How to adjust roller rockers w/ hydraulic cam. First start up.

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MoparMike1974

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New engine, lifters not pumped and need to adjust rockers for first start up. I have never run adjustable rockers with a hydraulic cam. What is the proper way to adjust them?
Im in the process of finishing my engine test run stand and getting the engine prepped to start.
 
Use the firing order and set the adjusters to zero lash and then go half to three quarters of a turn down. When the lifters are not pumped up take your time. It's hard to feel zero lash unless you do it a lot. You can turn the pushrod with your fingers until you feel a bit of drag and that's your zero.

After you get the engine running and have no leaks or other issues you can go back through and double check them.

It will be easier to fell zero when they are pumped up.
 
I had planned on priming the oil pump and hoping the lifters pump. I guess that will require turning the engine while priming.
 
I had planned on priming the oil pump and hoping the lifters pump. I guess that will require turning the engine while priming.


The lifters will get oil without turning the crank. To get oil to the rockers you'll have to turn the crank. I know it's been posted here where to turn the crank but I always forget so I just turn it a bit until I get oil.
 
I like the Mopar Performance valve adjustment decal. Simple and effective.
 
Just have a buddy turn the drill and you turn the crank. Oil will pop up. On the cam journals, there are holes drilled for oil to travel or in some cases, a full grove is in the cam journal. That’s oil all the time. The holes ate spaced out in thirds. 12, 4, & 8 O’clock positions. IIRC, that’s every 120*’s apart. On the crank, it’s every 60*’s. *I think that’s correct.*
 
You can't adjust pre-load on hydraulic lifters with them "pumped up". You have to adjust them dry or after they have bled down.
Following the firing order will not work. Follow the Mopar sequence:
312P4452989.jpg


Per Comp Cams:
Instructions:
1. Lifter Preparation: Remove your new COMP Cams® lifters from the packaging, and clean the lifters thoroughly in mineral spirits or an equivalent solvent. Remember, in order to protect your camshaft warranty new COMP Cams® lifters must be installed on flat tappet cams. It is not necessary to “pre-pump” hydraulic lifters full of engine oil prior to installation and valve adjustment. It is actually undesirable to do so as the “pumped up” lifters will cause the valves to open during the adjustment process, rather than positioning the lifter plunger in its operating position as it is supposed to do. “Pre-soaking” hydraulic lifters in a bath of engine oil is a good idea but not mandatory. Doing so ensures that the lifters are adequately lubricated on their outer surfaces prior to installation. It may also result in a quieter engine start up as the oil in the bath may displace some air from the lifter’s plunger reservoir. Coat the bottoms of all flat tappet lifters with COMP Cams® Cam and Lifter Installation Lube (Part #103) supplied with flat tappet cams. When you install the lifters, make sure they fit well. Flat tappet lifters should rotate freely in the lifter bores. Any excess clearance or tight lifters can cause damage to the camshaft, leading to engine failure. Note: Contact your engine builder or block manufacturer for your specific clearances.
2. Setup: With your cam installed, simply place the prepped lifters into the lifter bores. If you are using hydraulic rollers with a link bar, pay close attention to which direction the link bar faces. The link bars on retro-fit lifters should face towards the valley of the block. If the link bar has an arrow on it, make sure the arrow is pointing upwards (↑). If your engine block was originally equipped with hydraulic rollers make sure the lifter roller wheel is positioned to roll along the camshaft lobe. Failure to do so will result in camshaft damage and improper oiling. Now that the lifters are in place, you can begin to install the pushrods and rocker arms.
3. Pushrod and rocker arms: Clean all pushrods thoroughly because most engines oil through the center of them. If the original pushrods are being used, be especially sure they come clean inside and out. Apply a small amount of COMP Cams® Engine Assembly Lube (Part #102) or an equivalent lube on each end of the pushrods, and install them into the engine. Clean all rocker arms thoroughly. If the original rocker arms are used, examine each one for excessive wear and replace any that are questionable. Apply a small amount of lube on all contact areas of the rocker arm. With a clean rag or towel, wipe the tips of the valves clean and apply lube to them where the rocker arms will come in contact with them. Also be sure to check the valve stem tips for excessive wear. Next, install the rocker arms. Do not tighten the adjusting nuts down before the proper sequence is performed. On engines with shaft mounted adjustable rocker arms, back off all adjusters completely before installing the assembly. Make sure the pushrod is in the lifter and the rocker arm seat when making valve adjustments.
4. Adjusting pre-load: Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation. Start with cylinder number one (1). When the exhaust valve begins to move, adjust the intake valve to the correct pre-load. To reach zero, take the pushrod between your finger tips and move it up and down while you tighten down the rocker arm. Once you feel no more vertical slack, you are at zero pre-load. Make sure the pushrod is in the lifter and the rocker arm seat when making valve adjustments. As stated before the recommended setting is zero to 1/8 of a turn. Now, you can move on to the exhaust valve on the same cylinder. Next, rotate the engine over again until the intake valve reaches maximum lift and is almost all the way back down. Then set the exhaust valve using the same method as the intake (zero to 1/8 of a turn). Continue adjusting the valves on each cylinder in this manner until all valves are adjusted
 
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I set hyd lifter lash with the intake off, lifters dry, you can see what's going on that way be visually certain of the base circle.

