Hemidenny K member club?

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the rack bolts could be a smidge shorter....but I would wait until you install it and space it as close as you can to the oil pan (front to back)....maybe 1/4" of clearance. I'm sure you can find someone to make you a nice 1.5" od X 5/8" id aluminum spacer to fit perfectly.
 
I'll add that to the list of corrections along with changing the sway bar end link location.
 
So i have to say the more and more i look at other member builds i see they are using HDK and i must say the input he gives back to his customers on questions and concerns is outstanding.He looks like he is amazing to deal with and i know i said i was pulling the trigger and getting one i just have to wait a bit longer and one will be in the works.Outstanding work Denny.
 
thanks HemiDart

what can I say?.....I have a disease....I just love A-body Mopars,
Lucky for me, most everyone here suffer the same affliction.

Mopar to ya'...and Merry Christmas my friends,
Denny
 
Denny asked me to post these pics he emailed me. He'll have to comment.

du1c_zpse9a953df.jpg

du2c_zps3086f64d.jpg

du3c_zps8e6f85d3.jpg
 
Is that for the steering shaft?
I am wondering where everyone found the cheapest place to get the rod and universals from the stock steering shaft to the mustang II rack.
 
Denny,

Can you post the QA1 Coil over shock part # that I should be running also what spring to go with ....I don't remember if you said #450 or #500.

thanks
Ross
 
Denny asked me to post these pics he emailed me. He'll have to comment.

du1c_zpse9a953df.jpg

du2c_zps3086f64d.jpg

du3c_zps8e6f85d3.jpg

this is actually Hemimarks out of his Hemi Barracuda. I sent Bro John some pics of a stock shaft also....maybe he will post them

when I disassembled the steering shaft assemby, the original builder, had simply machined a flat side on the 3/4"od round shaft and used a saftey wired 3/8" bolt to hold it in place. Thru time, the bolts had created slop / play in the column.

I took the the factory shaft to my fab guy and had him...

1) machine for DD shaft

2) machine a slot for the set screw to eliminate the adapter / universal from slipping off.

for most installs, simply cut the shaft after the pin hole for the rag / vibration joint. you can also shorten up the shaft if it works better for your motor/ exhaust combination. Try to keep the universal as straight as possible with the least amount of angle in it.
I think this is most cost effective and safe way to adapt to your 3/4" round factory shaft
 
this is actually Hemimarks out of his Hemi Barracuda. I sent Bro John some pics of a stock shaft also....maybe he will post them

when I disassembled the steering shaft assemby, the original builder, had simply machined a flat side on the 3/4"od round shaft and used a saftey wired 3/8" bolt to hold it in place. Thru time, the bolts had created slop / play in the column.

I took the the factory shaft to my fab guy and had him...

1) machine for DD shaft

2) machine a slot for the set screw to eliminate the adapter / universal from slipping off.

for most installs, simply cut the shaft after the pin hole for the rag / vibration joint. you can also shorten up the shaft if it works better for your motor/ exhaust combination. Try to keep the universal as straight as possible with the least amount of angle in it.
I think this is most cost effective and safe way to adapt to your 3/4" round factory shaft

That looks a hell of a lot safer!
 
Is that for the steering shaft?
I am wondering where everyone found the cheapest place to get the rod and universals from the stock steering shaft to the mustang II rack.

ooops....just saw this.

I find Summit/Jegs to be the best price / service....anyone else got any supplier cheaper?

sometimes I try e-pay for a better price....but service sucks compared to Summit and Jegs, but I think they have a price match policy
 
Denny, last time we talked I believe you were building a Aluminum version that was thicker and we talked about if it could be used on street etc., how is that coming?
 
No go...the problem being the heat to fab it would likely cause the aluminum to weaken. If I understand correctly , the heat actually changes the make-up of the aluminum. I then looked at 100% chromoly, being as how all the round used now is already chromoly, but it was just not cost effective.
 
Oh shucks, well no worries. This kit is awesome either way, just was trying to save even more weight instead of aluminum heads etc.

With the Ford drop spindles do you have to use Mustang Front Brake kits or rotors now? The reason I ask is I was about to buy the Wilwood front caliper adapters for my calipers and I don't want to purchase them if I can't use them later.
 
go to mustangsteves.com and get a set of old 70'sish hubs, 1996 13in rotors and twin piston calipers. alot cheaper, avalible at any autoparts store. good stoping power.


Oh shucks, well no worries. This kit is awesome either way, just was trying to save even more weight instead of aluminum heads etc.

With the Ford drop spindles do you have to use Mustang Front Brake kits or rotors now? The reason I ask is I was about to buy the Wilwood front caliper adapters for my calipers and I don't want to purchase them if I can't use them later.
 
Pretty awesome thing being done for this mopar croud. Denny you rock...maybe one day I will join this club. Need more $$ first,lol. But for now wil make do with stock stuff.
 
go to mustangsteves.com and get a set of old 70'sish hubs, 1996 13in rotors and twin piston calipers. alot cheaper, avalible at any autoparts store. good stoping power.


I wonder if I can still use my Wilwood Calipers. They are 4 piston and just bought them.
 
I wonder if I can still use my Wilwood Calipers. They are 4 piston and just bought them.

I am sure you can use them.

I would call Wilwood (direct) and purchase the "kit" minus calipers for the mustang/Pinto spindles.

I had to get a "special order" kit for my down under customer.... the sales / phone rep at Wilwood was more than happy to help.....and for no extra $$$$
 
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