I heard that.
I pulled the entire assemblies out and replaced the rollers with thick solid nylon washers and 1/4 inch pan head style bolts with nylon lock nuts in place of the old roller studs.
Of course I had to knock the old studs out and replace them with threaded shank bolts.
Then did the rubbers and whiskers.
Now the bolts and nuts allow WAY more adjustment at the top and bottom of the windows, along with the built in factory adjustments. (It was worth it)
Making sure the door latch and lock rods are covered with something non rattle like rubber tubing helped those a ton. (originally covered by a fiberglass material tube normally gone now)
I just split the tubing with an exacto knife and slipped it over the rods where they go under tabs in the door metal that guide the rods. (heavy grease on the rods there also)
A couple of well placed light springs can help with that also.
Grease the tracks and rollers with a real heavy grease, like HD wheel bearing grease so it doesn't melt and run out the bottom of your doors, (the heavier the quieter) and lube the pivot points of the mechanisms with the heaviest gear oil you can find (140wt is pretty good for those)
The factory rollers can be found at places like ebay for a pretty penny and occasionally on the wall at Autozone and places like that but it takes a fair amount of persistance and patience to find them for $2.99 and a package of three. (each door on a Dart takes 5 if memory serves)
It was a lot of work the way I did it, but even if you use the factory parts the heavy lubes help a ton with rattles.
That, the latch/lock rods, new OEM rollers and the window rubbers will be a big improvement.
