Holey mackerel

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Cool! Twin to my car, Ive only ever seen one other one. Mine doesnt have air though and is a "stalled" project LOL.
Following this for sure!
 
i have never done anything close to that sort of rust repair but my way of thinking would be to attack one portion at at time to keep the structure all together and not run into getting it all twisted up or mis -aligned. like a complete floor pan. then the trunk floor then moved to quarter panels and wheel houses. one thing at a time. forgive my ignorance if im off base here. you must know what your doing here to go this far down. id like to hear your plan of attack in detail.
 
younggun2.0 said:
i have never done anything close to that sort of rust repair but my way of thinking would be to attack one portion at at time to keep the structure all together and not run into getting it all twisted up or mis -aligned. like a complete floor pan. then the trunk floor then moved to quarter panels and wheel houses. one thing at a time. forgive my ignorance if im off base here. you must know what your doing here to go this far down. id like to hear your plan of attack in detail.
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forty years of mechanical and thirty years of building bodies and paint. but yes you should usually start from the back end and move forward. reason for this is everything in the back is welded. everthing forward of the quarters can be moved and adjusted because it is all bolt on except for your unibody structure. in which front, center or rear all need to be square,before any sheet metal can be welded and or bolted to it. i use datum guages to make sure there is no sag or sway and a tram guage to measure length and width and cross measure for squareness. the factory made alignment and jig holes just for this to purpose and reference. there are frame books and schematics for every vehicle ever made. so when everything measures to spec, your sheet metal should fit with minor adjusting. in out up down and so on. and of course the era of these cars were built on the premise of give or take an 1/8 of an inch. but if you stick to that thought. by the time you are done front to rear the car could be out by two or three inches. what i am saying is my measurement are on center. not give or take.
 
alright might be a little redundant. but first thing i did this morning was to blow and vacuum any sand that was left in the cracks and crevices. and then i applied the epoxy primer on everything so it will be protected from flashing rust again
 

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Pictures of my 69 A56 car. 340 4 speed. I bought a front clip and had it truck shipped from Missouri. Drilled out a few hundred spot welds and dropped out the rusty front clip from mine. Any black you see is POR 15 and that's my $10 home-made rotisserie. Made good progress then got side-tracked with other cars so it will be a retirement project but I'll never sell it, can't quit now.
I may have 1 or 2 69 cuda quarter skins if you're interested. Since yours is a vert it may not make good sense to get full quarters. Otherwise, put AMD on your speed dial.
 
pictures
 

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KosmicKuda said:
Pictures of my 69 A56 car. 340 4 speed. I bought a front clip and had it truck shipped from Missouri. Drilled out a few hundred spot welds and dropped out the rusty front clip from mine. Any black you see is POR 15 and that's my $10 home-made rotisserie. Made good progress then got side-tracked with other cars so it will be a retirement project but I'll never sell it, can't quit now.
I may have 1 or 2 69 cuda quarter skins if you're interested. Since yours is a vert it may not make good sense to get full quarters. Otherwise, put AMD on your speed dial.
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no bought the AMD fastback quarters and trimming them down at the belt line. they are heavier metal like oem. and wheel opening lips are the right size. plus they will fit in the latch pillar the right way, so no short cutting the quarter before the jamb.
 
Wow, this will be one awesome build. I look up to people who can attempt this type of work and for saving a fantastic car.

I'm going to Love to watching this. Kudos to you.
 
barbee6043 said:
nothing like clean metal! getting all the sand out was fun!????? nice.....
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white clean metal is the way to go.

Keith Mopar said:
Wow, this will be one awesome build. I look up to people who can attempt this type of work and for saving a fantastic car.

I'm going to Love to watching this. Kudos to you.
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thanks Kieth. i'll be doing more than making an attempt. stick around
 
oh, hey " KosmicKuda", i hope you saved your original upper tie bar of the radiator support. weld that back in to your donor clip so your vin # matches the rest of the car.
 
this afternoon, i trimmed out what was left of the front rails and trans cross member. from there i rolled the donor front clip over and with a little prying i stretched it into place. all that was left to do, was to clamp it secure for now until i can get the sheet metal mounted to check the fit. once i am satisfied with that i will weld it .
 

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I don't think I've ever seen a car start from so far gone. Just as a point of interest how much does it weigh before you start rebuilding. Looking forward to an incredible car.
 
I will be following this thread. I always appreciate seeing what a craftsman does:cheers:
C
 
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