change from manual steering to power. car I am looking at has a 400 BB in it, but the steering leaves a lot to be desired. manual box. I looked around and it seems that power steering gear boxes ain't cheap; then I have to get the pump/reservoir and find a bracket to mount it. supposed to be a new box, but there is a not of play before it "catches". I know it's not rack and pinion, but I didn't remember it being so loose.
how much trouble to....
- Thread starter snakevic
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TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
The conversion is relatively simple. But, I’m guessing it’s manual steering, not because it came that way, but because it has a BB 400 in it. Power steering and big blocks (with headers) don’t play well together.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
General thoughts.
Why are you changing? Too hard to steer? Might be, might be other problems. I was REALLY happy with my manual setup, after getting "everything right" except I'm old and rather crippled/ weakened, and manual steering just might not be "my thing."
If it is HANDLING you can improve things a lot with a manual box, and there are faster ratio setups available here and there
If the car has a manual column shaft, it is too long and will need to be changed. If the car was originally power, and converted using a power column shaft, look for an additional spacer/ adapter along with the factory flex joint
Investigate aftermarket box called "Borgenson" there is a distributor on this board. No idea if it will fit your combo, but they are smaller than a stock Mopar
Stock Mopar power/ manual boxes have two spline sizes and thus two different pitman arms. You'll need to be aware and research that.
If you get involved swapping parts for whatever reason, there are several pieces which must "go together." These are up through 72, and 73/ later. They are, the idler arm, pitman arm, center link, and of course the steering box (splines) must fit that pitman arm
You can use the above "whole setup" in any year 68/ later clear up through 76 IF you group them together. 67 is different......... . This is because 67 has a one year only idler arm mount (with original K member) and so must use the 72/ earlier steering setup.
Why are you changing? Too hard to steer? Might be, might be other problems. I was REALLY happy with my manual setup, after getting "everything right" except I'm old and rather crippled/ weakened, and manual steering just might not be "my thing."
If it is HANDLING you can improve things a lot with a manual box, and there are faster ratio setups available here and there
If the car has a manual column shaft, it is too long and will need to be changed. If the car was originally power, and converted using a power column shaft, look for an additional spacer/ adapter along with the factory flex joint
Investigate aftermarket box called "Borgenson" there is a distributor on this board. No idea if it will fit your combo, but they are smaller than a stock Mopar
Stock Mopar power/ manual boxes have two spline sizes and thus two different pitman arms. You'll need to be aware and research that.
If you get involved swapping parts for whatever reason, there are several pieces which must "go together." These are up through 72, and 73/ later. They are, the idler arm, pitman arm, center link, and of course the steering box (splines) must fit that pitman arm
You can use the above "whole setup" in any year 68/ later clear up through 76 IF you group them together. 67 is different......... . This is because 67 has a one year only idler arm mount (with original K member) and so must use the 72/ earlier steering setup.
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MomsDuster
Well-Known Member
First I would check and double check all the other steering linkage, tie rods, idler arm, etc. Box mounting, coupler, etc. And don’t forget ball joints and all the bushings. May not be the box itself.
This is what I see? Am I looking in the wrong place?
MomsDuster
Well-Known Member
dano
Evil Handy Man
B/RB in an A with PS don't play well together. Does the car have headers or manifolds? Might look to Borgeson Box
I switched from the slow as hell MS to a Stage III power box. But I have a 340 and room is tight with headers.
You need:
PS Box (preferable sent to Firm Feel or Steer and Gear)
Saginaw Pump (easier to find)
Pump brackets
Lines
Column for PS or the shaft to swap out yours as they are shorter (depending on the year Flaming River makes a drop in column the drop in B-Body fits, it just needs the D shaft shortened.)
Coupler, MS and PS are different
correct pullys
I switched from the slow as hell MS to a Stage III power box. But I have a 340 and room is tight with headers.
You need:
PS Box (preferable sent to Firm Feel or Steer and Gear)
Saginaw Pump (easier to find)
Pump brackets
Lines
Column for PS or the shaft to swap out yours as they are shorter (depending on the year Flaming River makes a drop in column the drop in B-Body fits, it just needs the D shaft shortened.)
Coupler, MS and PS are different
correct pullys
Thanks everyone for all the replies and so quickly!!! allegedly, the whole front end and box is new, but when I drove it, the steering is just loose and vague. you turn a corner and unless you physically turn it back, it stays in the turn. the box may need to be adjusted some. I've done that on gm's before with good results. I had built a 67 cutlass for my son and did an LS swap in it with a 4l60e tranny. had to change the box in it, even with power steering to a quick ratio and after adjusting it, was much better. 400 in this car is more or less slightly modded, no headers.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Might just be alignment. Not enough caster I would certainly "do" a complete exam of the front end for loose and worn parts. DO NOT neglect to check whether the BOX IS LOOSE on the K frame, along with any other cracked/ broke/ bent parts.
Checking for looseness is easy but dirty, time consuming, and meticulous. You need a second person. have them turn wheel side to side and look at each part of the steering for play, for "not following" the part next to it. Start at the column, look at it and the coupler. Look at the coupler and shaft into the box. Look for movement of the box. Look for any play, up/ down, side/ side, of the pitman arm out of the box, and for looseness at the stud end of the pitman. Look for movement up/ down of the idler arm, and play in the stud end. Same thing on each rod end.
Get yourself a shop manual and examine the ball joints. you want the lower arms jacked up to support weight and check play in the lower joints in that configuration
Checking for looseness is easy but dirty, time consuming, and meticulous. You need a second person. have them turn wheel side to side and look at each part of the steering for play, for "not following" the part next to it. Start at the column, look at it and the coupler. Look at the coupler and shaft into the box. Look for movement of the box. Look for any play, up/ down, side/ side, of the pitman arm out of the box, and for looseness at the stud end of the pitman. Look for movement up/ down of the idler arm, and play in the stud end. Same thing on each rod end.
Get yourself a shop manual and examine the ball joints. you want the lower arms jacked up to support weight and check play in the lower joints in that configuration
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I think its borgeson who makes a small PS box. Aside from that, not much room for stock box at all.
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