cruiser
Well-Known Member
If you were going to put the engine into storage for awhile, what would you put in the cylinders? Fogging oil of some sort?
I think I'm missing a nut.
- Thread starter cruiser
- Start date
-
cruiser
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Rusty. What about just dumping some motor oil into the cylinders thru the spark plug holes?
Sure, but motor oil will not stay on the cylinders long term. You can even fill them up, but the oil will seep past the rings.
cruiser
Well-Known Member
Okay, so you just spray the Fluid Film into the cylinders through the spark plug holes?
I would get the engine so the cylinders are straight up vertical on the stand, spray a good amount in each cylinder and rotate the engine a couple of complete turns. That will coat the cylinders good. You need to shake the can well, as it has a rattle ball like spray paint. I would also then flip it upside down and spray the combustion chambers too, then return it to the upright position.
cruiser
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
ESP47
Well-Known Member
It was the threads in the crank that stripped out. I didn't notice it until I already had the engine rebuilt and went out to the garage to periodically turn it over while it sat on the stand. It felt weird, like the bolt was turning a little bit while the crank wasn't. Pulled the bolt out and threads from the crank came out with it. It wasn't 100% stripped but it was enough for me to start using the flex plate to turn it instead.
Previous owner must have hit it with an impact or something because I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I would just leave the inner pulley on since you might want AC some day. To remove it, you must pull off the damper (middle pulley), which could cause problems. If you do remove it, sell it since rare. My 1964 didn't have one so bought an inner pulley from a member here. Took me a while to figure how it must fit. It has a large central hole to fit over the snout of the timing cover.
My engine also didn't have a center bolt, which confused me since I recalled a crank bolt on my 1969 slant. After cleaning all the gunk, I found the tapped hole. Bought a crank bolt and washer for it, I recall same PN as on 426 Hemi engines.
My engine also didn't have a center bolt, which confused me since I recalled a crank bolt on my 1969 slant. After cleaning all the gunk, I found the tapped hole. Bought a crank bolt and washer for it, I recall same PN as on 426 Hemi engines.
philip's66
You may all go to Hell, and I will go to Texas.
Should be a 3/4 -16 tpi thread. Get a grade 8 bolt
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
I was waiting for someone to call it a bolt. LOL I'm not familiar with a 225 or any other 6 banger but what keeps the balancer from flying off without the bolt? I would think you would need the bolt to install it but why then would you remove the bolt afterward?
The balancer is a press-fit. You have to push it on using a long bolt or a piece of all-thread with a couple of nuts on it. The bolt is handy for spinning the engine over but otherwise serves no purpose.
You will be better served if you put a wanted ad in our classified section. You will get a lot more hits there, instead of highjacking someone else's thread that's likely to get buried, plus the moderators will likely delte your post "here", since it's in the wrong place. Just letting you know.
Because you're turning it into a wanted thread. That's not allowed. Just trying to keep you from gettin your hand slapped. lol
Dave999
Well-Known Member
you can strip the crank threads by trying to fit a balancer (aftermarket that is too tight) to the crank by using the retaining bolt to pull it on.
they probably pressed them on in the factory, can't think they'd risk hard steel bolt into nodular iron thread. the forces necessary are gonna huge
balancer tool like this type uses a static stud wound in short spanner tight to the crank thread with thick wall threaded pipe on its protrudeing end, and you wind a big nut and the huge disk with a bearing in the middle, down that pipe to press the balancer onto the crank snout
ATI 918999: Damper Puller & Installer Pro Kit - JEGS
removal just has the big disc the other side of the NUT so you can PULL the thing off
the bolts in the kit fit the pulley mounting holes in the balancer and are the sacrifical parts if it all goes wrong. i.e they are hardware store bolts
numerouse people make them and you can get them for a lot less. think mine is OTC and was about $100.
avoid the 3 claw pullers at all cost.
getting them on and off is still a fight between man and machine, but its controlled agression, rather than busted jaw and split lip. i.e you can take your place at the dinner table with just a light sweat after removing a balancer, and not rasie any suspicion about what you have been up to in the shed....
really is the only way these days to get balancer off and on with no damage to either crank timing cover or balancer. these engines are old and in some cases rusty, or previously maintained by an idiot.
when i stick an engine under the bench for a rainy day project i tend to put some light oil into the bore via the plug hole
put the plugs back in and i take off the rockers. That way lifters valve springs etc are not compressed and each cylinder is pretty much sealed up, from the damp winter air, in my part of the world
kinda works ok as far as i'm concerned
Dave
they probably pressed them on in the factory, can't think they'd risk hard steel bolt into nodular iron thread. the forces necessary are gonna huge
balancer tool like this type uses a static stud wound in short spanner tight to the crank thread with thick wall threaded pipe on its protrudeing end, and you wind a big nut and the huge disk with a bearing in the middle, down that pipe to press the balancer onto the crank snout
ATI 918999: Damper Puller & Installer Pro Kit - JEGS
removal just has the big disc the other side of the NUT so you can PULL the thing off
the bolts in the kit fit the pulley mounting holes in the balancer and are the sacrifical parts if it all goes wrong. i.e they are hardware store bolts
numerouse people make them and you can get them for a lot less. think mine is OTC and was about $100.
avoid the 3 claw pullers at all cost.
