I f*in hate this car.

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I'm 29 and have a few Mopars and I know for a fact that '76 Mopars do not have points.
Mopars have had optional electronic ignition for '72 and by '73 it was standard.
My dad has a '76 Feather Duster and it is an original 80k mile car=Electronic ignition...
 
I've seen plenty of people put points in place of a lean burn for it's simplicity but they forgot the ballast resistor and fried points continuosly,hard starting when hot,crappy gas mileage just to name a few
I'm 29 and have a few Mopars and I know for a fact that '76 Mopars do not have points.
Mopars have had optional electronic ignition for '72 and by '73 it was standard.
My dad has a '76 Feather Duster and it is an original 80k mile car=Electronic ignition...
 
I mean this with the utmost sincerity, and I am not being "that guy". If you have severe fibromyalgia, chronic pain, and leaning over your car kills your back, then a 1976 (ANY MAKE) automobile is not for you. We're talking about a 35 year old car you are using as a daily driver.

In the meantime, you need to chill, and let some of the guys on here help you.
 
I don't think the rotor is on the dist shaft correctly. Pull it off again, and look inside. You'll see the tang that has to fall into the notch in the dist shaft. Line them up by eye, then, as you push down (sometimes quite a bit) twist the rotor until it drops down all the way. Once you've proven the rotor is on correctly and fully seated on the dist shaft, reinstall the cap.
I dunno what points you're unsticking if it's an electronic ignition.

Hope this helps.
Try to remain calm.

George

Yeah I'm thinking about smoking (not cigarettes) before I take a look at my car tomorrow. I can't deal with the anxiety of knowing I don't have a dime to fix this damned thing and I need it on the road. I'm thinking the rotor probably isn't all the way in there.

sounds to me like a guy extremely frustrated and I know we have all been there at some time in our life. Be it a car problem, house ,or even personal problem. sometimes we have to vent and the last thing we would need is some one aggravating the situation. Guess this would be the time to help,kinda thought this site was all about. JMO

Moe

You hit the nail on the head. I'm at my breaking point with my life and things will get easier when I get full time status at my job in 2 weeks, but I get paid bi-weekly and I won't have extra money for a month. I'm struggling mightily right now and having my car do this to me right now is the last thing I need. At least I have this Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tuesday off so I can at least try to figure out wtf is wrong with it.

well, i only respoded to your own words. you said even changing the oil has caused you hassle...?
if you are complaining about how hard it was to change the oil, then maybe this is not the car for you. that is all i am saying.
then you are complaing about it being built so long ago!. you knew that before you bought it!
HERE IS MY POINT. ON ONE HAND, YOU ARE GRIPING ABOUT GETTING THE DIST. CAP BACK ON, AND ON ANOTHER HAND YOU SAY HOW BROKE YOU ARE, AND THEN ONCE AGAIN, YOU SAY HOW YOU ARE TRYING TO SCRAPE UP THE MONEY TO BUY EFI FOR THE CAR!,. ARE YOU NUTS? WHAT DO YOU NEED EFI ON A CAR THAT WAS MADE WHEN JIMMY CARTER WAS PRESIDENT...................... SEE MY POINT?

Because I'm extremely sentimental about the car. I had my wedding pictures taken in, on and around the car. I meant to say HEI, not EFI.

The carb has fowled your plugs or your coil is in need of replacing maybe
If my old car stopped running I bet I can figure out what is wrong and fix it myself..
Now if I had a Volvo that just quit running I would be looking at spending a months pay just to have it diagnosed and replace a part or parts to make it run again.. JMO

when it ran did it run good ?
if not what was it doing ?

See I lived, eat, breathed, crapped, sweat and bled Volvo 240s for years. I know what's wrong with those cars before anyone does. But yes some of the parts (Like the air mass meter.) are very expensive.

I honestly have no idea if my car is HEI or not. When I took the dist. cap and rotor off, I noticed there was a phillips head screw holding something metal in. I was too petrified to go any deeper to see if my car has points for pure fear of really screwing something up.

