Hemidenny K member club?

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I've shied away from shorties, thinking there's a big power loss. Just found this chart on a thread here. The power difference is not so much at all, not only between shorties and full tubes, but the gains over manifolds is shockingly small. It may be that the gains are a lot more when you get into the 400 HP range I'm shooting for.

Of course who knows how accurate the article is but the numbers don't really look like they are intended to sell anything in particular.

Link to the article:
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0307_mopar_crate_engine_exhaust/

There's another nice looking set of shorties as well. Stainless - better than coated right? Not sure those would clear the inner fenders.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Exhaust...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d1d533a1&vxp=mtr
 

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[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1bXPNy1Yn4"]Header Theory Dyno Test - YouTube[/ame]

On this 600 hp engine, 50 hp loss going from long to short tube. Leaning to the long tubes.

Also of note, header temp comparison, 200 F with ceramic coated, to about 800 for uncoated. No power difference but huge underhood temp difference. Coated for me.
 
Idaho said:
Header Theory Dyno Test - YouTube

On this 600 hp engine, 50 hp loss going from long to short tube. Leaning to the long tubes.

Also of note, header temp comparison, 200 F with ceramic coated, to about 800 for uncoated. No power difference but huge underhood temp difference. Coated for me.
Click to expand...


I went with the schumaker ones. they don't hang lower than the frame rails.
 
Idaho said:
Header Theory Dyno Test - YouTube

On this 600 hp engine, 50 hp loss going from long to short tube. Leaning to the long tubes.

Also of note, header temp comparison, 200 F with ceramic coated, to about 800 for uncoated. No power difference but huge underhood temp difference. Coated for me.
Click to expand...

You get an A+ for doing your homework.....and thanks for reminding me of the performance value of the coating.....it is not just a pretty face
 
On a dyno, the ceramic coating would not make a power difference because you are not in a tight enclosed space like an engine bay. But, in everyday use, 600* less temperature under the hood equals cooler air, which equals more HP and TQ.
 
It's amazing to me that, in the dyno chart posted above, the
TTi's significantly out produced even both versions of the vaunted
Hookers in horsepower and torque.

This shows that TTi is technologically up to date while the rest may
be relying on older designs.
 
HemiDenny said:
I measured one up a few weeks ago....on the drawing/CAD board.

anyone out there got a K frame out of a car to verify K-frame bolts are EXACTLY 31" center to center wide?

My hold up to everything is the CAD drawings....my CAD guy works a lot of hours on his NEW regular job (GM)....I have a back up for now BUT starting Jan...I am taking CAD classes. No More delay!
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Denny, mine is out. If you need measurements let me know. I'm sure we will be talking here in the near future anyway. Tim
 
Thanks, I think I will come for a visit sometime next week.....just to nose around
 
Proud to be a new member of the HDK club. Incredible piece and a great guy to deal with. Patiently waiting the release of the HDK-4 for the rear.
 
Five7dart said:
Proud to be a new member of the HDK club. Incredible piece and a great guy to deal with. Patiently waiting the release of the HDK-4 for the rear.
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Thanks for the fluff....it was fun dealing with you...we are a lot alike....I think that's good?
 
HemiDenny said:
You get an A+ for doing your homework.....and thanks for reminding me of the performance value of the coating.....it is not just a pretty face
Click to expand...

My strategy is to post some info and hope to get schooled here.

DR HEMI It's amazing to me that, in the dyno chart posted above, the
TTi's significantly out produced even both versions of the vaunted
Hookers in horsepower and torque.This shows that TTi is technologically up to date while the rest may
be relying on older designs.
Click to expand...

Exhibit A. Didn't know the Hookers were the gold standard. So maybe TTI was the sponsor :)

jrlegacy23 On a dyno, the ceramic coating would not make a power difference because you are not in a tight enclosed space like an engine bay. But, in everyday use, 600* less temperature under the hood equals cooler air, which equals more HP and TQ.
Click to expand...

Thinking about wires etc under the hood is enough for me to pay for ceramic.

cody.bourgeois
I went with the schumaker ones. they don't hang lower than the frame rails.
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Those are nice.

I have thoughts of shortening up those van headers. I like the look and there would be minimal power loss. Likely I'll just wind up with Dougs or TTI.
I want the POWER!:burnout:
 
He's right. When I wrote "vaunted Hookers" that was meaning that they
were the best "in the old days". Doug's were really good too.
 
That coming from a bed fluffer :-?
 
It is an extended or longer tie rod end....it keeps the tie rod parallel to the LCA on my package. The heim or rod end does not allow the travel my front end set up can achieve. The automotive tie rod end has multiple advantages, especially for a street car.
 
HemiDenny said:
It is an extended or longer tie rod end....it keeps the tie rod parallel to the LCA on my package. The heim or rod end does not allow the travel my front end set up can achieve. The automotive tie rod end has multiple advantages, especially for a street car.
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thanks for your reply,, im aware of whats its purpose is,but didnt know that type of tie rod exsisted,,,where did you find the extended tie rod,,?? i would like to see if i can find one for my street rod project, im soon going to use a dropped up right on,,much like a dropped spindle set up,,a longer tie rod would be a better deal then heating and bending my steeering arms on my 40 coupe thanks for your time,,,
 

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fstfish66 said:
thanks for your reply,, im aware of whats its purpose is,but didnt know that type of tie rod exsisted,,,where did you find the extended tie rod,,?? i would like to see if i can find one for my street rod project, im soon going to use a dropped up right on,,much like a dropped spindle set up,,a longer tie rod would be a better deal then heating and bending my steeering arms on my 40 coupe thanks for your time,,,
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Fat Man Fabrications.....GEN II tie rod end..... @$46 pr

It is used for a power steering set-up where to increase high speed stability the negative caster is increased to the point that the tie rod is no longer parallel with the LCA. (the explanation of the application is for others......you probably already knew that...just wanted to bust your balls a little)

When I saw it on a buddy's street rod with a Fat Man Fab front end...the light bulb went off......works perfect on my set-up ....hope it does the job for you.

I really miss your car.

Mopar to ya'
Denny
 
HemiDenny said:
Fat Man Fabrications.....GEN II tie rod end..... @$46 pr

It is used for a power steering set-up where to increase high speed stability the negative caster is increased to the point that the tie rod is no longer parallel with the LCA. (the explanation of the application is for others......you probably already knew that...just wanted to bust your balls a little)

When I saw it on a buddy's street rod with a Fat Man Fab front end...the light bulb went off......works perfect on my set-up ....hope it does the job for you.

I really miss your car.

Mopar to ya'
Denny
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thanks for the reply,,and missing my car,,,i do at times,,, im also missing my youth,,lol ok if it is from fat man,,ill assume it wil not fit my steerign arms on my 40 dodge,,,i have a fat man rack set up,and im going to use his dropped up right(spindles) on more modern cars,,he would have set me up with those tie rod ends if they were the same stud size that i need,,to advoid heating and bending the steering arms to make parrell with the lower control arm pivot,,,,,but to ask him,,,ive also considered the roundy round heim joint trick with spacer,,,,thansk again,,,,love your K set up,,
 
Here you go:
Five7dart said:
Well here it sits after LA HDK and the 5.7 HEMI installed for mock up. Wheels are 18s off a 2012 Charger. Front fender clearance is tight with the back spacing of these wheels but the adjustable control arms of the HDK may tighten it up enough to clear. Still have about 3/4" of threads left...
35bc407b-e287-41b3-b2d4-d3bb3cdf4b9a_zps941602f8.jpg
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