4383.7
6200314.8373.7
Torque
RPMPhase 1Phase 2Phase 3Phase 4Phase 5Phase 6
3000324.2342.3349.5361.4361.0375.8
3200320.7338.3351.1362.3362.3376.4
3400322.7347.0359.9371.6371.5388.4
3600328.0348.2368.7380.4379.1402.2
3800326.8350.7368.4382.9382.7412.0
4000327.6351.3367.6383.1383.1409.3
4200324.3348.8366.3382.7382.9409.0
4400316.4342.7363.2383.5383.6411.4
4600306.9339.3357.7382.7382.1406.3
4800300.6335.7351.4375.4374.8401.3
5000292.6328.5345.7370.4368.1396.0
5200284.1320.1334.1357.2357.1388.1
5400266.2306.3320.3341.2345.6375.5
5600252.6295.0309.7329.1331.7365.2
5800279.6295.4314.8318.2350.6
6000288.1309.3335.8
6200266.7316.6
 
Ive seen plenty of STOCK 340 dyno test without mufflers it was never more then 20.
Stingy dyno? IDK, also, IDGAF. Actually, you’re the only guy to say this. Dispite dyno testing results local and national & published.

By the way, after your header install on the stock 340 you dyno’d, did you twist up the timing and re-jet the carb? Stock carb? Which carb was used?
Stock builds thru manifolds make 340 hp downhill with the wind.
I didn’t follow this sentence.
You are not getting 370 hp bolting headers on that top of the line build with a stock cam.
That for **** sure! But then again, I have wondered what would happen with enhancing the insides, non stroker, in a build no one would actually do. Like a 13-1, methanol fueled, etc…
 
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Stingy dyno? IDK, also, IDGAF. Actually, you’re the only guy to say this. Dispite dyno testing results local and national & published.

By the way, after your header install on the stock 340 you dyno’d, did you twist up the timing and re-jet the carb? Stock carb? Which carb was used?

I didn’t follow this sentence.

That for **** sure! But then again, I have wondered what would happen with enhancing the insides, non stroker, in a build no one would actually do. Like a 13-1, methanol fueled, etc…
post 190 ^ stock 340 phase 2 800 cfm carb 308.8 hp @ 5800 phase 3 hooker headers 326.2 hp @5800 = 17.4 hp
Iam the only guy?
Not going to dig out the other 2 dyno rip vids that show the same results.
STOCK 340s gain 20 tops
Stock Blue Printed 340s with a good carb and hp 68 to 70 manifolds make 1 hp per cube on there best day they dont jump to 370 hp just from headers with the stock cam.
All due respect mr rumble
idgaf either
 
Always go with headers we use to throw the stock manifolds right in the trash along with thermo-bogs!!!
 
Reading this again since I posted this question 2 years ago

Completely stock 340. 4 speed car 3:23 gears non sure grip

Thinking about long tube headers vs stock 340 manifolds.

Car will be tuned if header installation moves forward.

Realistically, how much gain can I expect?

No other modifications planned.

Asking all the Mopar experts on here.
I'm no expert.
The stock cam is 268/276/114, and boasts a paltry 44* overlap.
This is not a performance cam.
The Chrysler 292/292/108 performance cam boasts 76* overlap
This is a performance cam.
Chrysler also offered a 292/292/114 cam with just 64* overlap.

You need to examine ALL the events to understand the big picture.
Here is a quick comparison of the 292 to the 268, in a 10/1 340 at 500ft elevation, assuming headers, except as noted.
The numbers are intake/compression/power/exhaust/Ica/DCR/predicted cylinder pressure/ and VP
292/110/102/292/76/ Ica of 70/150psi/7.60112VP this is the 108 LSA cam
292/106/ 94/292/64/ Ica of 74/143psi/7.33/103VP this is the 114 LSA cam
268/116/104/276/64/Ica of 64/160psi/7.98/127VP

Notice that the 340 cam has the earliest Ica, the highest pressure, the highest DCR, and the highest VP. Hands down it will be the strongest street cam.
But notice also, that the overlap is a very modest 44*. This leaves the headers very little to work with. AND, the factory logs kill what little scavenging could occur. Thus, when the power peaks, it has a long flat broad subdued peak.