Once fired up and lifters get fed oil, you can ,if even necessary, pre load them more if any make noise while it's running.

No one needs to be soaking lifters in oil or pumping them up before break in. Don't let the noise scare you. Lol
 
You can successfully adjust them pumped up or not: I prefer to do it not pumped up so I can see each lifter's piston compress, but have done it after being pumped up too.
The point is to put the lifters on the base circle of the cam lobe, find zero lash and then turn the adjuster for the desired compression of the piston.

OP, check the thread pitch on your adjusters, divide that number into 1 and you'll get .050" per turn for a 20 TPI. adjuster or .041" per turn for a 24 TPI adjuster. Use that to figure out how much to turn the adjusters from zero lash. For example. a .030" desired preload with a 24 TPI adjuster would mean 3/4 turn on the adjuster from 0 lash.
 
You can't adjust pre-load on hydraulic lifters with them "pumped up". You have to adjust them dry or after they have bled down.
Following the firing order will not work. Follow the Mopar sequence: View attachment 1715099963

Per Comp Cams:
Instructions:
1. Lifter Preparation: Remove your new COMP Cams® lifters from the packaging, and clean the lifters thoroughly in mineral spirits or an equivalent solvent. Remember, in order to protect your camshaft warranty new COMP Cams® lifters must be installed on flat tappet cams. It is not necessary to “pre-pump” hydraulic lifters full of engine oil prior to installation and valve adjustment. It is actually undesirable to do so as the “pumped up” lifters will cause the valves to open during the adjustment process, rather than positioning the lifter plunger in its operating position as it is supposed to do. “Pre-soaking” hydraulic lifters in a bath of engine oil is a good idea but not mandatory. Doing so ensures that the lifters are adequately lubricated on their outer surfaces prior to installation. It may also result in a quieter engine start up as the oil in the bath may displace some air from the lifter’s plunger reservoir. Coat the bottoms of all flat tappet lifters with COMP Cams® Cam and Lifter Installation Lube (Part #103) supplied with flat tappet cams. When you install the lifters, make sure they fit well. Flat tappet lifters should rotate freely in the lifter bores. Any excess clearance or tight lifters can cause damage to the camshaft, leading to engine failure. Note: Contact your engine builder or block manufacturer for your specific clearances.
2. Setup: With your cam installed, simply place the prepped lifters into the lifter bores. If you are using hydraulic rollers with a link bar, pay close attention to which direction the link bar faces. The link bars on retro-fit lifters should face towards the valley of the block. If the link bar has an arrow on it, make sure the arrow is pointing upwards (↑). If your engine block was originally equipped with hydraulic rollers make sure the lifter roller wheel is positioned to roll along the camshaft lobe. Failure to do so will result in camshaft damage and improper oiling. Now that the lifters are in place, you can begin to install the pushrods and rocker arms.
3. Pushrod and rocker arms: Clean all pushrods thoroughly because most engines oil through the center of them. If the original pushrods are being used, be especially sure they come clean inside and out. Apply a small amount of COMP Cams® Engine Assembly Lube (Part #102) or an equivalent lube on each end of the pushrods, and install them into the engine. Clean all rocker arms thoroughly. If the original rocker arms are used, examine each one for excessive wear and replace any that are questionable. Apply a small amount of lube on all contact areas of the rocker arm. With a clean rag or towel, wipe the tips of the valves clean and apply lube to them where the rocker arms will come in contact with them. Also be sure to check the valve stem tips for excessive wear. Next, install the rocker arms. Do not tighten the adjusting nuts down before the proper sequence is performed. On engines with shaft mounted adjustable rocker arms, back off all adjusters completely before installing the assembly. Make sure the pushrod is in the lifter and the rocker arm seat when making valve adjustments.
4. Adjusting pre-load: Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation. Start with cylinder number one (1). When the exhaust valve begins to move, adjust the intake valve to the correct pre-load. To reach zero, take the pushrod between your finger tips and move it up and down while you tighten down the rocker arm. Once you feel no more vertical slack, you are at zero pre-load. Make sure the pushrod is in the lifter and the rocker arm seat when making valve adjustments. As stated before the recommended setting is zero to 1/8 of a turn. Now, you can move on to the exhaust valve on the same cylinder. Next, rotate the engine over again until the intake valve reaches maximum lift and is almost all the way back down. Then set the exhaust valve using the same method as the intake (zero to 1/8 of a turn). Continue adjusting the valves on each cylinder in this manner until all valves are adjusted


It's a hydraulic cam. You can set if off the firing order. In reality, they can be set from an 1/8th turn down to a turn and a half and it won't care or make a difference.
 
