Hughes stroker cam recommendation

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Jeffrey67dart

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Hughes reccomend these hydraulic roller cam for my future build. It wil be a 408. For my 67 dart. All steel, full street car. It will never see a track, just a fun street motor! Edelbrock heads.10.6-1 comp. Airgap intake. Car has a a518 with 3.91.
What is important is, does it work with aftermarket efi(holley sniper). The lsa 110 is maybe pushing it in combination with the duration?! 238 at 0.050.

Im also a little scared that while cruising the rpms are to low for the cam. Cruising 50 or 60 mph. I hope you guys get what i mean...
 

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Hi, i can tell you that i run 243/251 @ .050" in a 408, 110 LSA installed at 106 ICL, absolutely no trouble for the sniper. I´m gonna step up to more duration with less LSA....we´ll see if this one works out ;-).

Also your cruise rpm should be no problem i think. What i suggest is to control the timing via the sniper (Hyperspark distributor preferred over a locked out magnetic trigger, less sensitive signals), then it will run even better. After you have it running you can improve your timing map, this makes a big difference in the lower rpms - at least it was in my combination.

Michael
 
btw, just saw that you´re in NL....i do have a comp XR286HR cam in like new condition available i´d sell for a reasonable price.....less than 3000 km run time, 236/242° @.050", 110 LSA. If interested shoot me a pm!

Michael
 
Hughes reccomend these hydraulic roller cam for my future build. It wil be a 408. For my 67 dart. All steel, full street car. It will never see a track, just a fun street motor! Edelbrock heads.10.6-1 comp. Airgap intake. Car has a a518 with 3.91.
What is important is, does it work with aftermarket efi(holley sniper). The lsa 110 is maybe pushing it in combination with the duration?! 238 at 0.050.

Im also a little scared that while cruising the rpms are to low for the cam. Cruising 50 or 60 mph. I hope you guys get what i mean...
At what RPM is the engine spinning at during that speed.
Auto or manual trans?
Auto? Converter slipage amount?
Gear ratio?
Tire size?

These things should have been asked of you by Hughes engines.
 
Great info! Thanks! How does yours pull when your down on rpms? What gear-ratio do you have?

i ran a 3.73 then with the old cam, but now i run 4.10s. Converter stall around 4800 rpm now....but it drives fine on the street (can see the converter stall in the datalog from a quartermile-run, 8" converter). It´s no problem to cruise on the streets. It´s pulling fine everywhere.
 
It is a automatic. A518. Cruising will be at 60 mph here on interstate. With 26 inch tires i came on 2400 rpm(out of the head, it was a while ago) stall is about 2500.

Gear ratio an automatic i have written it in my first post. Thanks for that link! It looks a lot like my setup. I gonna read it now.

My buddie's at the shop here contacted hughes. They are gonna build the engine for me. But here is so much knowledge about small blocks! I thought lets see what you guys think...
At what RPM is the engine spinning at during that speed.
Auto or manual trans?
Auto? Converter slipage amount?
Gear ratio?
Tire size?

These things should have been asked of you by Hughes engines.
 
I think it'll be OK, not great, but OK.
 
Thanks. This is why i join this forum!
Great info and knowledge!
Well, that would be my choice for the reason of the final drive ratio anding up at? What? Around a 2.70? Even with a 26 inch tire, it may not RPM accordingly. This is what I'd use at the smallest;

SER2630ALN10.jpg


This would be about right for the stall you have, the gear ratio a little high except your going into over drive to really knock down the ratio. Which ends up on the low side. I have a Comp HR @ 224 with 3.55's on a 26 inch tire and a 2600 stall. Good at cruise. Floor it to take off and the trans drops down into second wghere the ratio is just about right for WOT and away I go. It does have long legs with the 3.55's.

AND I MIGHT just not preload the lifter that far ether. I'd probably do .020.
 
I'm running 11.6-1 now on the wife .030, 360. 93 octane. May try less later.

Zero deck 5cc valve relief slugs, .027 X 4.04 head gasket, Trick Flow heads w/1.6 rockers and that Comp Hyd. roller @ 224/230 @.050, .573/.569 lift on a 110.
 
Just for reference, I'm running 251 int./257 exh. (@.050) on a 110 LSA with my BPE 408 stroker. I make around 6" of vac at 930 rpm idle. 4 speed, 3.91 gears, 265/50/15 tires and my FiTech runs great.