But notice the 292/108 cam has a big 76* of overlap, but also notice that it is 10psi down on pressure. Thus, this cam will lose power throughout the rpm band to the pressure drop, but gain peak power, as the overlap cycle gains momentum.
Next up is the 292/114 cam. Notice the pressure has now dropped 17psi, and the overlap is now 64*. This cam will loose even more throughout the rpm band to the pressure loss, but gain some of it back to overlap.

Headers are still almost always better throughout the rpm band, but .Log manifolds kill the overlap cycle.

So the take away here is, that the pressure needs to be restored.
And you can see that in the V/P numbers, which keeps pace with the DCR numbers.

The conclusion I come to is that the 340 cam, altho short on overlap, was still a good street cam with log manifolds, but only made modest power with headers , due to the modest overlap. If it would have had more overlap then it would have had an earlier Ica, which would have made More Pressure, which would have made more power thru-out the rpm band, with a greater power peak with the additional overlap.

That it made 275 or more hp, with the factory tune, has got to be a testament to the Chrysler engineers.
Having said that, every guy I knew in hi-school who bought a 340 car, couldn't get headers on fast enough, ........ but my stock 340 car still wasted them from zero to 60, and easily up to 85mph. How did I do it? Well think about it. These were 3.23/3.55 cars, that never hit the powerpeak to until 70 mph or more, and with that 44 measly degrees of overlap, they weren't making much more power than I was, if any....... lol.
But as soon as they ditched the factory cam, for one on a 108/110, I was toast.
To catch up, I swapped out my 3.55s for 4.10s , and installed slapper bars, and the widest/tallest , tires that fit in the 70-Swinger tubs. This put me ahead again, until they figured out what I had done.

The point is this, as already said;
Every combo is different, and if you want headers for power, you are gonna need a "power" cam; but perhaps just as importantly, is if you want power at lower rpms, where like 90% of your driving will be, then you gotta keep the pressure up.
I always say;
pressure makes heat, and heat makes torque, which at rpm, makes power.
Would I install headers on a stock-cammed 340, for street?
notta chance for $900. I'd swap out that cam first, then immediately install headers.
But if my pressure tanked during the swap, or was just low to begin with, I'd fix that first.

Now; if you look at the PowerStrokes of these cams, you will see them vary between a low of 94 and a high of 104 degrees. Which means that the exhaust valves are opening very early, which works well at high rpm; BUT at typical street rpms, this means a lot of energy is STILL in the chamber when the valve opens, which is energy that could have been used to propel the vehicle, which then speaks to poor fuel economy.

During overlap, at more modest rpms; as the exhaust cycle is ending, the low-pressure in the tuned headers, "PULLs" on the intake plenum, to get the air-fuel charge moving into the chamber; aaand if the headers are tight, and sized right, there is lots of time for that tuned pipe, to yank that plenum charge right across the piston and out the port it goes, unburned.
This too speaks to poor fuel economy. However, this can be mitigated by cruising at a high enough rpm where there is no longer time for this to occur; whereas you can't do anything about the early opening exhaust valves.
Now look at the overlap periods of these cams, and see that at 44 degrees, the stock cam has the shortest period and by this reasoning, of these three examples, it should return the best fuel economy at the lowest rpm

But as most of us who have ever had a 340 car can attest to, they were hard on gas anyway. and that points back to the short powerstroke. So even if you put logs on the 340 car and kill the overlap cycle, that short powestroke of just 104*, is still making itself known.

Now if it was possible to regrind that 340 cam on a 107LSA, the new numbers would be
268/120/114/276/58/Ica of 60/167psi/Dcr of 8.22/136VP
Notice that the Powerstroke is now 114*, and Overlap is up to middle of the road, 58*; Nice cam for headers! if you keep the cruise rpm up. Too low and it would again be a gas-hog.
Put log-manifolds on it to kill the overlap, gear it down, and watch the fuel-economy soar!
 
