How to fix sticky lifter.

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Well te oil in there is only 1 month old .. And we didn't get alignment or suspension done because my dad has work and I have school. This is a side project.
 
Well first and foremost you really need to find out what the real problem is FOR SURE. I've gotten lucky and change the oil and sometimes it needs to be changed a couple times like earlier stated to clean out the impurities that stick these lifters. This was something I thought you could do easily or have done cheaply before you start ripping stuff apart. It was likely the bad suspension that did in the last set of tires, Iv'e yet to get an A-body that didn't need front suspension work.
a word of advice : be nice and thankful and people on this forum will bend over backwards to make sure you get all the help you need. Keep an open mind and take it all with a grain of salt. And as far as I go I'll try and help no matter what because I like the cars in some cases more than the people.
 
I would remove it and inspect the lifter. If the lifter is cupped on the bottom you will have to replace the cam and all the lifters. Can you isolate which lifter it is? If you can I have removed and swapped lifters through the valve cover with a strong magnet. Best is to remove the intake manifold. Also check for bent push rods. I have seen one that worked fine but had a couple tweaked pushrods that made a lifter type noise. Also and lastly I have seen on several occasions where a lifter noise was actually something more serious. I had a 273 that was rebuilt and always had a. Slight lifter tap. I adjusted the lifters constantly sometimes it was there some times it was gone. Oil pressure was perfect. Idled at 40 60 to 70 warm and driving down the road. That tap slowly got louder over the next year until a rod came out the side. Was quiet then.
 
74 dart sport said:
Well te oil in there is only 1 month old .. And we didn't get alignment or suspension done because my dad has work and I have school. This is a side project.
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You're in San Bernardino aren't you? PM me and I'll shoot you my phone number and see if I can give you a hand. I've been playing with these things for 50 years.

Russ.
 
Well, the reason why we got new tires is because the car was sitting in someone's back yard for a while before we got it. The tires were cracked. We definitely will get the front end redone. The vibration might also be those big 'ol headers hitting part of the steering system
 
74 dart sport said:
well I just went to go start it up after tightening the bolts on the headers and it worked fine. no ticking noise. Im not sure if it was a header leak, but it didn't make noise that time. Weird
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Here's how to check for leaks and noises. Get a length of hose, fuel hose works fine, long enough to reach the suspect area and to your ear. I will GUARANTEE you that you will find any exhaust leak with that.
 
There's a lifter removal tool out there that will allow you to remove the bad lifter without removing the intake,if it's up front.
Towards the back could be difficult.
 
Forgot with the valve cover removed idle the engine and take a screwdriver and put pressure on the pushrod side of the rockerarm.
Notice if the engine misses,remove screwdriver and allow engine to settle down. You will find one that changes less than the others,that will be your bad lifter.
 
m880 said:
There's a lifter removal tool out there that will allow you to remove the bad lifter without removing the intake,if it's up front.
Towards the back could be difficult.
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I tried using this tool. had to grind the oil drain back hole to get lifter thru. Then the hard part, putting it back! I posted some pics. It does work, sort of.
 
I think we will just leave it for now. There hasnt been a ticking noise since ive posted, but i will look into it again if the noise starts. Its also posible it was stuck because the car didnt run for two weeks (harmonic balancer problem).
 
Well put some tranny fluid in it and run it hard,it can clean it out.
 
The bad lifter is the Exhaust lifter in the number 1 cylinder. The noise is getting worse, definitely going to replace before firing the engine up again! Will there be any harm in replacing the lifter through the valve cover instead through the intake manifold?
 
74 dart sport said:
The bad lifter is the Exhaust lifter in the number 1 cylinder. The noise is getting worse, definitely going to replace before firing the engine up again! Will there be any harm in replacing the lifter through the valve cover instead through the intake manifold?
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If you can fish it out there is no harm. If you get it out and the bottom of the lifter is concave then you need to replace the cam.
 
It should be slightly convex. Close to flat. Placed on a flat surface is should rock slightly. If it is concave then the cam lobe and lifter have failed and it is time to replace the cam with all the lifters. A cam going flat will often make a ticking sound.
 
Here is a good example

450px-Combo_worn_cam_lifter.jpg
 
And a worn but still normal lifter may not be convex anymore. Look for any circular wear patterns that have dug into the surface. If this ticking comes and goes, it is likley to not be a worn lifter/lobe; just a bad or dirty/gummed up check valve in the lifter.
 
Mopar Tim said:
I tried using this tool. had to grind the oil drain back hole to get lifter thru. Then the hard part, putting it back! I posted some pics. It does work, sort of.
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I sat straight up in bed about 2 a.m., and couldn't believe I had read this.. "grinding the drain hole."

You DO realize all the lifters can be removed thru the upper openings in the head, without the need for any grinding.! !. Pull the lifter out the bore and out the opening, install is reverse. Intake removal not nec.

Sometimes a stock length intake bolt needs loosening a coupla turns.. no grinding..

Lifter thru head 001.jpg
 
inertia said:
I sat straight up in bed about 2 a.m., and couldn't believe I had read this.. "grinding the drain hole."

You DO realize all the lifters can be removed thru the upper openings in the head, without the need for any grinding.! !. Pull the lifter out the bore and out the opening, install is reverse. Intake removal not nec.

Sometimes a stock length intake bolt needs loosening a coupla turns.. no grinding..

View attachment 1714939127
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You are correct in theory. I have seen several with excessive casting flash which makes for a very tight if not impossible fit.
 
340dartley said:
You are correct in theory. I have seen several with excessive casting flash which makes for a very tight if not impossible fit.
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you think im a total dumb ***? It WONT fit thru the freakin existing holes!!! I have pics to prove it!
 
004.jpg
inertia said:
I sat straight up in bed about 2 a.m., and couldn't believe I had read this.. "grinding the drain hole."

You DO realize all the lifters can be removed thru the upper openings in the head, without the need for any grinding.! !. Pull the lifter out the bore and out the opening, install is reverse. Intake removal not nec.

Sometimes a stock length intake bolt needs loosening a coupla turns.. no grinding..

View attachment 1714939127
Click to expand...
Well you are WRONG!!!!

004.jpg
 
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