So do I. I just don't use it for setting hydraulic lifters unless it's for and eighth turn deal. I've used it on solids since 1980.

All I ever go is about 1/8 to 1/2 of a turn anyway. I cannot stand heavy handed hydraulic adjustment.
 
You can't adjust pre-load on hydraulic lifters with them "pumped up". You have to adjust them dry or after they have bled down.

Well sure you can. Simply back off the adjuster and add some clearance, tighten until zero then adjust your preload. You can still adjust all day long with the lifters pumped up. You will just open the valves a hair for a moment or two. They will bleed right back down before you are even finished.
 
Good info, thanks. I think I got it now.
I remember back in high school watching the chevy guys adjust their hydraulic cams while it was running. Back em off till they clank and tighten down a quarter turn.
 
Ok, got my rockers adjusted and properly pre-loaded. I did notice on two rockers there were a couple more threads showing on the adjusters compared to all the rest. I went through the procedure again on those two and the result was the same so I assume its ok.
So today I primed the oil system and did not see any oil at the rockers on either side. Im thinking I need to rotate the crank to line up the oil hole. I was getting 87psi using my hand drill so oil pressure is not a problem. Tomorrow I will try again after bumping the crank a little and see if its just an alignment issue. I would like to see some oil at the rockers before I fire it up for the first time. Any suggestions, or is my theory correct?
 
For an LA engine and shaft rocker system and standard cam bearings, yes. I find I have to move the crank about 10 degrees at a time and run the drill for a bit; eventually you hit the spot. It can take quite few seconds to fill the rocker shafts and see the oil coming out even when you hit the right spots. The left and right sides oil at different crank angles.
 
Ok good. I had already checked the shafts to make sure I put them in right so figured they just needed some rotation. I will do 10° at a time and see what happens. Hopefully I can get to it tomorrow afternoon.
 
I like the Mopar Performance valve adjustment decal. Simple and effective.
I need to adjust my lifters and this info is confusing. I have hydraulic lifters and mild lift cam in my rebuilt 273 with the stock adjustable rocker arms. Do I go by firing order and adjust both intake and exhaust valves - firing - or, use this Mopar chart which is quite different? What is this Mopar chart used for? High performance cams? I need to go ahead and adjust mine. What should I do ??
 
I need to adjust my lifters and this info is confusing. I have hydraulic lifters and mild lift cam in my rebuilt 273 with the stock adjustable rocker arms. Do I go by firing order and adjust both intake and exhaust valves - firing - or, use this Mopar chart which is quite different? What is this Mopar chart used for? High performance cams? I need to go ahead and adjust mine. What should I do ??

If it's hydraulic just go off the firing order. It won't make a lick of difference.
 
I need to adjust my lifters and this info is confusing. I have hydraulic lifters and mild lift cam in my rebuilt 273 with the stock adjustable rocker arms. Do I go by firing order and adjust both intake and exhaust valves - firing - or, use this Mopar chart which is quite different? What is this Mopar chart used for? High performance cams? I need to go ahead and adjust mine. What should I do ??

Either way is fine, but I like the Mopar chart.
 
While we are on the subject, do you guys recommend soaking the lifters in oil to fill them up or may-be squirt oil in the oil holes?
 
While we are on the subject, do you guys recommend soaking the lifters in oil to fill them up or may-be squirt oil in the oil holes?

Neither. Lube the sides up and the faces I lube the internals by priming the engine.
 
I love that chart too...but to someone not used to setting valves with a hydraulic they can use the FO and be fine.
I used FO and compression got worse. I used 1/2 turn for pre-load. On zeroing, I tightened until the pushrod didn't spin.
It bothers me that my # 1 wire is on the back of the distributor. My book diagram shows it in the front. Could my wiring be scrrewed up?. It seemed to be the only way the distributor would go in with the vacuum advance pointing left (passenger side) . For the early v-8 guys, where is your #1 spark plug wire positioned on the distributor?
I am going to use the chart and see what happens. Turning 90* is more precise, but setting #2 when you're on #1? I don't understand, but will try it.
 
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