Aren't "lightened 340 rods" just 273 rods? 
Hypothetical 318 Builds
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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I agree. A lot of times, these guys don't realize that one, a 318 may be all someone has and two, as hard as it may be to believe, a 318 just might be what they WANT. Like me bein a slant 6 guy. I have people all the time askin me "why did you build "THAT", it'll never be a V8?" ......and that's exactly WHY I did it. lol They and the 318 bashers will just never get it. It's like I said in other threads, I'm unsure guys that hate on 318s and slant sixes are true Mopar guys. Those are two of the best engines Chrysler ever made.
Yeah and don't forget the 327 that also came in 340, 365 and 375HP versions.
Yes.. but it was a chevy and better in every way...
Yep, I purposely left the heavy hitters out. (thinking more fun street engines here) I bet that 375 horse was a nasty Mo Fo. 2.02 double humpers and a big "full race" solid lifter cam.
Then think about the mild combination Hot Rod put together for their 400 horse 318 build. No comparison how easy 400 horse is to get out of a Teen. Better cam technology now days though.
Don't talk too loud about that. The Lean Burn came out in 76' and was known to be the first computer control for American cars. GM started in 77 with a ESC in the Toronados.
Did they copy how good and dependable the lean burn system was also?
Speaking of low emissions and fuel mileage, another pioneer move for Mopar was the lock up torque converter. Back in 78. (that was a very innovative few years for us)
I didn't know mopar came up with that
Almost every time someone asks me what I have in my Duster, I answer "just a 318." Normal response to that is "nothing wrong with that, one of the best engines ever made". FWIW, I think you running a Slant 6 is cool.
Richard Holdener dyno the the top hp packages of chev's 302 327 and 350 and all made 350-355 hp in dyno trim. A little off from there ratings but shows 350 hp is a good amount power.
350+hp 318 is a fair easy goal, the 80/90's 5.0l mustang only dynos 265 hp you don't need much hp to have fun.
When I was doing tech-school '83-'85, My main car pool local's folks had a '77 Chrysler TANK w/a 400 lean-burn, We rode that thing a number of times to school. Ran perfectly, and got~17-18mpg, no balls..but..Did they copy how good and dependable the lean burn system was also?
I bet if spec'd out a 318 with similar cam cr intake carb, would put near the same power with stock heads, I think 318 would come up a little short with no head mods but add a set of X heads bet it smoke the 327.Yep, I purposely left the heavy hitters out. (thinking more fun street engines here) I bet that 375 horse was a nasty Mo Fo. 2.02 double humpers and a big "full race" solid lifter cam.
So.. i'm curious.. is the oiling as bad in a small block like some people make it seem? I had a lot of friends spin bearings in small blocks when i was a kid.. but prolly stupid driving..
I see the mods like the crossover in the lifter valley and tubing the oil passages and **** and wonder if it's needed...
I see the mods like the crossover in the lifter valley and tubing the oil passages and **** and wonder if it's needed...
It works, like anything else, GIGO....I need to get my old laptop out with the Desktop Dyno program on it.
I have found it to be PDC to My past experiences, all of them, the 1/4 trap speeds and calculated rwhp add up on every one I've retroactively run so far.
Lots of reasons for having no balls but usually because of the rear gear. Think of this, a 2.24 rear gear was available in the 8 1/4 rear that came out in 72.
2.24, 2.45, 2.72 and up. Yep, those low ratios and the big car wouldn't fall out of a tree.
Think that mod is more for high rpm endurance engine maybe super high rpm drag.
My cousin stock car would hit 7000 rpm on the track with stock oil system no damage over several seasons, lots on here rev well into mid/high 6000's without the mod don't hear any complaints.
Or the fact that the 400 was probably lucky to have 7:1 squeeze, it was the best engine Mopar ever built that had no balls...
The crank is the first to get oil. It sounds like the rod bearings need more. THey usually reduce oil to the top side because it isn't need there as much. IF you rpm a Mopar you need some improvements. 6-8000 rpm. All engines do.
I like your idea and build. Mine would be a little different since it would be for a Dakota that would be used as a truck occasionally. Would start with a zero deck build either with stock pistons or kb167 iirc. Since I have them I would use a set of NZ eqs with good valve job and Hughes springs. Spitballing it would wind up at about 10 to 1 compression or so. Probably would use one of the two smallest Hughes 5.9 cams or Oregon regrind 210 or so duration. Stock rockers are fine.. Have a set of Mopar performance mid length headers for it so I would use them. Probably would keep the OBD 1 injection and ignition along with the kegger. Maybe 275 hp and 50ft lbs or so over stock Not a rocket but lots of fun still in the dak and decent mileage to boot. Might even commit sacrilege and use a 4.10 8.8 rear since the dak has a 518.
360 says hold my beer.
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