Hemi Swapping a perfectly good 70 Duster

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I updated my build thread with this information, but I figured I'd put it here as well.

Earlier in this thread I mentioned I failed an O2 sensor. Well, the second one didn't last long either. As it turns out, the bungs I used were only 1/2" tall which put the tip of the sensor into the exhaust flow. This caused the sensor to overheat and fail. I've been wanting the dual sensor gauge so I have some info on both banks. Instead of buying another new sensor and bung, I just ordered the gauge. It comes with both sensors and the correct 1" bungs. This setup is working great. I've been messing with the fuel table and it's running pretty darn good. This thing really turns on above 3500 and cruises like a stock motor down low.

Also for those not following my build thread, I started a podcast to talk to people with autocross/road race cars. It isn't a Mopar specific show so don't get but hurt and boycott me for talking to Ford and Chevy guys.
In episode 5, I discuss my problems that I have outlined here. Episode 6 is a Mopar for the die hards.

Here's a link to the show page. You can listen directly here or through all the most common podcast streaming platforms. Links are provided on the page to those platforms. Talbots Turn Fast Podcast | talbotsturnfastpodcast

o2 gauge.jpg
 
racerjoe said:
I updated my build thread with this information, but I figured I'd put it here as well.

Earlier in this thread I mentioned I failed an O2 sensor. Well, the second one didn't last long either. As it turns out, the bungs I used were only 1/2" tall which put the tip of the sensor into the exhaust flow. This caused the sensor to overheat and fail. I've been wanting the dual sensor gauge so I have some info on both banks. Instead of buying another new sensor and bung, I just ordered the gauge. It comes with both sensors and the correct 1" bungs. This setup is working great. I've been messing with the fuel table and it's running pretty darn good. This thing really turns on above 3500 and cruises like a stock motor down low.

Also for those not following my build thread, I started a podcast to talk to people with autocross/road race cars. It isn't a Mopar specific show so don't get but hurt and boycott me for talking to Ford and Chevy guys.
In episode 5, I discuss my problems that I have outlined here. Episode 6 is a Mopar for the die hards.

Here's a link to the show page. You can listen directly here or through all the most common podcast streaming platforms. Links are provided on the page to those platforms. Talbots Turn Fast Podcast | talbotsturnfastpodcast

View attachment 1716298812
Click to expand...
22.4 is quite lean...
 
racerjoe said:
I updated my build thread with this information, but I figured I'd put it here as well.

Earlier in this thread I mentioned I failed an O2 sensor. Well, the second one didn't last long either. As it turns out, the bungs I used were only 1/2" tall which put the tip of the sensor into the exhaust flow. This caused the sensor to overheat and fail. I've been wanting the dual sensor gauge so I have some info on both banks. Instead of buying another new sensor and bung, I just ordered the gauge. It comes with both sensors and the correct 1" bungs. This setup is working great. I've been messing with the fuel table and it's running pretty darn good. This thing really turns on above 3500 and cruises like a stock motor down low.

Also for those not following my build thread, I started a podcast to talk to people with autocross/road race cars. It isn't a Mopar specific show so don't get but hurt and boycott me for talking to Ford and Chevy guys.
In episode 5, I discuss my problems that I have outlined here. Episode 6 is a Mopar for the die hards.

Here's a link to the show page. You can listen directly here or through all the most common podcast streaming platforms. Links are provided on the page to those platforms. Talbots Turn Fast Podcast | talbotsturnfastpodcast

View attachment 1716298812
Click to expand...
I have that dual innovate wide band in my boat, and one going in my dart, it’s an excellent piece. Have you noticed any heating issues with either of your sensors?
 
TT5.9mag said:
I have that dual innovate wide band in my boat, and one going in my dart, it’s an excellent piece. Have you noticed any heating issues with either of your sensors?
Click to expand...
I installed the new 1" bungs right on the surface of the pipe to get them further out of the exhaust flow, instead of recessing the bung. Innovate says they don't need to be in the flow, so why not keep them protected by being further away. The tip of the sensor is even with the 1" bung, so I guess it's about 1/16"-1/8' off the pipe. It works fine.
 
racerjoe said:
I installed the new 1" bungs right on the surface of the pipe to get them further out of the exhaust flow, instead of recessing the bung. Innovate says they don't need to be in the flow, so why not keep them protected by being further away. The tip of the sensor is even with the 1" bung, so I guess it's about 1/16"-1/8' off the pipe. It works fine.
Click to expand...
I used the bungs supplied by innovate and basically flush mounted them. It seems I always have one of the two O2 sensors that doesn’t heat properly. Cycle the ignition once or twice and all is well.
 
TT5.9mag said:
I used the bungs supplied by innovate and basically flush mounted them. It seems I always have one of the two O2 sensors that doesn’t heat properly. Cycle the ignition once or twice and all is well.
Click to expand...
Oh, pre heat. Sensor connected directly to the gauge "A" always heats up faster. Not by much, maybe a few seconds.
 
For those following along here, I went to autocross this past weekend. This was the first time since I had the power steering problems last time out. I'm happy to report the modifications (corrections) I made worked. It was also the first time successfully around the cones with the hemi. Very different power band than the 408. The car feels much more balanced now. But I changed a few other things so I doubt the engine has anything to do with that. Data log says the holley cast pan is doing a good job controlling oil in the turns too. However, it may be time for the corvette filter/regulator to go. It shows a 25psi fluctuation over the course of a 42 second run. Likely not a problem for a street cruiser, but it may be best to have a nice constant pressure with the throttle transients required for autocross.
 
racerjoe said:
For those following along here, I went to autocross this past weekend. This was the first time since I had the power steering problems last time out. I'm happy to report the modifications (corrections) I made worked. It was also the first time successfully around the cones with the hemi. Very different power band than the 408. The car feels much more balanced now. But I changed a few other things so I doubt the engine has anything to do with that. Data log says the holley cast pan is doing a good job controlling oil in the turns too. However, it may be time for the corvette filter/regulator to go. It shows a 25psi fluctuation over the course of a 42 second run. Likely not a problem for a street cruiser, but it may be best to have a nice constant pressure with the throttle transients required for autocross.
Click to expand...
Do you know what brand filter/regulator you have? I read on another forum that if you don't get OEM or WIX, you'll have fuel pressure/regulation issues.
 
dartslantsix said:
Do you know what brand filter/regulator you have? I read on another forum that if you don't get OEM or WIX, you'll have fuel pressure/regulation issues.
Click to expand...
It’s from Tanks Inc. I don’t recall the brand. I’ve planned on upgrading the fuel system at some point anyway, so not a big deal.
 
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