The sniper should work as well or better with any cam you choose, so pick one based on what you want it to do. Lots of good suggestions above.
 
It is a automatic. A518. Cruising will be at 60 mph here on interstate. With 26 inch tires i came on 2400 rpm(out of the head, it was a while ago) stall is about 2500.
my math says 60=2093rpm in loc-up with a 26" tire. and 65 =2267.
__________________
My 367 cruises 2240 with a 230*@.050 cam, and fuel economy is atrocious. I attribute that to two things; 1) 2240 is right on the edge of becoming efficient for my combo, and 2) My cam has only 105* of power extraction by the advertised numbers, which leaves a lot of unused energy still in the exhaust when the exhaust valve opens. Energy which could have been used to propel the vehicle.
My previous cam had 5 more degrees of power extraction and 10 fewer degrees of overlap, and it was lightyears ahead in the fuel economy department. And I could cruise it down at 65=1588 where it still made excellent fuel economy. My Scr is right around 10.95, and with the smaller cam, was 10.7.
With your longer stroke, I realize that you can run more cam without driving your Effective stroke as short as mine is, but 238* is really pushing it with a roller cam (mine is a FTH). So if hiway fuel useage is important to you,
I have to agree with Rumble.

With alloy heads you can run a lotta cylinder pressure without running into detonation. Some FABO members have reported a tic over 200 psi still on pump gas. I myself am or have run 177 to 185psi on 87E10, at 205*F Minimum coolant temp, with tight-Q.
Good luck!
 
my math says 60=2093rpm in loc-up with a 26" tire. and 65 =2267.

Thanks for the math AJ. Now that’s theoretical (if not actual) cruise rpm is established, a better cam for the idea of some ability to cruise in can be sought after. 70 MPH would be about 2474 RPM’s? And 70 MPH is about a good speed on the interstate.

Let’s round it up some. 2300 - 2500 cruise RPMs.
The best cruise cam would have a listed starting rpm below the cruise so the cam starts to come into play. With the combo and cam, efficiency’s the goal. If the cam is to big, the engine and car act like a pig in throttle response, mileage and generally the feel of the car as your driving. When you press the gas pedal down without kicking the trans gear down, the car feels lethargic and may even lug and chug until the combo becomes efficient again.

I think the cam size first given to you is really good until you get into overdrive. Otherwise it is an excellent hot rod cam. It’s gonna make some really nice power.
Just not a Hwy. cruiser.
 
Street Performance | Jones Cams
jones has the best roller cam lobes
He grinds wiht a small wheel to get an inverse radius profile
developed by his dad but refined for the indy car program foGM
no one else has this much r&d in design
and a great cam picker
edit
just scrolled up and saw the hughes cam card
I would NOT even consider any cam without the seat timing at say .006 and I want the .200 for comparing power
 
@Jeffrey67dart
Here is some food for thought;
You said [email protected] and 110LSA. I'm gonna take some liberty and call the exhaust 244, and add typically long roller acceleration ramps to come up with advertised numbers of 292/300/110. For this exercise, it doesn't have to be accurate, it is for illustration purposes only.
Ok, so if you map that out, here is what that cam will sortof look like to your engine;
292/300/110+2/ overlap of 76, and Effective=76;
the compression duration is 106* for an Ica of 74*
the power duration is 98* for an ex opening at 82* Atdc.

What does it mean?
Well I know you're interested in fuel mileage, so that's all that I'm gonna talk about in this post.
Lets go look at the Power Extraction. With just 98* of extraction, there will be a huge amount of energy still left in the expanding gasses when the exhaust valve begins to open. Immediately the pressure in the cylinder will drop , so all that energy is going straight down the primary header pipe, as wasted. You paid for that energy at the gas-pump, and now there it is whooshing out your tailpipes.
At the other end of the exhaust cycle is overlap. This cam has around 76* of it. Think about this; your compression duration is 106*. Your extraction is 98* and now,overlap is 76*. This is not a small amount of overlap, it is in fact HUGE. This is 72% of the compression and almost 78% of extraction. This is a cycle just like the other 4.