I would say the car hasn't run reliably since June. Since then it's been doing this random crank and no start B.S. and has been progressively getting worse and worse. Sometimes the car will run great for 3 weeks and then after it sits for a day or two it won't run. I had posted this previously a month or so ago and when I was checking resistance on my ignition coil, I heard this *tick* and I instinctively knew to start the car up and *pouf* it started right up. Members on here told me that it sounds like my points are sticking which lead me to believe that I have points on my car.
 
sell the mopar. save the $$ for an emergency fund. deal with the volvo and get your life back on track. you don't have the resources to be playing with anything that takes $$ from food, housing and utilities.
good luck
 
Too bad you live a state away. Give me three hours and $80(for the pertronics) and I'll have that thing running sweet. Especially if you have that crap lean burn carburation system.
 
I mean this with the utmost sincerity, and I am not being "that guy". If you have severe fibromyalgia, chronic pain, and leaning over your car kills your back, then a 1976 (ANY MAKE) automobile is not for you. We're talking about a 35 year old car you are using as a daily driver.

In the meantime, you need to chill, and let some of the guys on here help you.

I know you do. That's why I almost sold it a few months ago when it was running great because I wanted another Volvo 240 again. With my condition, working on a 240 doesn't aggrevate it because I know every imaginable shortcut. But I let sentimentality get the best of me and I passed up $1600 for the thing because "I was going to restore it. It only needs a new headliner, window seals and minor tinkering here and there."

Trust me, I'm regretting it dearly right now.
 
Under your hood do you see one of these, This one is blue, but they are orange, black and chrome, This is the mopar electronic system.
 

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When it started running bad did you see black smoke when you revved it up or kicked it down to passing gear ?.
 
Do you have a friend with a dodge that has a coil on it you can try ?
It almost sounds like your ECU is failing the blue box in the picture I posted.
 
sell the mopar. save the $$ for an emergency fund. deal with the volvo and get your life back on track. you don't have the resources to be playing with anything that takes $$ from food, housing and utilities.
good luck

One problem - the Volvo is my wife's car....She works during the day and I work during the night. I want to sell the car before I move back to Rhode Island in June of 2012 because I'd rather have a Volvo - even if it's old.
And you're right...I'm not going to eat just because my car needs something...That's stressful...I mean think about it - there's something wrong with your car...Instantaneously you think "Oh ****, this is going to interfere with my food,shelter and utilities." *BOOM* your anxiety goes through the roof and now you have to troubleshoot the car? Lol even the best mechanic is going to screw that one up.

Too bad you live a state away. Give me three hours and $80(for the pertronics) and I'll have that thing running sweet. Especially if you have that crap lean burn carburation system.

Yeah well...Maybe in December you can come visit Vegas.
 
Under your hood do you see one of these, This one is blue, but they are orange, black and chrome, This is the mopar electronic system.

Even though I'm at work, I have a picture of my engine bay on my phone so if something like this ever happened, I can refer to that picture. Yes I have one. It's near the washer fluid reservoir.

When it started running bad did you see black smoke when you revved it up or kicked it down to passing gear ?.

Oh man I honestly don't remember...I think it pushed out a tiny bit of smoke when I 1st started it...But don't quote me on that.

Do you have a friend with a dodge that has a coil on it you can try ?
It almost sounds like your ECU is failing the blue box in the picture I posted.

I have no friends out here. I honestly don't know anybody out here, nor have I really wanted to. Everybody I meet out here has something about them that makes me extremely uncomfortable. (Example: Extra-marital affairs, drug problems, drama, drama, drama.)
 
... Remember - you can always tune a piano, but you can't tunafish.


I have that on vinyl
icon7.gif
 
If you have a chrome one it could have been replaced, if it loses ground or just got loose this will be a problem, it must have a tight and clean ground.
Pull a spark plug and let's see what it looks like when you have time, check for the normal things like loose wires on the coil.
When you walk out to test a few things crank it over a few times with the breather off and see if it is pushing to much gas after your fuel pump gets pressure up to the carb this can be as simple as just removing your air and full mixture adjustment screws and spaying some carb cleaner inside and then put the tuning screw back in all the way, not to tight but just bottom them out and then back them out 2 full turns.
Fowled plugs can be doing all of this, and I am sure you know that carb is doing it if not a week spark. Gap your plugs and clean them, and give this a try.
 