getting them on and off is still a fight between man and machine, but its controlled agression, rather than busted jaw and split lip. i.e you can take your place at the dinner table with just a light sweat after removing a balancer, and not rasie any suspicion about what you have been up to in the shed....
really is the only way these days to get balancer off and on with no damage to either crank timing cover or balancer. these engines are old and in some cases rusty, or previously maintained by an idiot.
when i stick an engine under the bench for a rainy day project i tend to put some light oil into the bore via the plug hole
put the plugs back in and i take off the rockers. That way lifters valve springs etc are not compressed and each cylinder is pretty much sealed up, from the damp winter air, in my part of the world
kinda works ok as far as i'm concerned
Dave
Last edited:
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
Thanks Dave999, In do apply oil in the plug holes but never thought of loosening the rocker bars during storage. Then again I never thought it would be 20 years before using the motor again. I do plug (flat wood with drilled wholes to match the studs) up the intake opening after removing the carb and force paper towels in the exhaust ports.
Please not paper towels, they absorb water from the air...
It's a press-fit, the hub of the damper is supposed to be warmed-up, then pressed on with an installer. Once it's on there, it ain't comin' off, the tight press-fit will better transfer crank harmonics to the damper. While it's not needed, the bolt does make it nice to turn the engine over.
There's a better chance the threads were rusted badly, and weren't chased/cleaned proper before someone jammed an installer or capscrew in there, probably wrecking what was left of the threads.
Stabil fogging oil will work great also, same procedure. I freed-up a frozen '62 170 with Evaporust, then fogging oil, once free with the head off it's been covered but outdoors....still good.
SB(longer) & BB(shorter), B engine is the one for Slantys...as long as the threads are chased/cleaned all the way in.
MorganKane
Active Member
Hi, I use this thread to ask.
I needed to remove damper as I am going to change timing chain.
I bought retaining bolt forehand so I can install damper back. Bolt is 3/4-16 , but it only goes in few millimeters to crank and then jams.
Just want to be sure that there is no other threads used except 3/4-16 bolt size? If so, I think somebody or something has broke threads inside crank. It is hard to see inside crank.. I trien lubricating and turning bolt back and forth, but no success.
What options I have left to install damper? Should I bought thread tap and try to clean threads or is it possible to tap damper to place using rubber hammer or so? Or will it damage crankshaft?
Engine is slant six 170, car is valiant V100 -64.
I needed to remove damper as I am going to change timing chain.
I bought retaining bolt forehand so I can install damper back. Bolt is 3/4-16 , but it only goes in few millimeters to crank and then jams.
Just want to be sure that there is no other threads used except 3/4-16 bolt size? If so, I think somebody or something has broke threads inside crank. It is hard to see inside crank.. I trien lubricating and turning bolt back and forth, but no success.
What options I have left to install damper? Should I bought thread tap and try to clean threads or is it possible to tap damper to place using rubber hammer or so? Or will it damage crankshaft?
Engine is slant six 170, car is valiant V100 -64.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
the crank snout is probably full of 50 year old road dirt and rust
id fill it with wd 40 or penetrant oil and leave it for a day or two
then blast it out with air or hose it out
and try again
a tap might be a good idea
the puller/installer i list would get the balancer off. it has a snub nosed fitment for the main pipe that can sit on the end of the crank without damaging threads and a thin one that can fit to the base of the hole if need be
but you need the thread for either method to get a balancer back on
unless you have the motor out
the facilties to stand it on its crank flange in a press
and press on the new balancer
whacking it on with a mallet is going to be a long and awkward process
its not going to be tapping.
in engineering terms i'm not sure what "fit" they used
but its not a slip fit
Plumbers freeze spray on end of crank
graphite powder
and the balancer warmed to say 60-80*C
might help
elastomeric rubber is good to about 130*C but can't say for the bonding agent between it and the balancer parts . so i kept it to a temp that conceivably a balancer might reach on a hot day in a hot car
id fill it with wd 40 or penetrant oil and leave it for a day or two
then blast it out with air or hose it out
and try again
a tap might be a good idea
the puller/installer i list would get the balancer off. it has a snub nosed fitment for the main pipe that can sit on the end of the crank without damaging threads and a thin one that can fit to the base of the hole if need be
but you need the thread for either method to get a balancer back on
unless you have the motor out
the facilties to stand it on its crank flange in a press
and press on the new balancer
whacking it on with a mallet is going to be a long and awkward process
its not going to be tapping.
in engineering terms i'm not sure what "fit" they used
but its not a slip fit
Plumbers freeze spray on end of crank
graphite powder
and the balancer warmed to say 60-80*C
might help
elastomeric rubber is good to about 130*C but can't say for the bonding agent between it and the balancer parts . so i kept it to a temp that conceivably a balancer might reach on a hot day in a hot car
Last edited:
MorganKane
Active Member
Thanks, my main concern is that I use correct bolt as it seems to jam just like bolt with wrong threading (eg 10 to 16).
But if 3/4-16 is correct bolt, I will start with cleaning crank threads and after all get thread tap.
But if 3/4-16 is correct bolt, I will start with cleaning crank threads and after all get thread tap.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
unless there is already the stub of a snapped off bolt in there
how deep is the hole?
or you have been incredibly unlucky and have a crank that had no thread .
Dave
how deep is the hole?
or you have been incredibly unlucky and have a crank that had no thread .
Dave
-