So what is overlap and how does it affect fuel mileage?
Overlap is the period of time (in degrees) that both the intake valve and the exhaust valve are open. The header works to create a low pressure on the back of the slow-closing exhaust valve, as the piston is coming up to the top of the stroke. As soon as the intake valve opens, the plenum sees that low-pressure, and the atmosphere starts rushing to fill it. So now the piston arrives at TDC, and begins it's downward trek, encouraging the plenum and atmosphere, to keep on filling the ever increasing volume in the cylinder as the piston is moving down. Ok but lets back up to the top. When that intake valve opens, and the plenum sees the low pressure area in the chamber created by the header, guess what, the fuel-air charge rushes in there, in an attempt to equalize the pressure ..... but the exhaust valve is still open! So there is nothing stopping that air-fuel charge, at low rpm, from charging straight across the piston and out into the low-pressure area in the header. Guess what happens to your fuel economy? That's right, the gas you just paid for, is ... whooshing down the pipes.

And finally is the compression cycle; yours is just around 106* advertised. (Ima guessing). That means, that the intake valve is not closing until the piston has travelled 74* after bottom dead center. Try to picture how far up the cylinder that might be. I'll guess over 1/3 of the way up. Your engine cannot start to build cylinder pressure until that stinking intake valve finally closes. So even tho you might have a Compression Ratio of 10.7, That ratio starts with the piston at the bottom, not 74 * after passing the bottom! So, in your case, your Effective Stroke might be down to 2.86 inches, and the actual compression ratio that the engine sees , could be down to 7.94, and we call that Dcr or Dynamic Compression Ratio.. I mean I'm just guessing.
To illustrate the point. This 7.94Dcr represents less cylinder pressure than say 8.0 Dcr. And less pressure translates to less power, especially at Part Throttle, and that translates to less energy being transferred to the crank at a given throttle-opening, and once again, this requires MORE throttle opening to maintain a given roadspeed.
These are the three major penalties to fuel economy from choosing a cam of that size and configuration.
The next penalty will be ignition timing.
Cruising at say 2250 rpm , your engine might want hi 40s to mid 50 degrees of timing advance, to cause the peak energy in the fuel being burned, to arrive at the flywheel in it's maximum potential to do work. Your factory-type distributor can only rarely deliver the right amount of advance, at 2250, and only with a lot of work. So there is the fourth penalty to fuel economy.
Food for thought.

My personal discovery, showed power extraction, favorable to fuel economy, starts at about 110*. As to overlap, 50 degrees is already showing itself to be quite a bit. What I discovered is that for fuel economy, with power, I had to slam the valves shut and whack them open to prevent these three penalties from taking over. And I had to let the engine pick the cruise rpm, not me dictate it. And after that I had to figure out how to supply the required amount of ignition advance.

As to the ramp length from .050 to the advertised;here's the deal; for a given duration @.050 each cam type, has it's own acceleration ramp characteristics. Typically a hydraulic roller might have ramps of 54* from the .050 spec, to the advertized spec. It could be a lot more to a little less but 54* is likely typical.
A solid roller can be a whole bunch faster, And I have heard of one having ~39 degrees; which is really short.
Flat tappets are generally faster; from 44/46 degrees typical for hydros to maybe 38 for solids but I seem to recall seeing 29* one time.
However, the advertised numbers, on hydros are NEVER from .050 to intake valve actually closed and not leaking. That point could be many many more degrees later. Whereas with solids you control that point precisely with adjustment of the valve lash.
And then, after you have chosen the type of cam that best suits your needs, you still have two more choices . Within each type of line, you still have a broad range of acceleration ramp lengths, and they don't always all begin from the same advertized point.

And finally, the LSA plays a large role in the total degrees of compression plus extraction.
In the cam I built at the beginning of this story, namely the assumed to be
238/244/110, which I doctored to look like
292/300/110+2/106/98/76 overlap; compression plus extraction is just 204degrees. You can advance/retard the cam anywhere you want which will trade degrees between compression and extraction, but the total will remain the same. 204 is pretty small for a streeter. More often with a flat tappet hydro, we see 220 to 230 . So right away you can see that the long ramps on your roller, are stealing from compression plus extraction. This cannot easily be compensated for. Nor does it have to be in every case . For instance, for a drag-racer power extraction degrees can be sacrificed because the engine will still make more absolute power at higher rpms, even tho each individual cylinder is less efficient due to the early opening exhaust valve.
But for a streeter that spends most of it's life below say 4000 rpm, IMO, it make no sense to sacrifice that efficiency.
One of the tools for changing the compression plus power( c+p) is by changing the LSA. For each 1 degree change in LSA, there is a 2 degree change in c+p. Therefore reducing the Lsa to 106 from 110, is 4 degrees. And times two will post in increase in c+p of 8 degrees , or from 204 to 212. You can put those new-found degrees to either compression or to power or split it any way you want. If you put it all to power then your power extraction will increase from 98 to 106, but I can tell you flat out that your fuel economy will still suck. For two reasons; 1) changing the Lsa from 110 to 106 is 4* and your overlap will increase by double that so from 76* to 84*,and you already know what overlap does at low rpm. And 2) 106* of power extraction still leaves a lot of energy in the expanding gasses going out the tailpipe.

