hydraulic clutch in A body

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Might try bleeding when hot.

How old is the fluid, as-in how old since the seal on the bottle was broken? Could be a good flush will help or cure it.

I use this for bleeding brakes and hyd. clutches. Long tube goes to the bleeder, short tube goes to intake manifold vacuum when doing brakes. I leave it disconnected for clutches.

IMG_0984.jpg
 
forget about all the bullshitting around with slave cylinders mounted on the frame rail and all the rest of the crap associated with it. buy a keisler hydraulic throw out bearing setup and get on with it. the best setup available. set it up once and set it up right. it is a no brainer.
 
Except that if the hydraulic unit fails, you have to pull the transmission to fix it. I thought about it and decided that this would be more "crap" than making a bracket for an external slave cylinder.

"Opinions vary." - Patrick Swayze, "Road House" :)
 
Mine is a McLeod annular T/O. I don't know that I'd have chosen to go this way (PO installed it), but it works well. I'd have likely done something external for ease of R&R, but after 15 odd years of dealing with truck transmissions that have transfer-cases hanging off of them, this T5 is a wonderfully easy trans to pull out. Not a lot of sympathy for any complaining about the effort of a pass car trans R&R. 8 bolts, a speedo drive, the shifter lever and out it comes! Can nearly do the job w/o a floor or trans jack and in my younger/stupider days I probably would have.
 
I would recommend disconnecting the driveshaft too :D

Don't know what a T5 weighs, but an A833 is a handful (140 lbs?). I've balanced many a A833 on the saddle of my floor jack and only had one fall off, luckily away from my hands and fingers!
 
I would recommend disconnecting the driveshaft too :D

Don't know what a T5 weighs, but an A833 is a handful (140 lbs?). I've balanced many a A833 on the saddle of my floor jack and only had one fall off, luckily away from my hands and fingers!
Oops, OK 12 bolts (companion flange on this one). I don't know what it weighs either. I'll guess right around 100 lbs. which is less than 1/2 of what I'm used to.
 
forget about all the bullshitting around with slave cylinders mounted on the frame rail and all the rest of the crap associated with it. buy a keisler hydraulic throw out bearing setup and get on with it. the best setup available. set it up once and set it up right. it is a no brainer.

Thats great advice except for the fact that Keisler went tits up about 5 months ago.
 
Might try bleeding when hot.

How old is the fluid, as-in how old since the seal on the bottle was broken? Could be a good flush will help or cure it.

I use this for bleeding brakes and hyd. clutches. Long tube goes to the bleeder, short tube goes to intake manifold vacuum when doing brakes. I leave it disconnected for clutches.

IMG_0984.jpg

May have to try it hot some day when I bring it home. Pretty sure the fluid was brand new and bought for the project. I may have had just a tad of previously opened new stuff in it at the beginning because I had it laying around, but pretty sure I blew most of that out on intial bleed. It did seem to get dark pretty quick though. Brand new throwout setup and master and in less than 6 months and probably under 1000 miles it's fairly dark. Not like brown syrup, but probably a medium to heavy amber.
 
Thats great advice except for the fact that Keisler went tits up about 5 months ago.
thats too bad. they had an awesome product. have been beating the **** out of my 340 4speed hydraulic setup for 10 years now in my 35 plymouth and have never had a problem with it. anyhow it only takes about 40 minutes to pull a 4 speed out if you had to once its up in the air. thats taking a beer break . lol
 
Except that if the hydraulic unit fails, you have to pull the transmission to fix it. I thought about it and decided that this would be more "crap" than making a bracket for an external slave cylinder.

"Opinions vary." - Patrick Swayze, "Road House" :)
the chances of the hydraulic unit failing is slim to none if it is installed correctly. and pulling a trans is not rocket science nor that time consuming if u know what you are doing. chances are you will be pulling the trans eventually for purposes other than replacing the hydraulic bearing. lol
 
I finally got around to making the hydraulic line for my setup (pull cylinder, stock fork, Centerforce DF clutch and throwout). I'm surprised at how low the pedal effort is, and I'm worried I need to decrease the pedal ratio (or move the fork hole closer to the pivot than the stock hole, or get a bigger bore master). With the Lakewood scattershield there's no way to see how much plate departure I'm actually getting with the clutch pedal fully depressed.

Does anyone know how much travel is required, measured at the original fork actuating rod hole? I think it's 1" but would like to hear from anyone who's actually measured it.
thanks!
 
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