If you have a chrome one it could have been replaced, if it loses ground or just got loose this will be a problem, it must have a tight and clean ground.
Pull a spark plug and let's see what it looks like when you have time, check for the normal things like loose wires on the coil.
When you walk out to test a few things crank it over a few times with the breather off and see if it is pushing to much gas after your fuel pump gets pressure up to the carb this can be as simple as just removing your air and full mixture adjustment screws and spaying some carb cleaner inside and then put the tuning screw back in all the way, not to tight but just bottom them out and then back them out 2 full turns.
Fowled plugs can be doing all of this, and I am sure you know that carb is doing it if not a week spark. Gap your plugs and clean them, and give this a try.

Mmmm I just thought of something else...Since my hands were so damned shakey today because of how stressed out I was and anxiety ridden, and when I pulled off the rotor and tried to put it back on, I might've spun the distributor which of course would mean now the rotor isn't on TDC. Isn't there a trick to bringing it back to TDC that would involve removing a spark plug from cylinder #1 and sticking a flat head screwdriver down the hole and spinning the distributor until the flat head is pushed up as far as the cylinder will go? It's been a long, long time since I had to do a TDC adjustment.
 
Under your hood do you see one of these, This one is blue, but they are orange, black and chrome, This is the mopar electronic system.

memike i know your trying to help...

but for ease of install and a great product i have to recommend the Pertronix Ignitor II

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PNX-91361A/

it is a two wire hook up, no splicing, just bolt in and gap it...

hey where do you live in vegas? i can have my friend come buy and get here fixed for you... i would if i was not in Phx AZ
 
memike i know your trying to help...

but for ease of install and a great product i have to recommend the Pertronix Ignitor II

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PNX-91361A/

it is a two wire hook up, no splicing, just bolt in and gap it...

hey where do you live in vegas? i can have my friend come buy and get here fixed for you... i would if i was not in Phx AZ

North Las Vegas...5 minutes off interstate 15 and a stone's throw away from the Cannery off of Craig road.
 
I pull the #1 plug out and put my finger on the plug hole until you feel the compression stroke starting, then I use a straw not a screw driver and turn the engine by hand till you see the straw stop rising, This is top dead center in your power stroke, remember there is an exhaust stroke that comes to the top, that is not the stroke you want on these 4 stroke engines..

I agree with 805moparkid 100%, But he said he has 0 cash 805moparkid.
 
I pull the #1 plug out and put my finger on the plug hole until you feel the compression stroke starting, then I use a straw not a screw driver and turn the engine by hand till you see the straw stop rising, This is top dead center in your power stroke, remember there is an exhaust stroke that comes to the top, that is not the stroke you want on these 4 stroke engines..

I agree with 805moparkid 100%, But he said he has 0 cash 805moparkid.

Oh gosh how the hell am I gonna feel the difference between the power and exhaust stroke with my finger ? Is there a certain noticeable difference?

Yeah that would help a crapton....If I had money.
 
Oh gosh how the hell am I gonna feel the difference between the power and exhaust stroke with my finger ? Is there a certain noticeable difference?

Yeah that would help a crapton....If I had money.

On the exhaust stroke (the wrong one you will not feel air coming out the plug hole, on the compression stroke it will push air out past your finger, you will fell it, But if you did not pull the distributor ( and it don't sound like you did) all you will have to do is bring your trimming mark on your balancer to your trimming marker and start there timing it, do you have a timing light, if not just move your distributor a few degrees at a time till you hear it try and start and set it the best you can. But remember, pull a couple plugs out and see if they are all black and gas fowled. I remember not putting the rotor button on all the way, after putting it on turn the rotor button by hand and make sure it tries and turns the distributor shaft :thumblef:
 
The ECU is probably gone. They fail at the drop of a hat. At least with points you could file them and get the thing to run so I don't think electronic ignition is the great improvement everybody talks it up to be.
 
Patience and enjoying it is the point, a chance to slow down and get old school.
My car messed with me at every chance.
I chalked it up to the car wanting to know if I am worthy of being the new owner.
Some cars are like an unbroken horse, just gotta ride em out to reap the rewards.
I can totally trust my dart, anytime anywhere now.


BE NICE OR BE SILENT < in cap"s so now i"m yelling rudely...and if it has points or electronic ignition it is supposed to have a ballast resistor so start there,my duster had an intermittant problem and it turned out to be the coil but it still needs an ballast resistor and especially with points it needs one
 
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