So where do you draw the line?
IDK, every person has to decide what is most important to him. A bias in any direction always calls for a sacrifice in another.
I gave up the 292/292/110+2/108/104/76 overlap, because the c+p was only 212. It made horrible fuel mileage.
My next cam was a
270/276/110+2/117/110/53 overlap with a c+p of 227. Fantastic mpgs. Why? Three reasons; 1) the overlap lost 23* and 2) the Power extraction gained 6 degrees, and 3) the c+p increased 15*!
When that cam dropped lobes I moved up just one cam size to
276/286/110+2/115/104/61* overlap, with c+p=219. And the mileage dropped into the basement. How could that be? Three reasons; 1)overlap increased 8 degrees and 2) power extraction decreased 6*, and 3) c+p decreased 8*.
As you can see, these numbers sound really small, you know 8*/6* and so on, and I had no clue such small numbers could have such big results. Lemmee tell you; that measly 6* of power extraction cost me hundreds of dollars to compensate for, and I never got the mpgs back. Not even close. But oh-yeah, the top-end rush was worth it! Right? Yano, the rush was closer to the 292/108, but I really missed the inter-provincial traveling. Just 6* of power extraction and 8* of overlap, absolutely killed it. And here I am 14 years later,waiting for that stinking cam to die, so I can finally put a solid lifter cam in it's place,lol.
Food for thought.
 
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Hey AJ, can you reduce that down to a single paragraph?
 
maybe; I'll see what I can do.......
When it comes to fuel economy;with street power;
Long-period,wide-LSA, lumpy idle, hydraulic roller cams are a poor choice.
Fast-ramp,SFT cams are the cams of choice.
If your block is already set up for rollers,
solid rollers can be/ probably are, the best way to go. and
A modest HFT cam can be a reasonable compromise, if the block is not set up for a roller.
The longer your stroke is, the more you can get away with, but, the more cubes you have, the less cam you need in the first place.
end paragraph 1.

The camsize, namely a 223/230/[email protected],that you showed in post 13, I like, and here's why; for an install at 106*;
as an hydraulic roller it might be a 276/282, Ica of 64*
as an HFT it might be a .............. 268/274, Ica of 60*
as a SFT it might be a ................ 262/268, Ica of 57*
as a solid roller, it might be ........ 254/260, Ica of 53*
As a [email protected], these are all gonna make similar absolute power; with the rollers possible making a lil more midrange. And as we all know, a 223* cam is very streetable.
But from the generated advertised numbers, the Ica is gonna be all over the map,so to get the best low-rpm and Part-Throttle performance out of a 223*cam,every engine build has to be biased towards the cam-type being used. For instance,to make each engine generate about 185psi, to all make similar Part Throttle/low-rpm power, the Scr will have to be adjusted from
10.9 for the Ica of 64*, to
10.1 with the Ica of 53*
At WOT, the .050 is still a 223* so they will all make similar WOT-power.
As for fuel economy, the 254/260/ is likely to be head and shoulders above the 276/282. And, in fact, a guy could go up about 3 cam sizes with a solid roller, to contest the poor fuel economy of the hydraulic roller , lessee, hyup I get 275/281 advertised, but now [email protected], and that is a game-changer right there.
end paragraph 2. Sorry;

Ok waitaminit; I just gotta add that the 254/260 solid-roller type cam is gonna accept a lower cruise rpm, than the other longer period cams, and so if you take advantage of that with gearing, you will increase your fuel economy yet again, over and above what the numbers might point to.
 
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Haha wow. It is a long story but very helpful! I need to read it once more over. Technical reading in another language take some time to land sometimes. Yesterday when i was at the shop we both agreed the cam that was recommend by hughes was to big. We thougt stepping a few steps back was a lot better. We thougt we can go with this cam;
SER3034ALN10.jpg
We do order all the stuff at hughes so we get a complete working package. There is not much stuff on the shelfs here in the netherlands.... do you guys think this cam should work better? Does the numbers also look better AJ?
 
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