How much HP from SBM ProComps? Well... 670HP!

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Yes I think this thread is a perfect example of bull crap. I can't imagine all the Heavy Hitters on this forum not being pissed also. You could see everyone commenting years ago when he put this up there how cool it was and how amazed everybody was when really it was just a bunch of bullcrap. It was even comments of people wishing they could have this combination and wishing they could afford it and all that I mean what a joke.
 
yellow rose said:
That's probably an HONEST 620 HP you have.
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Like I said I honestly don't know. My combo runs better in the 1\8 mile (6.001)
Probably because of the solid lift can but I just like to show guys what can be done on a budget and a big block isn't always needed. Including the R3 block I have around 7500.00 in this engine.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Like I said I honestly don't know. My combo runs better in the 1\8 mile (6.001)
Probably because of the solid lift can but I just like to show guys what can be done on a budget and a big block isn't always needed. Including the R3 block I have around 7500.00 in this engine.
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Now THAT'S an engine that should be bragged about! 6.0 in the 1/8 from a $7,500 small block?!!! I'm a nobody, but I'm still impressed!
 
Sticky!!??
I've been wondering that by the way? What qualifies as a sticky? Is it the way it's presented? Is it who is presenting? I've felt some stuff that was very sticky Worthy and seen some stuff that was kind of obvious that's not needed in a sticky. I don't know just seems like a good time for a left turn at Kmart this is for a bodies only.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Like I said I honestly don't know. My combo runs better in the 1\8 mile (6.001)
Probably because of the solid lift can but I just like to show guys what can be done on a budget and a big block isn't always needed. Including the R3 block I have around 7500.00 in this engine.
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The problem is that the customer is hung up on a number and not on sorting out a particular combo. You thought your project through and then worked it. 90% of the people I know don't even know HOW to test, let alone do correct testing. It's time consuming and expensive. Doesn't matter if it's on th dyno or at the track. It costs big money to do it correctly.
 
yellow rose said:
The problem is that the customer is hung up on a number and not on sorting out a particular combo. You thought your project through and then worked it. 90% of the people I know don't even know HOW to test, let alone do correct testing. It's time consuming and expensive. Doesn't matter if it's on th dyno or at the track. It costs big money to do it correctly.
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I hear you there. this is just my bracket car but during the week I will try upgrades and see how it works out on race day. I see guys every week trying to improve their cars but NEVER bother to take and keep weather info which for me is recorded on every time slip win or lose.
 
pittsburghracer said:
LOL. My small block Duster goes 940's@138 mph (2860 pounds) and I don't think I even have 670 horsepower. But then again all I care about is the ET slip. Maybe after this Winters upgrade I might be there.
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Just to show how skewed the calculators can be I plugged your specs into the Wallace Calculator. Speed and weight got you 579 hp. ET and weight got you 680 hp. Now if the calculator were a accurate measure, both HP numbers should be close to the same. The same engine on 2 different dyno's net different results.
 
toolmanmike said:
Just to show how skewed the calculators can be I plugged your specs into the Wallace Calculator. Speed and weight got you 579 hp. ET and weight got you 680 hp. Now if the calculator were a accurate measure, both HP numbers should be close to the same. The same engine on 2 different dyno's net different results.
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Speed and weight are the primary factors to determine engine output. ET cannot be used with any real accuracy as far as engine power goes. Lots of guys get caught up in the idea that lower ET means higher horsepower, but that isn't a accurate measure, because chassis, tire, converter also effect ET to a large degree
 
toolmanmike said:
Just to show how skewed the calculators can be I plugged your specs into the Wallace Calculator. Speed and weight got you 579 hp. ET and weight got you 680 hp. Now if the calculator were a accurate measure, both HP numbers should be close to the same. The same engine on 2 different dyno's net different results.
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What really messed up the HP numbers on this type of calculator is my gearing. Powerglide (non 3 speed) and a 4.88 rear gear. On my combo with a .650 solid lifter cam it’s Running out of snuff on the top end. Most of the races in my area are now 1/8 mile so even if I upgrade the cam to a .700-.725 lift roller and do some more Port work it will pay little ET dividends.
 
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toolmanmike said:
Just to show how skewed the calculators can be I plugged your specs into the Wallace Calculator. Speed and weight got you 579 hp. ET and weight got you 680 hp. Now if the calculator were a accurate measure, both HP numbers should be close to the same. The same engine on 2 different dyno's net different results.
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I never use ET to calculate HP. ET is hook and MPH is horsepower. Way too many variables in ET to use it for an accurate HP calculation.

When I looked at Pittsburgracers numbers I noticed his ET was really good for his MPH. Now that he posted his gearing and gear box it makes more sense.

For any given MPH there is a minimum ET. The closer the two are, the better it is.

As an example, a car that runs 12.00 at 140 didn't hook but made an *** load of power.

If the car went 12.00 at 90 you know it's down on power and hooked up.
 
yellow rose said:
I never use ET to calculate HP. ET is hook and MPH is horsepower. Way too many variables in ET to use it for an accurate HP calculation.

When I looked at Pittsburgracers numbers I noticed his ET was really good for his MPH. Now that he posted his gearing and gear box it makes more sense.

For any given MPH there is a minimum ET. The closer the two are, the better it is.

As an example, a car that runs 12.00 at 140 didn't hook but made an *** load of power.

If the car went 12.00 at 90 you know it's down on power and hooked up.
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Thanks! You explained that way better than I could have!
 
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