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post 190 ^
For me. Post count jumps from 187 to 191
stock 340 phase 2 800 cfm carb 308.8 hp @ 5800 phase 3 hooker headers 326.2 hp @5800 = 17.4 hp
Iam the only guy?
Not going to dig out the other 2 dyno rip vids that show the same results.
STOCK 340s gain 20 tops

A 1-5/8 header I am going to assume.

Yea yea, 100%, don’t dig. Not worth the time.

Stock Blue Printed 340s with a good carb and hp 68 to 70 manifolds make 1 hp per cube on there best day they dont jump to 370 hp just from headers with the stock cam.
Sorry, did I say it’ll jump to 370 hp?
Because you keep saying this. As if I said it.
OEM rated it at 275. You just told me above it dyno’d 326.2 hp.

Lets drop the .2 and do some math;

326 - Your dyno run
- 275 - OEM published power
= 52 hp - with a new carb and headers.

The old rule of thumb was said to be 20-25 hp. Just headers.
New carbs were always worth more. I never heard the old timers say “XX” HP gain. Just runs better.
Same with camshafts.

All due respect mr rumble
idgaf either
Ditto, With respect right on back.
 
Who do you have in ignore? :poke: :rofl:
A couple of major Assholes that think they know something and often preach poor advice even after being corrected by myself and other OUTSTANDING and KNOWLEDGEABLE members of note and worth that I’d trust over myself and have asked for and received help from because there mental riffle scopes are better than mine are and probably ever will be.

If you don’t know the actual answer and seek help, you go to one who actually know what the heck they’re talking about. But some morons just talk a metric ton of crap and make the hobby worse and worse.

They fail to heed advice or actually care about the general members of the forum and don’t give a rats *** to actually help but just repeat bad info.

This is sad because some poor unknowing sap may have taken this fools advice and found ether a **** running car or worse, a slower running car as well as throwing good things out the window and spending those hard earned money on going slower with that advice.

It’s a shame they can’t be banned from posting bad advice.
Let them read! Just not reply.

Maybe one day, with prayer and a pocket full of hope, these people may actually build an engine one day so they know what it is they are preaching is wrong.

I have morons actually quoting these simpletons I’ve blocked as LAW on how **** works.

For crap sakes! Someone tell me how advancing a cam 10*’s is the right thing to do?!?! Instead of ordering the right freaking cam in the first place!

I can’t play policeman!
 
For me. Post count jumps from 187 to 191


A 1-5/8 header I am going to assume.

Yea yea, 100%, don’t dig. Not worth the time.


Sorry, did I say it’ll jump to 370 hp?
Because you keep saying this. As if I said it.
OEM rated it at 275. You just told me above it dyno’d 326.2 hp.

Lets drop the .2 and do some math;

326 - Your dyno run
- 275 - OEM published power
= 52 hp - with a new carb and headers.

The old rule of thumb was said to be 20-25 hp. Just headers.
New carbs were always worth more. I never heard the old timers say “XX” HP gain. Just runs better.
Same with camshafts.


Ditto, With respect right on back.
For me. Post count jumps from 187 to 191


A 1-5/8 header I am going to assume.

Yea yea, 100%, don’t dig. Not worth the time.


Sorry, did I say it’ll jump to 370 hp?
Because you keep saying this. As if I said it.
OEM rated it at 275. You just told me above it dyno’d 326.2 hp.

Lets drop the .2 and do some math;

326 - Your dyno run
- 275 - OEM published power
= 52 hp - with a new carb and headers.

The old rule of thumb was said to be 20-25 hp. Just headers.
New carbs were always worth more. I never heard the old timers say “XX” HP gain. Just runs better.
Same with camshafts.


Ditto, With respect right on back.
340s are rated 324 nhra stock
You know better then using 275 thats a bs rating even dantheman knows that.
The dyno pull is right in front of you its 17 hp on a stock motor
35 40 on a built motor 70 on a stroker its all been tested
lmao @ 275 stock 326 with headers carb
 
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