I think i broke rear main bearing

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illrad91

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I was bolting it in and I noticed it kept going and when I took it off it was cracked. What are my options idk even know how to replace or where to get this part or what the proper name is for this part

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Those 2 bolts will let you remove the cap and a cap should be easy to get but I think that the block will have to be align honed and new bearings.
 
So I'm tucked? What if I jb weld it and rethread just so it could catch or should I leave that bolt off? Does that mean I can't start the motor because that's what I was gonna try to do next
 
illrad91 said:
So I'm tucked? What if I jb weld it and rethread just so it could catch or should I leave that bolt off? Does that mean I can't start the motor because that's what I was gonna try to do next
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I wouldn't use jb weld on a major engine component regardless.
 
www.forabodiesonly.com

340 rear main cap

I pulled the motor and transmission on my duster (transmission needed a rebuild) and was getting ready to replace the rear main and found one of the oil pump bolt holes is cracked. Any recommendations on where to find a replacement cap? I’ll post in the WTB section but thought I’d show some...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
BTW, it there a heli coil in the other hole. Was this engine apart before? That crack may have been like that from previous person. Not making sure the oil pump is flush before tightening can cause that
 
luvmopars said:
BTW, it there a heli coil in the other hole. Was this engine apart before? That crack may have been like that from previous person. Not making sure the oil pump is flush before tightening can cause that
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Idk I took it off to put the new oil catcher pump but I think i tightened it too much by accident man I'm not mechanically inclined for this guys please help I don't want to take that part off
 
luvmopars said:
BTW, it there a heli coil in the other hole. Was this engine apart before? That crack may have been like that from previous person. Not making sure the oil pump is flush before tightening can cause that
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I don't think that I would use a heli coil for any engine block repair.
 
luvmopars said:
BTW, it there a heli coil in the other hole. Was this engine apart before? That crack may have been like that from previous person. Not making sure the oil pump is flush before tightening can cause that
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The motor was rebuild from what the owner told me
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See if you have enough cap left below the crack to tap some threads and install a stud, oil pump bolt torque is what 35? if not your sol.
 
illrad91 said:
Idk I took it off to put the new oil catcher pump but I think i tightened it too much by accident man I'm not mechanically inclined for this guys please help I don't want to take that part off
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I don't see any way around it
 
The best would be to pull the cap off, take it to a machine shop and see if they can repair do a thread cert in it. This is not something you want to do with a hand drill…
 
The OP said that he was told that the engine was rebuilt before he got it. Myself, I don't see any other way but to pull the engine and fix it right. I don't believe in patch work or doing things half as*ed.
 
I think I fixed it I rethreaded it and put a bigger bolt and it tightened down but I'm not gonna put too much force on it what do you guys think?
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Newbomb Turk said:
Why not. Done correctly the insert is stronger than the parent metal.

You need a new rear main cap which is a PITA to install.
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I've never seen heli coils hold up when used in a stress area. I have a friend who had a block where the machine shop used heli coils in the cylinder head bolt holes, it never held a headgasket after that. The cap is a breeze to install, the problem is having the block align honed
 
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