Help with radiator

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You started out saying all you changed was the radiator. Then turns out you changed the water pump. Anything else like say the fancy fuel controls? A lean idle can cause overheating. Are you sure the water pump is for LA engines? Magnum engine water pumps will fit but they rotate the other way (driven by back-side of serpentine belt).
 
I could be wrong but you could have blown a head Gasket. If you can get a stock Radiator try that with out a shroud. Sorry your having all those problems. Very nice looking Engine compartment. CA friend of mine had that problem and found out the shroud was holding heat back and not letting out.
 
terzmo said:
changing the stat will do nothing except delay the water from circulating
If the car was doing the same before the new rad....you either have an internal issue like bad waterpump...head gasket....or both setups were not installed properly.

I use a 6 blade steel fan with clutch,shroud and the fan blades are halt in/out of shroud. A good waterpump and this setup should cool that motor easily. 50/50 water..antifreeze also. I have seen high volume pumps push water too fast thru the rad...but even with a fast pump, the car should be cool running at highway speeds. Most issues are in idle/traffic.

If the car is doing ok down the road...and not in traffic...it is not getting enough air flow thru the rad at traffic speeds.
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That's the problem is diving normal on the roads water temp fine traffic it goes up FAST
 
BillGrissom said:
You started out saying all you changed was the radiator. Then turns out you changed the water pump.
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Bill is probably onto something here. It's possible the pump is moving the water/coolant too fast through the system and not giving it enough time in the rad to cool.

If it didn't overheat before you changed the pump, then that's where I would look. Think common denominator.
 
Bad Sport said:
Bill is probably onto something here. It's possible the pump is moving the water/coolant too fast through the system and not giving it enough time in the rad to cool.

If it didn't overheat before you changed the pump, then that's where I would look. Think common denominator.
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Anyone one have ideas for a polished non high out put water pump I'll start there
 
The info on water pumps is a bit sketchy. Nobody has seen an engineering report from the designers, so we must speculate. Most AC cars had a 6-blade w.p., while non-AC got an 8-blade. Sounds backwards, but in both cases they wanted optimal cooling. The difference was likely because the pulley diameters varied between AC/non-AC. Therefore, more blades is not necessarily better. More flow will always give better cooling, but the pump spinning faster may not always give more flow (cavitation, etc).

I'll throw out another "far outlier". It is possible to install a Magnum timing cover on an LA engine, but that would make the water pump not work well since Magnum covers have vanes to direct the flow, but for the water pump spinning the other way. If you did change the timing cover when you changed the radiator, then "only thing changed" claim is getting weak.
 
I never said I changed the timing cover Bill Grissom...only thing changed was the radiator...the stock one was black...I show the car wanted a nice alum one..so I bought the one from wizard cooling...now I'm having problems...don't know where you got I changed the timing cover..the motor was fresh from MUSCLE MOTORS when I did all this...
 
where does it say I changed water pump...it says I have a high out put water oump...that was put on when we did the motor..where does it say I changed the water pump that my claim is getting weak Mr Grissom

I come here for help and I get clams that I did things that I didn't do by people...the motor was put in with stock radiator..it worked and kept it cool..i wanted a different radiator..so I got a new one..then I now have problems...thats it..just tring to find help here and not being told I did this or that and have a weak claim...
 
I'm guessing bad radiator if the stock radiator kept it cool, and this one doesn't. While at idle, place a couple of dryer sheets on the front of the grille. If they won't stay, air flow is the issue. If the air flow is good, cool the car down, remove the lower radiator hose at the radiator, hand over the outlet, have someone fill the radiator, leave the cap off and remove your hand from the outlet. If the water gurgles out, it's a bad radiator. A strong flow and then it's something else. But that way you take the new radiator out of the equation. Good luck. Cooling issues are never easy.
 
bruceo2011 said:
I'm guessing bad radiator if the stock radiator kept it cool, and this one doesn't. While at idle, place a couple of dryer sheets on the front of the grille. If they won't stay, air flow is the issue. If the air flow is good, cool the car down, remove the lower radiator hose at the radiator, hand over the outlet, have someone fill the radiator, leave the cap off and remove your hand from the outlet. If the water gurgles out, it's a bad radiator. A strong flow and then it's something else. But that way you take the new radiator out of the equation. Good luck. Cooling issues are never easy.
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Thanks for that advice I will try that this weekend thought putting paper or dryer sheets to see if they stay thank you

Wayne
 
Maybe I'm being over simplistic here but if you didn't have a problem before you put the new radiator in, but do now, then it seems to follow that the new radiator isn't functioning as advertised. Possibly the larger tubes are not slowing the coolant down enough to get the temps down.

Whatever the case, I would put the old radiator back in (if available) and verify that all is good (it was before the change) and move on from there. Dennis

Beautiful engine/ bay by the way.
 
DUSTPAN340 said:
..don't know where you got I changed the timing cover..
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I never said that you changed the timing cover, I said "IF you did change the timing cover", which is totally different logic. You can only solve technical problems with logic, emotions make a solution very difficult.
 
hook up an independent gauge to the system .disconnect the one in the car and watch what it does. this will tell you if the gauge is good or not. Does the sender match the gauge your using ?
 
Do you have a point and shoot heat checking gun ? If nt borrow one. Let car idle and check when it is up to temp. When you go to sleep at night take off radiator cap. the system will burp out air. then check it in the morning. bring up to running temp and see what happens. Also do a compression check on all your cyls.
 
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